Falken_KE30 Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 hahahaha fun as hell i guess.. :( So any recomendations on turbo?, last i seen you ya said the CT12 was running outta puff, even too small for a 3k??? :D can't really do anything till i decide on what turbo to use.. :)
Taz_Rx Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 yeah too small for a 3k still, they flow a litre of ags on a 1g! get anything from an engine of 1500cc to 2000cc. so a nissan turbo such as an s13/14 t25, t28, exa or ET turbo. a subaru 2 litre turbo, ie tdo4 (which is going on the other launy 4k i spoke about) or to stick with toyota stuff even something like a ct16 off a 3tgte- there a guy in hobart with one for sale. step 1: get a turbo.... step 2: get a j-pipe made up.... step 3: everything else!!! :)
Falken_KE30 Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 (edited) Yeah wikid as, will start looking around. Got the KE70 manifold now, just gotta get J pipe when turbo is chosen. How much will the J pipe set me back, i knwo you got yours for nothen you lucky &%#&! Also, why not put the tubo beside the block like most cars?..cause to much heat or not enough room?, Is there much hassle having it where the battery is? Edited June 27, 2006 by Falken_KE30
Taz_Rx Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 would probably be looking a around $100-$150 for a decent mandrel steam pipe J. obviously this could be cheaper if it was press bent or made from mild steel, but it you're gunna do it you might aswell do it properly to start with, unlike me!!! :) that side of the engine is pretty cramped for room being a pre cross-flow engine, and also having the alternator and starter motor on that side aswell. heat wouldn't really be an issue. you could move the turbo a bit closer to the engine than what mine is, but this would also give you issues in trying to get an exhasut off the back of it!!! the only hassles in putting it were the battery is is relocating it to the boot and running new wiring for that. also there is a little bit of wiring that runs down that side of the engine bay, that would become pretty close to some hot exhaust. I have hidden all of this wiring and run it through the guard. If you have a look a few pages back at boost+k's setup you will see he has made a metal heat guard to protect this wiring. btw, with the ke70 exhaust manifold, be bloody carefull trying to get the bolts out that bolt it to the inlet manifold cause they can snap REALLY easy because of the heat they have been under. I would highly recommend actually taking it to an exhaust shop and getting them to heat it with an oxy and take it out slowly. then go and get yourself a new "hot box" gasket from somewhere and bolt it to your ke30 inlet. when I had mine apart I actually re-tapped the holes in the exhaust manifold and bought new high tensile bolts for my own piece of mind. :(
Falken_KE30 Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 Ok, 1, why do you have remove the 3 studs out of the manifold for?, don't you use it to bolt J pipe onto?. The battery in boot is no problem, ill just come see you when i have everthing for it lol!! where would the best place to position the turbo then?, bit clueless on that..hmmm Also don't ind running all wiring behind guard, was gunna do that anyway, neaten it all up..one day, Will probably be up to 3-4 months before i get a turbo and J pipe, and other bits..
Taz_Rx Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 (edited) nah wrong flange. I'm talking about were the exhaust manifold and inlet maifold are bolted together. the ke70 ones have the stupid hot air recirculation shit on them, so what i did was use my ke55 inlet with the ke70 exhaust and welded up the outlet for the air researc. they're the 3 "hot box" bolts I'm talikng about. you can see the welded recirc thing in this pic. Edited June 27, 2006 by Taz_Rx
Falken_KE30 Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 ahhh yes, coolio I see now, will go get it done soon ish, thanks mate
Taz_Rx Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 (edited) I can weld up the air recirculation bit for you, just get an exhaust shop etc to get those 3 hot box bolts out in 1 piece for you. :) Edited June 27, 2006 by Taz_Rx
Falken_KE30 Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 Hmmmm, I'm so lost, I have the manifold in front of me, there is the side that goes onto the head, then the outlet side one big hole with 3 studs, then on top of the manifold there is a big hole where the inlet manifold sat on it???... DO you mean that bit?
Taz_Rx Posted June 28, 2006 Report Posted June 28, 2006 Ooh, its already off!!!! yeah thats were I mean. check the three bolt holes around it and make sure there isn't any bolts snapped in it. the closest one to the engine is the most common to snap, the back 2 you should be able to see daylight looking through them from memory.
Nebuchernezzer Posted July 12, 2006 Report Posted July 12, 2006 (edited) Hi, was just searching for info on carby turboing a KE70 on google and found this thread, excellent stuff :hmm: Anyways from my quick read of this thread i'm thinking the following would be possible: T25 from CA18DET (or perhaps E15ET T2, i don't think they run water cooling which would make things simpler) on around 5-6psi (no intercooler nessessary at these pressures or is it recommended to have one?) Sealed square box around stock carby (rejetted, i have no idea how to tune a carby however, as far as i can tell you change needles to effect how much fuel comes out, but how do you tell how much fuel you are getting and weather to go up/down sizes?) Locked dizzy and remove vacuum advance Larger electric fuel pump (has anyone tried plumbing boost into the stock mech fuel pump as mentioned in the thread?, i guess i'll need a fuel pressure gauge to keep an eye on this) Related plumbing for turbo, water/oil lines and exhaust. I'd be hoping for 50rwkw and a substantial torque increase. Does this sound feasable? I've had some experience with engine conversions and general car stuff before so fabrication won't be a problem, carbies, jets and dizzys are a pretty grey area for me though (My background is turbocharged EFI Nissans). Things like weather i'll need a rising rate reg or the differences between an EFI or carby reg are a mystery to me at this point. Jarich Edited July 12, 2006 by Nebuchernezzer
pozman Posted July 12, 2006 Report Posted July 12, 2006 only early leaded ET s came without water cooling (low mount turbo) and the the later unleaded ones came with the high mount water cooled turbos.
Nebuchernezzer Posted July 12, 2006 Report Posted July 12, 2006 Fair enough, looking at the photos of what others have done it's going to be a 5 minute job to route in water to the turbo if it's required anyways :lolcry:.
pozman Posted July 12, 2006 Report Posted July 12, 2006 yeah it doesn't take much, ive got a non water cooled et, which now has a t25, so i had to put water lines in for that. if your've got basic mechinical skills the whole job shouldn't be that hard, just get someone to do the tuning for you.
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