5k Trouble

[Red_rocket]

Hi all, i am currently running a 5k turbo with an 4k-e Efi setup in my KE55 Coupe, i have a microtech computer system which is fuel and ignition which obviously runs everything. but the problem is i can get it to run, it seams like its only running on 2 cylinders, i have replaced the spark plugs, i would replace the leads but no one has them? anyway I'm thinking it maybe dizzy problems, i have placed the engine at top dead center and aligned the cap to position 1, i have tried moving the dizzy 180 deg. but that doesn't even want to try and fire! its all electronic but I'm stuck.. and its beyond me! if anyone has any suggestions that would be fantastic! :y:

 

Cheers, Gerard

[Sidewinder]

if you are after leads, K series leads are cheap as chips genuine, so toyota should be able hook you up

[Red_rocket]

Thanks mate ill have to look into it and see if they can fix me up!

[beerhead]

What CAS are you running? 4K or 5K is no good, you'll need something much later model, 7K-E ftw. If its a 4KE dizzy, it'll be batch fire you can grind 3 of the 4 prongs off to produce a single home pulse with a 24 tooth speed signal if the ecu is in sequential mode. Was the ecu bought coded to suit the 4K in batch fire or sequential? Do you have a handset? what RPM is is saying at crank? If you're getting around 2400rpm it'll just need some dizzy grinder love :y: I've had the same problem running bigport 4AGE's on smallport configuration.

[Taz_Rx]

You can get bosch super sport plug lead sets from SCA for like $20. :y:

 

We need a bit more info on your setup to help you out mate.

 

Has it been running befor with no issues or is this a new setup?

As Beerhead said, what is you input trigger? Electronic dizzy or CAS?

Are you running a dizzy cap still or 4x coil packs or 2x waste spark coils?

Are you actually running an ignitor? or does the dizzy have an internal ignitor?

 

Also chuck up a pic of your engine bay if you can!! :y:

I also have a turbo 5k with 7ke injection on it.

[Red_rocket]

Well ok.. the ecu is running in sequential, and yes i am running an ignitor, the dizzy is a 5k electronic dizzy with the dizzy cap, and running single coil.

 

The motor did run when it was carby, but had a few troubles with the turbo blowing fuel out the seals...and i found a fuel injection system and thought there goes that problem...

 

I have attached some photos of the engine bay if this helps... its quiet messy as i haven't fully finished it yet! :y:

 

also what is SCA? sorry :y:

[KE70-from-mt-panorama]

SCA = Super Cheap Auto

[Taz_Rx]

Right, I think your main issue is fuel pressure!!!

It's great to see that you were using a CARBY turbo rising rate fuel pressure reg for the old setup :) , but you cannot use that reg for your EFI setup!!! That reg will have a base pressure of about 4-7psi, when you need a base pressure of 30psi! :y:

 

Get yourself a 1:1 EFI malpassi and you might be good to go.

 

On a plus note - You won't have an issue selling the reg you have on this site!! There's a couple of people building carby turbo K's and will need one! PM both Rundell and Murdress_ke55 and ask if either want it. RRP on a new one is about $90.

 

 

Swap reg and come back if you need morer help. :y:

 

Oh and take some more pics of the other side of the engine bay, ie turbo. You running a manifold or j-pipe?

Edited September 15, 2008 by Taz_Rx

[dale72ke20]

Hey,

 

That looks like my old injection, was the rocker cover painted red when you got it ????

 

If so, good to see it going to a new home and being used.

 

Turbo eh, I wish. my 5k is NA and budget means it will remain so :y:

 

 

Dale

[Red_rocket]

Ok cheers guys, ive removed the regulator and that hasn't changed anything.. its got me buggered whats going on! haha :y:

 

And yes the EFI setup i bought painted red when i got it!

 

here are some more pictures... :y:

[Budowski]

if you are after leads, K series leads are cheap as chips genuine, so toyota should be able hook you up

i ordered a set through sprints, top gun had to make em so i was told. nice blue finish

[Taz_Rx]

Removed or replaced (with EFI reg) the regulator???

 

Also have a look at the fuel system write up I did here.....

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=17418

 

And make sure it is connected correctly. It needs to be in the return line, not the feed like the other reg you have.

 

And FFS dude, go and buy yourself a long enough coil lead, might make a big difference!!! :)

[Taz_Rx]

Oh and another thing - Your air temp sensor needs to be after the turbo and intercooler. ;)

 

Where you have it now basically just tell you the atmospheric temp. Your ECU needs to know what temp the air entering the throttle body is after its been heated by a turbo, and cooler by your FMIC. So put it in that blue bit of pipe instead. :)

[Red_rocket]

Well with the regulator situation, i have taken off the regulator that isnt required, so my fuel set up goes.

 

From fuel tank though external fuel pump(no surge tank yet) into the fuel rail, then there is a small

regulator at the end of the rail and then the fuel line goes from there back into the fuel tank

 

And i have got some new leads on the way! :)

 

Also thanks for letting me know about the Air temp sensor, will change that shortly

Also will that make a difference to what i am doing? like will the computer get a different reading?

and maybe help the car run better?

[Taz_Rx]

The stock regulator should be fine for getting you running (it fine how it is now) - NA only though. The vacuum line to it give it a vaccum reference, but you'll need a rising rate reg to give extra fuel pressure when on boost.

So for the purpose of getting you running the fuel system is now all good. ;)

 

You might be suprised just how much difference that 1 coil lead can make!!! :)

 

The air temp sensor location should be making a huge difference now just to get it running. When it is running and boosting the turbo will be heating to air. Hence causing tuning issues as the ECU thinks its cooler.

 

What ECU are you actually using?

 

Next, because you're running sequential injection, did you just wire up the injectors: Out 1 - cylinder 1, output 2 - cylinder 2 etc?????

Because you need to do it in the firing order!!! ie: output 1 - cyl 1, output 2 - cyl 3, output 3 - cyl 4, output 4 - cyl 2.