"jesus" - The Sacrificial Lamb?

[Taz_Rx]

Yeah mate, that'll work.

 

You just need to get fuel into the fuel rail (just get a barbed fitting for the rail in) and then out of the rail through an EFI regulator - but it probably has the stock one on the end of the rail.

 

Then you just need to filter the fuel befor it it gets to the rail, mine is befor the lift pump.

[machg]

Wiring 90% finished, learning heaps in the process. Mixing and matching wiring looms, :). Won't start, not getting spark, but I'm not beaten yet. Does anyone know any info (or where to get info) on the vacuum hose set-ups for a 2TGEU engine?

[machg]

Man, I hate electrical shit, the bitch just won't start. The issues I definitely know about are stuffed coolant temp sensor and O2 sensor not mounted into exhaust system. Here are some pics showing some potential wiring issues.

 

This plug isn't connected to anything, I have temporarily earthed the 2 black wires in the plug, just in case.

 

The yellow plug belongs to the EFI loom and is plugged into an a/c idle control box. white plug is from carb loom and was plugged in there.

 

All the main ECU plugs in, does the unit itself need to be earthed (i.e. bolted to trans tunnel) to work properly?

 

Open circuit relay was clicking on cranking, seems to be O.K. now, clicks only when trying to crank on flat battery.

 

Very strange, EFI loom doesn't have connection/provision for the voltage regulator, is this correct? Does the EFI (2TGEU) alternator maybe have a voltage regulator built into it? I am running the carb alternator, but can put in the EFI one if required.

 

Tests: EFI pump is running all the time ignition is on, and fuel will piss out of the return line the comes out of the fuel pressure regulator which is mounted on the end of the fuel rail, if the fuel hose is pulled off, so fuel is getting to the injectors. After a fair bit of trial and error and splicing into the loom, I am getting good, strong cranking on a full battery. As above with the trial and error and splicing, I am getting some spark from the coil to the dissy, but an extremely weak spark from the dissy to the plugs. I don't think its plugs or leads as I have tried two sets of leads (one which was running the carb engine O.K.) and plugs look virtually brand new. Have also tried bump starting (towed to 50 km/h and popped clutch in 3rd, engine turned over at 3000rpm, absolutely no signs of life from engine.)

 

Basically I have done everything I can think of in wiring, trialled and errored EFI and carb components, tried to use as much of the EFI loom as possible, checked for blown fuses, etc. and still no go. I really hate electrical shit, I can understand why a lot of guys toss EFI stuff and go carbs, soooooo much easier electrically. I have a mate who is pretty good with electrical stuff, so hopefully he can get it running. Otherwise :jamie: Any suggestions?

Edited December 14, 2008 by machg

[tas_ae71]

you could check that the injectors are getting a pulse signal with your trusty test light.

 

but id be guessing that it would be more along the lines of the weak spark issue. do you know if the ecu controls only the fuel? also you are using a electronic coil not the old points one? also you don't sue the balast resistor with the electronic one. also check the rotor button and cap for bad wear damage etc, wouldn't hurt to clean the contacts too with a clean rag.

 

4ag's had built in voltage reg's (may be safe to say that another efi motor at around the same era may also have built-in). if it was me id use the 2tgue altenator. plus it will be plug in!

[machg]

Thanks Aaron. This arvo I did as you suggested, unhooked one of the injectors and plugged in a 12V bulb to test. Absolutely nothing on cranking, so it looks like the injectors aren't opening. Do 2T injectors work "normally" that is they have power supplied to them all the time, but only open when "earthed" by the ECU? What voltage would they be running, possibly less than 12 volt? I swapped alternators and disconnected the balast resistor. The whole dissy assembly looks quite a lot better than the 3T one and that ran O.K. I mounted the ECU so it is earthed on the trans tunnel. I also bought a can of Aerostart. I actually got it to fire for like 1/2 a second then died. I suspect the problem is two-fold - a lack of injector pulse combined with a weak spark. I might join Toymods and hit them up for ideas too. Cheers, Mark

Edited December 15, 2008 by machg

[KE30_KE35_KE55]

This is a 2 t wiring diagram, maybe try a celica forum if your stuck

[machg]

Thanks mate, Toymods seems to have lots of 2TGEU specific information. I feel like a bit of a goose, but I haven't actually checked spark timing yet. Given that the engine hasn't been apart, I reckon it will be O.K., but still, I'll find #1 TDC and make sure the dissy rotor position is about right...

[KE30_KE35_KE55]

Thanks mate, Toymods seems to have lots of 2TGEU specific information. I feel like a bit of a goose, but I haven't actually checked spark timing yet. Given that the engine hasn't been apart, I reckon it will be O.K., but still, I'll find #1 TDC and make sure the dissy rotor position is about right...

 

I scout secondhand book shops swap meets ebay for genuine Toyota manuals, they are usually well worth the hunt.

[tas_ae71]

well if it fired even for half a second then you must have spark...

 

id be looking into the fuel side of things.

[machg]

Yeah, its definitely getting spark. The CSI is definitely firing, and spray pattern looked O.K. The main injectors aren't firing. I did some more checks and found a blown 10A engine fuse that blew recently or I missed first time. Spark timing is roughly correct, but firing at 16 degrees BTDC seems a little extreme to me, so I backed it off a bit. One problem I am having is that my injector wiring is different to the wiring diagrams I have seen. There are only 3 different coloured wires, and I can't find a ballast resistor they are supposed to connect too. My gut feeling is that the injectors aren't receiving their power supply, but as my wiring is different, I am finding hard to find where they should be getting their power supply from. The only vacant plug is the one shown in the first pic on this page, still have no idea what this is for. Oh yeah, checked all the wires going into the ECU and their doesn't seem to be any broken links to the components they are connected too. Fuel pump is not wired correctly, but until I get the engine running, I'd rather have the fuel pump running all the time, at least then I know fuel will be getting to the rail.

[machg]

Attempted the usual impossible this arvo, getting the bitch to run, now no spark at all from coil (it is getting power) and CSI not spraying (slams door and walks off in disgust)

Edited December 18, 2008 by machg

[machg]

Finally made progress, idles on Aerostart. The power supply to the ECU was non existent. Now that the ECUs powered up, #10 and #20 are only putting out 0.4V ignition on and 0.8V when cranking, which I highly doubt is enough to open the injectors. I suspect the ECU is cactus. Also listened to the injectors with a stethoscope, and they definitely aren't opening. Out of desperation I briefly put 12V over #4 injector then the CSI and they definitely opened. Does anyone know what voltage the injectors are supposed to receive? I am thinking of manually supplying #10 and #20 with the correct voltage and then seeing if the ECU will run them. I reckon I have no chance of finding another 2TGEU ECU, so I might see if I can borrow a 4AGE ECU off someone and see if that will get it running. (I'll double check, but I have read that the 2 ECUs are virtually the same)

Edited December 19, 2008 by machg

[KE30_KE35_KE55]

Got to be the ECU or wiring. I know these problems can be frustrating. maybe a second hand ecu could be found on ebay or is there someone in your area with a motor the same that you could swap ECU's over to test yours.

[Medicine_Man]

The injectors should receive battery voltage on one side and the computer grounds them out on the other side when they need to open.

 

Looking at the picture of your ECU and connectors they are not the same as the 4AGE.

[machg]

Thanks heaps guys for your input, it turns out that plug in the first photo was somewhat essential to the operation of the fuel injection system. It dead-ended the power supply for the injectors and the ignition pulse for the ECU. Once connected, I actually managed to bump start and drive her around the block. Its a long way from being right, but once I have fitted the O2 sensor to the exhaust, sourced a coolant temp sensor for the ECU, and had a really good check for vacuum leaks, I will be on the home straight. Summary of fatal faults: 1) no power supply to ECU - no idea why, all connections look O.K., possibly broken wire, 2) no IG2 signal to ECU - dead-ended in a plug near the ECU and 3) no injector power supply - same as 2. Thanks go to my Dad for lending me his multimeter, you can't fault find properly without one. The coolant temp sensor, can I just go to Supacrap or Rip(off)co and get one? It looks very similar to a bigport 4AGE sensor, can anyone confirm they are indeed the same?

Edited December 20, 2008 by machg