Jono.B Posted November 17, 2008 Report Posted November 17, 2008 Is there anyway to do this its just a wee 10" sub that I want to run till I get a new amp. if so please let me know. like can one bridge the speaker wires from the headunit, I'm running no back speakers at the mo, just front components. Quote
orangeLJ Posted November 19, 2008 Report Posted November 19, 2008 It MAY work, but I doubt the head unit alone would have enough output to make any sort of bass really. You would also have the sub acting like a giant speaker, not playing just bass, but everything. Quote
SLO-030 Posted November 19, 2008 Report Posted November 19, 2008 Yea, it will work. Had a mate running dual 12's off the 50x4 head unit. Id just wait till you can get the amp tho. Quote
trav_555 Posted November 29, 2008 Report Posted November 29, 2008 It MAY work, but I doubt the head unit alone would have enough output to make any sort of bass really. You would also have the sub acting like a giant speaker, not playing just bass, but everything. not true, the amp dosent filter out bass for the subs as you can run speakers off amps personally i wouldnt, just get 6x9's for the rear cause they will go harder than a sub connected directly to the headunit hope that helps mate Quote
Karllos Posted November 30, 2008 Report Posted November 30, 2008 not true, the amp dosent filter out bass for the subs as you can run speakers off amps personally i wouldnt, just get 6x9's for the rear cause they will go harder than a sub connected directly to the headunit hope that helps mate Ah contrare!, there is usually a switch that will filter out bass, mine has 3 positions, one is just music, another is bass and music, then just bass. imagine that each amp would have different options and features. To answer your question it will work but when you consider the power handling capacity of the sub may be 600W where as the Headunit will only put out 50W. So its all relative really. Cheers, Karl. Quote
orangeLJ Posted December 1, 2008 Report Posted December 1, 2008 Low pass, high pass and full pass are what you are referring to with the switches. I really don't get what Trav is on about, sentence structure and some clarity might help.... I'm saying that the sub will not work as intended (assuming most people will only run it via the RCA outlets, and not from a dedicated "sub woofer" outlet from the HU, assuming your headunit has one) actually, now I think about it, you would have to wire the sub up as a SPEAKER, via the LF/LR RF/RR speaker outlets as you couldnt simply run an RCA lead directly to a sub. Which means exactly what I said, it would work as one large conical speaker (anyone for a bunch of 10" speakers?) If anyone is stil thinking about what I wrote think of it this way- Your amp recieves the sound signals via the RCA leads which have "plug" type ends, I'm not 100% but I'm fairly sure these only cary a tiny electrical signal, which the amplifier then changes to a stronger signal, which it then dispatches via the + or - terminals of the outlet side of the amplifier. These are generally "terminal" ends that attach to the amp. The two leads (usually heavy gauge speaker type wire) then run to the sub and can be connected to them in numerous ways. So in order to even "try" to wire it up minus the amp, you have two choices. 1. Hack the ends off a set of RCA leads (you could probably buy a cheap amp for the cost of a decent set of RCAs anyway... so why bother) 2. Jack into the rear speaker wiring and run the sub from the + and - signals that come from the headunit for the speakers, which WILL make the sub run on full pass, this is, effectively, only using it as a large normal speaker. The general use for subs, as you all know, is to fill in the bass areas of sound, leaving the speakers to effectively fill in the midrange. on another note, bass without midrange is useless, so many people have stereos that only have bass, they cram their boots full of subs and massive powered amps, then throw in a couple of "mid price range" 6" or 6x9" speakers and just drive around with the stero duff duffing all day long... Whats the point? Quote
Rolliac Posted December 1, 2008 Report Posted December 1, 2008 Yeah RCA’s just send a signal that’s not amplified. So don’t connect speakers straight to them. Get your self an amp with a low pass filter. Mono block amps are the way to go for subs I believe. Probably get a new one for 2 or 300 bucks maybe less. Quote
Jono.B Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Posted December 2, 2008 So I hooked it up anyway and bridged it over the 2 rear speaker connections and it goes ok, then in the weekend I proceeded to hhok up my amp and in doing so blew its fuse, being so broke I dident have a dollar for a new one I raged placed amp calmly in the garage and drove to the skatepark to give the old bmx a thrashing, will install amp successfully this weekend. Quote
Rolliac Posted December 2, 2008 Report Posted December 2, 2008 How did you blow the fuse? Did you disconnect the battery before install? You might have a spare fuse under the dash in the fuse box. Quote
trav_555 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Posted December 2, 2008 hey orange lj, yea i thought you meant you would get mid and top end out of your sub which you wont i meant that amps arnt just for subs so you can't just get just bass out of them so it would do exactly the same as running through headunit dumb idea to run it through headunit i mean you need amps for decent speakers so you definatly need them for subs later Quote
TheGhost Posted December 3, 2008 Report Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=25373 why post twice? didnt you get the answer over there? low pass: used for bass duties - sub - 20Hz-200-300Hz high pass: used for running og high frequenzy - Tweeters - 200Hz and up full pass: for running coaxial speaker - 4"-6x9" - run all hertz ranges needed amps are for anything speaker wise.... different filter do different things.... running your sub full range is a bad thing.... i had a 10" running full and half the nominal power and cooked it within an hour.... i install for a living and you never do it, no matter what.... and don't bridge channels on your head unit because it brings down the impedence, ie: ohm loading subs are usaully 4 ohms and lower and your standard speaker in usually 8 or 4 dependin on the quality.... deck rca are a 4v signal that the amp processes into sound.... anything else you need to know send me a pm! Edited December 3, 2008 by TheGhost Quote
Jono.B Posted December 4, 2008 Author Report Posted December 4, 2008 1.OK I shall disconnect the sub, 2.I posted twice because I thought it didnt post, it was an accident 3.and I have no Idea how I blew the amp fuse but when I get another one I shall re install the amp. thanks for all the help guys, also any Ideas of somewhere to put the amp in a ke30. ?? I have my 6" fronts boxed on the frnt parcel tray (by passengers feet) pointing down. . cheers Jono Quote
TheGhost Posted December 4, 2008 Report Posted December 4, 2008 under one of the seats? rear on back of rear seats? make amp rack for boot? Quote
sammo[RL] Posted December 5, 2008 Report Posted December 5, 2008 Pop it on the vertical bar that runs along side the fuel tank. On the right side there is plenty of space! Thats where i got mine :yes: Quote
SLO-030 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Posted December 5, 2008 I screwed mine to the side of the box Quote
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