Camber / Caster Settings Ke20

[ausca62]

Can anybody help with frontend settings for Ke20. I have adjustable lower control arms and are running Avon race tyres. The car is strictly a track car running a locked diff and i am trying to dial out some of the understeer. I am currently using 2.5 Deg Caster -2 deg Camber Any help mutch appreciated. Cheers :D

[Redwarf]

In Tarmac trim, -3 camber, and about 4 deg castor. Machined the castor rods to tap more thread on, and wound them forward as far as they can go til they just missed the front guards. You will never eliminate it, but it helps.

[ausca62]

thanks mate ive got it booked in Wednesday morning at the local tyre joint and racing on Sunday so i will see how it goes.

[ket000]

A bit off topic but how can i get caster out of my stock ke70 suspension?? i have xt130 lca's thats the only mod

 

thanks

[styler]

redwarfs on the money, also toe out will make the car turn harder into corners as opposed to toe in which

promotes straight line steering. but its the balanced combination of these factors including suspension which

allow road holding and handling. theres some great books on suspension design and theories, great if

you have an adjustable setup. a pyrometer is handy too for different track circuits to measure tyre temp

across the width of the tread.

 

check out camber, caster, toe as the basics

then kingpin inclination and kingpin offset, also known as SAI - steering axis inclination and scrub radius respectively

then roll centres

then suspension, like rates and travel etc

then theres plenty more after that...

[Redwarf]

I don't think you'll get alot more than 2.5deg castor without modding the arms. See how you go. I ran 0 toe on a rally car, you may want to run a few mm toe out as Styler suggested.

 

At some point really soon you're going to run out of adjustment on your tie rods as well. I replaced mine with longer ones off some random Corona that was in my local wreckers.

 

Good luck and let us know how you go. Are you running at the hillclimb down there? I used to frequent the old Morwell one on occasions about 10 years back. :D

[coln72]

Would of been longer ago than that Rob..........

 

I relocated the lower control arm mounts on my 20 (moved out about 25mm and up slightly), toe out and as much castor as I could wind on. It wasn't so bad. Sorry I can not be more specific but it was more a suck it and see exercise for me. As Rob said you will never get rid of it but you can get it to a point where you can drive around it.

 

I was also running moddified (softened) rear springs as well so this may of affected it as well :D

[ausca62]

I don't think you'll get alot more than 2.5deg castor without modding the arms. See how you go. I ran 0 toe on a rally car, you may want to run a few mm toe out as Styler suggested.

 

At some point really soon you're going to run out of adjustment on your tie rods as well. I replaced mine with longer ones off some random Corona that was in my local wreckers.

 

Good luck and let us know how you go. Are you running at the hillclimb down there? I used to frequent the old Morwell one on occasions about 10 years back. :)

yeah mate I used to run at Morwell but the old track has gone now. Swallowed up by the opencut mine. We have a new track at Moe now. Here is a link to the new track if you are interested. Cheers Paul. http://smokie.ws/Track2/index.htm

Edited October 28, 2008 by ausca62

[ausca62]

Got allignment done today. Caster at 5 deg Camber at -3 deg Toe out 0 Just have to mod the front guards so the tyres miss when I turn. Will add a few pics . Thanks every one who contributed. Cheers Paul. :)

[Redwarf]

THAT'S the shit we're talking about, Australia!

 

Nice lower arms, too. :)

 

Let us know how it goes.

 

R

[irokin]

In my opinion you don't want zero toe on a circuit. The idea behind toe is that it preloads the tyre so that when you turn the wheel you don't have to take up the slack in the tyre. You'll probably find the car wanders and doesn't turn in as sharp (then again with the other suspension changes it will probably feel better anyway). I'd be heading more for 1deg toe out but you're going to have to experiment with that.

[ausca62]

In my opinion you don't want zero toe on a circuit. The idea behind toe is that it preloads the tyre so that when you turn the wheel you don't have to take up the slack in the tyre. You'll probably find the car wanders and doesn't turn in as sharp (then again with the other suspension changes it will probably feel better anyway). I'd be heading more for 1deg toe out but you're going to have to experiment with that.

Now I am confused :) With 1deg toe out it would load the tyre to the outside in a straight line. When turning, say right, most of the steering is done by the outside (left) front tyre, Hens the neg camber. In this situation the tyre would have to unload and reload to the inside before any turn in could be achieved. Is there something I am missing or am I barking up the wrong tree. thanks Paul.

[ausca62]

Boy what a differance a bit of neg camber and caster can make. I picked up 3.4 seconds a lap on a 1 min 10 sec lap. Next i want to get my front struts rebuilt. I have koni's, any one know somebody in VIC that does them. thanks. Paul