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Posted (edited)

Hey.

 

I'm buying a Weber at the moment and the guy jetting it asked me what had been done to the engine so he could jet the weber accordingly. I found out and told him that the head had been shaved and ported to 35mm. He asked me if I was sure that there was no cam. I said yes. He said:

It is very strange to port a head and not fit a cam... really defeats the purpose. I would suggest fitting a cam next as it will make a big power improvement.

So, if I get bored of the Weber (which I can see happening), I'm wondering which cam will go well in a 5K? The FAQ says

Tighe 112: 20-60, 260 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (best for 3K engine, most torque in 4k/5k, 6500rpm peak power)

Tighe 104: 25-65, 270 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (best for powerful 4K/5K, alot of torque, 7500rpm peak power)

But by "best for power 4K/5K", does it mean best to produce a powerful 4K/5K or best for an already heavily worked 4K/5K?

 

Also, does the FAQ mean to say that you can get your stock cam ground to match the specs of a Tighe 104? If not, how much would a cam like this be likely to cost?

 

Cheers.

Edited by Mybowlcut
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Posted (edited)
from what i have found out, k series cams can't be brought new anymore so you have to send in your cam to whoever and get them to grind it. pretty sure tighe cams charge $109 to regrind.
Cheers.

 

I thought tighe cams were a brand... haha. Are they a company that grind cams to a certain profile and have names for those profiles (eg. 104)? And they're based in Queensland... would that mean I'd need to take my engine apart, get the cam out, send it to them by courier to have it ground and then sent back to me? Hahaha... this is going to get tricky...

 

On their website under Toyota profiles they only have a listing for a 3k and the FAQ I'm pretty sure says that all K series except sprinters have the same camshaft. Is that right? If so, I could just buy a K series camshaft and send it over or buy one off someone over east.

 

Cheers.

 

Edit: I'm still learning about how the camshaft works within the engine... so they're saying the higher the "advertised duration" a cam has, the longer it is letting fuel/exhaust in/out? Hence the lumpier sound?

 

They say strong midrange is 270 advertised duration and mild is 280... what does this mean?

Edited by Mybowlcut
Posted (edited)
Cheers.

 

I thought tighe cams were a brand... haha. Are they a company that grind cams to a certain profile and have names for those profiles (eg. 104)? And they're based in Queensland... would that mean I'd need to take my engine apart, get the cam out, send it to them by courier to have it ground and then sent back to me? Hahaha... this is going to get tricky...

 

On their website under Toyota profiles they only have a listing for a 3k and the FAQ I'm pretty sure says that all K series except sprinters have the same camshaft. Is that right? If so, I could just buy a K series camshaft and send it over or buy one off someone over east.

 

Cheers.

 

Edit: I'm still learning about how the camshaft works within the engine... so they're saying the higher the "advertised duration" a cam has, the longer it is letting fuel/exhaust in/out? Hence the lumpier sound?

 

They say strong midrange is 270 advertised duration and mild is 280... what does this mean?

 

 

Crow cams ad tighe cams have both told me that new cams are now off the market and they could only do re grinds for any k series. crow cams for $90 and tighe for $109 and i emailed camtech i think it was and they'd do regrinds for $209 :no2:

And yes you'd have to take your cam out or a spare and send it over and they'l have to send it back.

 

Cheers

Edited by toyota_ae71
Posted
Resonably sure you can buy new cams... will confirm next week.

As for which cam, you want to stay mild or it won't be "traffic friendly" or so I hear.

Crow cams ad tighe cams have both told me that new cams are now off the market and they could only do re grinds for any k series. crow cams for $90 and tighe for $109 and i emailed camtech i think it was and they'd do regrinds for $209 :no2:

And yes you'd have to take your cam out or a spare and send it over and they'l have to send it back.

 

Cheers

Cheers guys.

 

Can anyone answer my questions about the duration?

 

Also, which profile would best suit a daily 5K? I wouldn't mind some lumpiness...

Posted
Thats a load of bull, Alex's 5K has my old 4K cam in it!

 

Yep. I don't think there is any difference at all with the 4k and 5k hydro camshafts. As Justin said, I am running a reground 4k one in my 5k and haven't had any problems. Had it reground to a Tighe 104 profile and comes on strong about 4500 and pulls well into 7000 rpm. I wouldn't class it as a very "lumpy" cam, but I think that it is a good size for street driving, whilst giving power up high if you want it.

Posted (edited)

I just rang up Tighe cams and Camshaft Engineering Company and they BOTH said that the spring pre-load changes when you grind the 5K cam. They said that you'd need to account for the pre-load by adding length to the push rods or using adjustable rockers from a 3K...

 

Why has no one (on rollaclub) mentioned this? Surely if people are getting their 5K cams ground they'd be notified of this problem by the company doing the grind... why not let other people know?

Edited by Mybowlcut
Posted
I aint never seen a hydraulic 4K engine, is the cam running in the 5K solid or hydraulic.

 

Matt

 

5K with hydraulic lifters running a reground solid lifter 4K camshaft.

Posted
I just rang up Tighe cams and Camshaft Engineering Company and they BOTH said that the spring pre-load changes when you grind the 5K cam. They said that you'd need to account for the pre-load by adding length to the push rods or using adjustable rockers from a 3K...

 

Why has no one (on rollaclub) mentioned this? Surely if people are getting their 5K cams ground they'd be notified of this problem by the company doing the grind... why not let other people know?

 

 

Lifter Preload. Regrinding a cam to a new profile reduces the lobe centre diameter which in turn means that there is less preload on the lifters. Depending on how much is taken off you shouldn't have a problem with either a solid lifter setup or a hydaulic setup. With solids, you can just adjust the rocker arms to take up what was removed from the cam, but with a hydro setup, you can't adjust anything as the lifters do it for you. As long as a shit load hasn't been taken off the cam, the preload should be fine. It is alot of stuffing around to convert a 5K hydraulic setup to solids and from what I gather, not much of an advantage at all.

 

Search on here and you'll find that people have talked about lifter preload. I know that I had previously made about it. Have a read of this. It is a site that was linked to me by Felix on here, and straightened any misunderstandings I had with what was actually going on with lifter preload.

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