Changing Shocks/springs In A Macpherson Strut

[Killswitch]

Hey all, in the process of (well trying to...) change shocks and springs in my KE70 front struts. Both struts are out of the car but I'm damned if I can even start to dismantle them.

 

I can't crack the top nut under the dust cap. Trying to do so just turns the shock absorber.

 

Is there a trick to stop the shock turning or is it more a case of using a rattle gun or some such?

 

I'm sure the whole process is fairly simple I've just never done it before and gregory's is of very little help.

 

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

[adam-__-]

Most would use a rattle gun to take the top nut off. Don't forget to compress the springs first though, you don't want a nut flying into someones face!

 

With my strut, I no longer had use for the shocks, I just needed the tops so I angle grinded the shock's shaft so that I can grip it with a vice grip. Once I had grip I took the nut off like any other nut.

 

Oh I also took the shock out of the strut first. Just undo the gland nut. THEN angle grind the shaft..

[Medicine_Man]

need spring compressors for a start or you will end up with a strut top though your head.

 

and yes, you need to rattle them off..

[Killswitch]

Dang, need to go to a mates then. Fail boat.

 

And yes, I did have spring compressors on, I'm not a complete numpty.

 

What a pain, ah well... another day.

[TE278U]

spring compressors are only needed for people who aren't creative...

 

no offense pls peoples.

 

your car is one massive spring compressor, so if you undo the nyloc nut at the top of your strut before you even jack the car up, the weight of the car will help you undo the nut, and once nut is removed, the shocker will slip through the upper mount as you jack the car up.

 

once the car is up, the strut will be a little easier to remove without having the spring captive.

 

that's my idea...

 

also winding the coil down the strut can alleviate pressure before undoing the top nut.

 

see post:http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=22467

 

refer to coilunders photo...

 

tip 2 relates to removing strut without undoing brake lines.

 

with wheel removed from strut, you should be able to put a hacksaw slot in the tab that is welded on the strut body to hold the flexible brake line in place.

 

once you've cut through one side, you can twist the tab so the flex line will slip thru without damage.

 

to reinstall, bend the tab back straight, and put the little clip back in.

 

voila.

 

.

[parrot]

Lie the strut on the floor and put a bar between two of the strut top studs with the other end on the floor to lock the strut top. Then try to undo the nut. More often than not it will undo. don't be tempted to put vise grips or what not onto the piston rod. Worse case scenario then yes you will need a rattle gun.

 

Make sure whatever you do that your foot, or car is not in the direction the strut top will go when the nut comes off......

 

Spring compressors are very cheap to buy and just make things easier when reassembling, assuming you have standard height springs to go back in.

[philbey]

I used a strip of bicycle tube wrapped around the strut rod with the multigrips. Wont damage, and rubber has good friction so it grabs nicely. Too easy.

 

Edited August 6, 2008 by philbey

[Killswitch]

Lie the strut on the floor and put a bar between two of the strut top studs with the other end on the floor to lock the strut top. Then try to undo the nut. More often than not it will undo. don't be tempted to put vise grips or what not onto the piston rod. Worse case scenario then yes you will need a rattle gun.

 

Make sure whatever you do that your foot, or car is not in the direction the strut top will go when the nut comes off......

 

Spring compressors are very cheap to buy and just make things easier when reassembling, assuming you have standard height springs to go back in.

 

The strut top isn't locked to the shock though so bracing or holding that does nothing to assist with undoing the nut?

 

I don't need the shocks so out come the multigrips I'm thinking.

[dfunkt]

i helped a mate replace his shocks over the weekend.

 

the top of his shocks had flat sides on them that would locate into the strut top. by getting it to locate, and applying pressure so the spring wouldn't force it out, this stopped the shock from rotating inside the strut both when removing and installing the shocks.

[SeptemberSquall]

spring compressors are only needed for people who aren't creative...

 

no offense pls peoples.

 

your car is one massive spring compressor, so if you undo the nyloc nut at the top of your strut before you even jack the car up, the weight of the car will help you undo the nut, and once nut is removed, the shocker will slip through the upper mount as you jack the car up.

 

once the car is up, the strut will be a little easier to remove without having the spring captive.

 

that's my idea...

 

also winding the coil down the strut can alleviate pressure before undoing the top nut.

 

see post:http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=22467

 

refer to coilunders photo...

 

tip 2 relates to removing strut without undoing brake lines.

 

with wheel removed from strut, you should be able to put a hacksaw slot in the tab that is welded on the strut body to hold the flexible brake line in place.

 

once you've cut through one side, you can twist the tab so the flex line will slip thru without damage.

 

to reinstall, bend the tab back straight, and put the little clip back in.

 

voila.

 

.

 

I've used both these techniques before with much success

+rep oh shit no toymods

[parrot]

The strut top isn't locked to the shock though so bracing or holding that does nothing to assist with undoing the nut?

 

I don't need the shocks so out come the multigrips I'm thinking.

 

No, but the spring pushes the hat against the strut top.

 

Locking the strut top enables you to put some oomph into turning the nut without worrying about trying to stop the complete strut twisting on the floor.

 

If you are chucking the inserts, you can hold them however you like.

[marvis]

Scream it on.

 

 

Multi grips FTW.

[irokin]

I usually grind a little step into both sides of the shaft if the shocks of little use once removed. Its tough to get a grip on but with the little step you can get vice grips/multi grips/shifter on there and the rest should be a piece of cake.

[Killswitch]

All changed, vise grips to hold the shock to get them off and then after taking them apart I understand what the others were saying about the straight tops on the shock rod and how it locks in. It all comes together now!

 

Now just to change the wheel bearings and put on new discs and rekit the brake calipers. Then I'll have... pretty boring ke70 struts! Regretting getting whiteline springs now, still seem very soft. But I suppose I shall see when I finally get to drive zis beasty.

 

 

Oh, one other thing albeit it only semi-related.

 

Is the seal on the back of the hub that stops the larger roller bearing escaping reuseable or should I have a new one for a new set of wheel bearings?

Edited August 7, 2008 by Killswitch

[parrot]

Always new. It will undoubtedly receive damage when removing it, even if you don't notice it. Plus they are very cheap anyway. You don't want a wheel bearing seizing.