How Do You Change Brake Fluid On A Ke70

[Mybowlcut]

I've got the bottle of fluid ready but I don't know if it's the same brand as what's in there now so I thought I'd change the fluid. I don't wanna pay a mechanic to do it if I can do it myself.

 

So are there any well-known steps to do this?

 

Cheers.

 

Edit: I did have a Gregorys corolla manual but lost it.

Edited November 1, 2008 by Mybowlcut

[Calam05]

bleeding brake fluid is one of the first things i learnt to do, its easy as. i don't have the brain power to write a step by step now but I'm sure someone will help or you can google for it. You will need someone to help you tho, its a 2 man job.

Edited November 1, 2008 by Calam05

[Budowski]

wrote this on here a little while back. same idea as bleeding brakes.

 

"Ok here we go

 

In the engine bay there is a little reservoir bolted to the right hand side of the firewall, which is next to the brake master reservoir make sure both of these have brake fluid upto their maximum levels. If not and if they are dry then there is your 1st problem they need fluid and if they are empty then there will be air in the system which will also cause the problem your experiencing.

 

Next pump the clutch pedal vigeriously say 20 times and then put your head under the dash with a light to see if there are any brake fluid leaks on the shaft leading to the pedal and fire wall inside. If there are leaks then the clutch master will need replacement. Very easy 1 pin with a clip and 1 clutch pipe fitting and 2 bolts to hold the thing to the firewall. Bleeding the brake fluid will come later.

 

Next if that if all ok pump the pedal another 20 times as mentioned. At the front of the grearbox near the starter motor is the other end of the twisty pipe that runs from the clutch master cylinder pipe end to the clutch slave cylinder end. The clutch slave looks like a cast block with a rubbber boot with ribs that connects to the clutch fork. Pull back the rubber ribbed boot to see if there are any leaks from the shaft. If there are leaks this slave cylinder will also need to be replaced, once again very easy 1 pipe fitting and 2 bolts to hold it to the gear box once removed make sure the new slave has a little grease on the end before it mates back upto the clutch fork.

 

Ok now this is very important never over tighten any of the brake pipes of bleed nipples, they are not a load bearing structure so will not need a huff and a puff and groan to tighten, they only need to be fed on by hand and then tightened a nip or two.

 

The bleed nipple is on the slave end once everything is in position and "tightened" fill the clutch resevior to the max and find a small rubber hose or some vucum line to put over the bleed nipple. Put the hose in a 600ml coke bottle right to the bottom fill the bottom with 50ml of brake fluid.

 

Now once these things have been done you can comence bleeding your clutch system, helps a ton if you have a mate who can sit in the drivers seat to pump the clutch pedal while you monitor clutch reservior level and flow from the slave. Open the bleed nipple with hose attached and in bottle as described.

Initally the clutch pedal may go to the floor and not come back up so may need to bring back by hand untill the fluid is flowing say 20 or so pumps and including topping level up during.(may take more than 20 pumps but is a guide)

 

Watch the fluid entering the bottle once it starts to flow during pumping it may be bubbling that is the air mentioned before need all of the air gone and nothing but fluid, so once the bubbles stop as your helper is pumping the pedal and your watching fluid level does not go past minium you can close the bleed nipple off. id repeat the bleed process 3 times to make sure. Do not over tighten the bleed nipple!!.

 

Once all this has been done you should see the clutch slave and fork moving as your helper is pushing down on the clutch pedal, it should more a good 15mm or more.

 

Try that see how you go and this is pretty much the rule of thumb for most hydraulic clutch and brake systems for bleeding and inspection."

 

hope this helps.

Edited November 1, 2008 by Budowski