Car Rim Centre Hub Tollerence

[camerondownunder88]

Hi,

In the process of mucking around with a set of mags for me KE15 sprinter and need some information.

 

Now I know it is illegal to run rims that have a larger center hole than what your hub does. As it needs to be contacting this to transfer load though the hub and not the bolts attaching the wheel to the hub.

 

Now the question is the center hole in a car rim what is the size difference/ industry standard for fit. EG is the hub on the car 60mm then the wheel 60.01 or a tighter fit or a looser fit.

 

I'm looking into getting some inserts machined up for my rims and pressed into the rim to reduce the hole size but I need to work out a good size for the inserts to be machined to. As if the hole is to small the rim will lock on when I go to remove it if it is to loose well kinda pointless having the insert as it wouldn't touch the hub.

 

Reason I'm going to this trouble is the rims are fairly special so I want to use them rain hail or shine so just searching for information on wheel fitment first.

 

Cheers

Cameron

[Redwarf]

If they're my old rims, I ran them for 15 years as they are, and they would be about as loose as you have them now. Both myself and the previous owner (They were on a 20 Club Car) perpetrated evil with extreme prejudice and never had issues. Nobody ever looked twice.

Edited October 27, 2008 by Redwarf

[rolla_boy70]

when i bought my sigma wheels for my KE70 the inner hub diametre for these wheels where 80mm i think. So my dad machined up 4 rings for the centre of these wheels to fit the corolla hub, down to 60mm that where 19mm thick so that they fitted into the centre of the wheel and held them centre on to the hub but did not stick out past the back face of the wheel.

 

So when i bolted the wheel onto the rotor/drum the wheels where still touching the rotor and this little ring was not acting like a wheel spacer.

 

heres a pick of my wheels you may see the aluminum ring in the centre

Edited October 27, 2008 by rolla_boy70

[camerondownunder88]

^^^ EXACTLY WHAT I'm DOING :D

 

Can you ask your dad what tolerance he made these to.

 

I plan to do the same so they fit nice and neat in the rim paint them to suit exact rim color and then it is safer and will kinda be hidden so for the RWC no questions will hopefully be asked.

 

 

Cheers

Cameron

[styler]

you know theres a whole lot of ready made spigot rings or hub locating rings ads some people call them,

in many different id/od sizes. id see if there are some avaliable to suit first, they come out in metal and hard plastic.

hard plastic doesnt seize on there and metal ones are stronger and don't crack so take your pick.

they are generally a press fit into the rim but not a tight one (a push fit i suppose) and are a slide fit over the spigot.

best to take the wheel and axle in if you can't drive in for a really good fit. maybe use an antiseize to help

to remove the wheel if its tight fit.

 

performancewheels.com.au have a large range of plastic spigot rings and a database to match up your spigot size.

i havent sussed it out much but ebay or a big tyre shop may be able to help you if they are a one of the more

popular generic oversize hub holes as a lot of aftermarket wheels are, else if they are an odd oversize its going to

be a custom set at about $200 i would say. i would get them to make the rings to suit, some places machine the od

in the wheel to suit an off the shelf ring and then if if has the correct id its ok or they then machine the id as well to suit,

gets expensive compared to a spigot ring that suits in the first place!

Edited October 28, 2008 by styler

[camerondownunder88]

Hi,

Styler you always seem to have an awesome answer to any problem.

 

Ill Google the rings ASAP. I think I will sway to the metal rings and get some anti seize on them and use them. Not a fan of plastic.

 

I was going to use metal I got from work and the work machine to make them but this could save a lot of time.

 

But out of interest I found a stock KE15 wheel 12inch uses a 0.100mm clearance on the spigot. So that leaves 0.050mm clearance radial on the spigot so if your making some this would be a good fit to achieve I would imagine.

 

Cheers

Cameron

[irokin]

I think I will sway to the metal rings and get some anti seize on them and use them. Not a fan of plastic.

 

Really Cam all the rings do is center the wheel when you do the nuts up, they take absolutely zero real load under normal operating conditions. I have plastic ones and they show no signs of any pressure deformation what so ever. If they were taking the load of a 1300kg car on each corner (358kg on each of the fronts using a 55/45 weight distribution) that <1cm wide strip of plastic would be absolute mince meat. I believe they provide relief from small vibrations to stop the nuts from undoing themselves along with locating the rim centrally (another vibration solution). I've seen hubcentric aftermarket rims snap studs off because the nuts weren't done up sufficiently tight. That guy was very lucky that the rims were hubcentric because it stopped one of two rims shearing ALL of the studs and flying off on its merry way.

 

As for plastic vs metal, I like the plastics because I'm constantly changing rims and they're easier to get off. I don't really see any overwhelming positives that would make me want to use alloy rings. That said I am moving to factory hubcentric rims for track use.

[Jason]

Just throwing this out there.

 

But wouldn't it make more sense for the wheels to take the load under friction than through the studs? Ie the bolts are done so tight that the studs take none of the car load.

[camerondownunder88]

MM good info there Irokin.

 

Something to consider. But rang a few tire shops in Ipswich and 4 plastic ones are sub $20 rang so should be able to find a set on the weekend.

 

The main reason I want to use them is A) center the wheel and B) The stud holes on these rims are slightly out of round now due to there previous life and that so I want them to sit straight on the car again as with no spacers the rims slopped about and were just on plain wrong due to holes all wanting to push the rims in a different position.

 

But As Rob said they never fell off his car when he had them so I should be right just a bit of locktie in the nuts and I'm off.

 

But another good thing about these rims there real magnesium so light as so not as much force on the studs as before with stock heavier steel rims.

 

Cheers

Cameron

[philbey]

Just throwing this out there.

 

But wouldn't it make more sense for the wheels to take the load under friction than through the studs? Ie the bolts are done so tight that the studs take none of the car load.

 

Thats exactly the point, the studs will just be in tension.

[irokin]

Just throwing this out there.

 

But wouldn't it make more sense for the wheels to take the load under friction than through the studs? Ie the bolts are done so tight that the studs take none of the car load.

 

Makes sense to me. Just as long as we can remove this misconception that the spigot carrys the load. What an absolute load of tripe.

[orangeLJ]

There is merit in the idea that the hub takes some form of weight in cornering forces.

 

As with all things, the metal on the studs have a certain amount of flex or a tolerance to flex. Overtime (with most guys on here running reasonably old corollas) they will develop stress fractures in the metals, that under most circumstances, do not have any effect of daily driving. But bring in heavy cornering, increased load on the studs etc. Even if they don't break, they are still moving backwards and forwards in small amounts as the give in to the forces being applied.

 

Even if it is infinitely small, the hub fitting tight (via way of a hub spacer like being discussed) it helps to stop any increased movement when the studs are placed under stress.

 

provides peace of mind when cornering hard and asking youself "how fatigued are my wheel studs"