warrenfromtonny Posted September 18, 2008 Report Posted September 18, 2008 hi I'm the proud new owner of a ke11. no rust (with the exception of the spare tyre well) and perfect interior. the only catch is that it has been sitting around for a while unmoved. as a result the wheel cylinders are all shagged and the brakes have never been replaced, (only 57xxx miles done since 1970). so I'm doing a brake and stud upgrade. the original fronts are drum and i am in the process of aquiring some ke70 gear. to my understanding the whole assembly (wheel hub, rotor, ke11 bearings) bolts straight up to my original stub axle, is this the case or is there a difference in bearing sizes? and the caliper should bolt up if i get my hands on a ke55 backing plate with a m10x1.25 hole tapped into it, true? just need some reassuance as the last thing i want is to get everything off and find out i'm missing something also planning n attacking the stud pattern on the back end. i've got an original jap diff (banjo) and from what i've researched all i need is some ke30 axles (4x114.3) out of the same make (banjo), and these also need to be shortened, to stop them hitting in the middle. just wondering if this can be overcome by making a spacer between the axle housing and axle end cap. or would this be overkill and probly just result in scrubbing on the inner gaurd? and does anyone know by how much each axle needs to be shortened by? any help or info on a better way to go about this would be greatly appreciated cheers matt Quote
Felix Posted September 18, 2008 Report Posted September 18, 2008 The ke30 rear axles won't work in the ke1x housing. The offset from the wheel bearing to the hubface (where the wheel bolts up) is all wrong, as the ke1x have narrower rear drums. The backing plates for the drum brakes also have a different mounting pattern, so can't be easily swapped over.. plus then you would have to modify the handbrake cable setup. You could always swap in a later diff, though you would need to move the leaf spring mountings inwards. The later diffs are wider, which could cause problems depending on the wheel offset and tyre size you choose to run. Handbrake cables and mounting need to be addressed. If you need the later stud pattern, a possibility may be to get the rear axles/drums redrilled. A decent machine shop might be able to weld and redrill them. I've looked into this in the past, even to the point of sliding ke30 axles into my ke15 diff housing myself. I gave up on the idea and just settled for the stock PCD with stock rear drums, but with ke20 front hubs and ke30 discs. It stops great with sticky 185/60's on 13x5.5 mazda 626 RWD rims allround which fit the car perfectly and don't scrub even with a load on. Quote
philbey Posted September 18, 2008 Report Posted September 18, 2008 Redrilling should be fairly easy I would have thought, but I've not heard of it being done. Give it a shot and let us know! Quote
warrenfromtonny Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Posted September 23, 2008 sorry about the late reply yeah thanks for all the info. think ill look a bit harder for a ke20 wheel hub and get that mated up to the ke70 gear. for now anyway! but i'd like to find some 15inch rims and they aren't easy to come by in 4x110. thanks again and i'll post any results i find, along with all the mistakes i make. cheers matt Quote
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