Ke30 Ke55 Hydraulic Clutch Setup

[kangaroosa]

I just setup my KE30 pedal box for a Hydraulic clutch setup using a different method as many others have done on this forum. So I thought I would share.

It uses the standard KE30 Manual pedal box and a Series 1 RX7 Master Cylinder (which is suited to my 12a Rotary conversion).

The master needs 25mm of pedal travel from start until it bottoms out. Best of all, the master bolts up to the existing provision on the firewall once you cut a circular hole in the firewall. I will be replacing the existing fixed bolts with some longer items as i can only get about 1/2 a nut holding the master on.

 

What you will need:

- 10mm Threaded Rod (nuts and washers to suit)

- 8mm Threaded Rod (nuts and washers to suit)

- An angle grinder (or hack saw)

-Cordless or Electric Drill

-10mm Drill Bit (you will need smaller sizes to work up to the 10mm hole for the threaded rod)

 

-The pics explain it better than i can, but you basically drill a hole in the pedal where it will give you the correct amount of pedal throw to suit the master cylinder of your choice. Having the hole close to the pivot point will give less travel than having the hole further away from the pivot point....common sense.

It just so happens that my hole had to be a few mm below the ideal plane, but nothing fouls and i get the required travel with a few mm to spare. Which can be adjusted out using the pedal stop on the pedal box and the adjustable push rod.

 

-Drill the 10mm hole for the threaded rod to pass through and tighten a nut on either side of the pedal to hold it in place.

 

-Then place another nut for the push rod fitting to rest on, so its on a level plane with the master cylinder. Tighten the fitting in place with another nut (well its not supposed to be tight, but loose enough to allow the fitting to rotate on the rod).

 

I ditched the existing push rod as it was too short. In its place i have a length of 8mm threaded rod. I linished the end section that enters the master cylinder so it was smooth and has a rounded tip.

 

I had a few attempts/ideas that i undertook before coming to this solution, hence the big sections of metal missing from around the pivot point. I will weld some bracing in its place to strengthen it up. I will also be tack welding the nuts to the rod and pedal. I'll just loctite the nuts near the rod fitting to allow it to be removed if I have to.

I'll also put a locknut on the adjustable push rod to prevent it from re-adjusting itself

 

So there you have it. An alternative to cutting the whole clutch pedal assembly off and moving it upwards and outwards as many others have done.

 

Edited August 18, 2008 by kangaroosa

[TE278U]

for what it's worth, maybe knock up some tapered washers to align the m/cyl housing to the same plane as the pushrod, to eliminate wear?

 

but otherwise looks real good.

 

you've confirmed what i had thought possible.

 

+ rep....

[johnny t]

mate ur a ledgend! great work i will have to try this on mine when i get my car back!!exited to do it now :dance: johnnyt

[kangaroosa]

for what it's worth, maybe knock up some tapered washers to align the m/cyl housing to the same plane as the pushrod, to eliminate wear?

 

but otherwise looks real good.

 

you've confirmed what i had thought possible.

 

+ rep....

Yeah, thats a fair point. I may just do that when i replace the exiting bolts for the master with longer ones.

[4a30]

Hey man good idea I'm having real trouble getting the pedal box out any tips ive undun all the bolts but it wont budge thanks.