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Posted
Dan delivered to me the 4ke rocker cover, whole manifold which had on it already the throttle body, fuel rail, intake plenum tps,and some sensor on the intake plenum etc but it has those yellow supra injectors (maybe too much flow for N/A motor), and the microtech D5 with the loom.

 

I didnt get any dizzy at all, currently my 4k has a dippondenso points dizzy but with an electronic ignition conversion kit I ordered from pertronix ignitions in the states, has worked a treat. I believe the microtech D5 is a fuel only ecu and all it needs from the ignition system is a tacho signal from the coil, I could be wrong though.

 

I am also curious what fuel pump system to use, I am gonna put a low pressure pump with a low pressure filter off the tank feeding into a surge tank (so its great on steep offroad angles). My question is which high pressure pump should be used from the surge tank to the fuel rail? I was assuming the usual vl pump like almost everybody uses.

 

What i really wanna know is what the pins out of the ecu goes to where so I can wire it up correctly, then I will start installing

 

Is all the wiring cut? Otherwise it should just be a matter of plugging everything back in!

Yeah the old D5's are just a "coil negative trigger" as there's no ignition to control.

And you're right with your fuel system, VL pump will do the trick fine and they're cheap and easy to find.

 

Just did a quick search for info on D5 wiring and found this for you:

 

Fax a request to 0298081245 asking for a fax back of some of the important pages for the D5. That is the factory fax number, they will have a copy of the manual for a D5 somewhere... probably hidden under some bones from convicts from the first settlement. (its an old ECU) but will work..! There are still cars out there running 10's on old D5's

 

:y:

Posted

thats was all my gear once, the d5 is the same pin out as a digi and i have the digi diag here if you want them.

 

but i can tell you what they are

red is positive

pink is ignition on positive

brown is negitive and splits off into about 3 brown and black

green is a negitive switch for fuel pump (my not work, most are cooked)

yellow is bank one injectors and orange is bank 2 injectors ( but as this is a rotary ecu only bank one is used as orange is staged and can't be changed, so the injectors are wired as 2 in series x2 then put in parallel as the ohm of the injectors are too low for all in parallel)

Vilot (purple) with a brown is temp

blue,grey,brown is TPS Blue is 5+ volts, grey is signal and brown is ground

there maybe another black by its self near the otherend of the plug what is for Air temp, Goes also with a brown

White is ignition input and goes to the negitive of the coil

 

Let me know if you need any more info on it. It was running on a digi but i took it and put in the D5. I hope you got the temp sensor with it or you may have trouble getting it to work.

the supra injectors wont be too big but it will still be a pig to tune as the res on the ECU isnt too good, it was only used as idle or flatout on the car we put it on as it was just a thrash bus.

Posted
Temp sensor was near the thermostat yes?

Yes the factory temp sensor is about 5mm under the thermostat.

 

Many many thanks for your help guys, in the meantime I have also emailed microtech and they have sent me 2 wiring diagrams that are labelled as digi, which now i know is pretty much the same as the d5. I am happy its a fuel only computer cause my current ignition system works great.

The loom I recieved from dan will mostly be used, especially the parts that already have the plugs to go into the toyota tps and that other plug on the intake plenum and the injectors, i will leave all that stuff as it is because it worked previously. The rest of the wiring I just wanted to know which relay switched what etc, which is where knowing which wires off the loom go where will be handy

 

Keeping in mind this is going into my 4k engined suzuki sierra I am more after mid range power than sheer top end (even if i lower the low range transfer gears heaps) to make it crawl better, still have power to drive on steep angles where carbies falter lots and hopefully with big tires and the aerodymanics of a brick, will maintain open road freeway speeds on hills better than it does now.

The computer will be mounted in the car but will be screwed straight onto the steel dash cause then its high up so should not get full of water if I cross some massive mud puddle or river and the cab fills up with water.

Posted
Temp sensor was near the thermostat yes?

Yes the factory temp sensor is about 5mm under the thermostat.

 

Many many thanks for your help guys, in the meantime I have also emailed microtech and they have sent me 2 wiring diagrams that are labelled as digi, which now i know is pretty much the same as the d5. I am happy its a fuel only computer cause my current ignition system works great.

The loom I recieved from dan will mostly be used, especially the parts that already have the plugs to go into the toyota tps and that other plug on the intake plenum and the injectors, i will leave all that stuff as it is because it worked previously. The rest of the wiring I just wanted to know which relay switched what etc, which is where knowing which wires off the loom go where will be handy

 

Keeping in mind this is going into my 4k engined suzuki sierra I am more after mid range power than sheer top end (even if i lower the low range transfer gears heaps) to make it crawl better, still have power to drive on steep angles where carbies falter lots and hopefully with big tires and the aerodymanics of a brick, will maintain open road freeway speeds on hills better than it does now.

The computer will be mounted in the car but will be screwed straight onto the steel dash cause then its high up so should not get full of water if I cross some massive mud puddle or river and the cab fills up with water.

Posted

yes if possible would love to get the sensor for sure.

Maybe then it may also help with that relay you mentioned so I can have my thermo fan cutting in and out on its own. At the moment I just have it wired to a 60 amp switch on the dash that I turn on and off manually. usually only turn it off if crossing deep water.

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