Ae112r Engine Oil?

[Conquest00]

We've just bought a 2000 Corolla Conquest and I want to know which oil to use for it? Toyota told me that they used 20W-50 on them and they told me to keep using this grade oil.

 

Should I buy the oil from Toyota? Which oil grade do I go for?

 

Oh and shes done 55,000 on the odo :bash:

[SoulSearcher]

I prefer synthetic oil, when my car was serviced at Toyota, they put that it, not the ordinary 20/50 that goes in other cars...

[Raven]

Try Shell Rimula as its a 10w40 full synthetic oil. The 10 means its a thinner oil at cold temps and a thinner oil at high temps.

 

If you start going through oil, you will then need to thicken it up, which is the 20w50. A lower weight oil means less friction, so revs more freely and is a little bit more responsive in some cases.

 

Euro cars use it and its not too badly priced plus we sell it at my work. :bash:

Edited July 26, 2008 by Raven

[Hiro Protagonist]

I wouldn't go any lower than 15W40, which is what Toyota recommends, along with 20W50. Remember, the car is 8 years old now, and A-series engines love to start burning oil around that age. 20W50 if the engine is reasonably healthy, 15W40 if it's a minta.

 

And if it's like my 7A, 25W50 to prevent that extra burn-off when it's cold

[Budowski]

Corolla, AE92, 1.6 Litre 4A-FE EFI Eng., Manual (1991-1994)

Corolla, AE112, 1.8 Litre 7A-FE DOHC Eng. (1998-2001)

 

CASTROL MAGNATEC

Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 combines Intelligent Molecules with synthetic technology for a stronger layer of protection from the moment you turn the key. Whether its during start-up, or on the road in demanding driving conditions, your engine needs more than just ordinary oil. You need the advanced protection of liquid engineering. Castrol Magnatec keeps your car at its peak for longer as its Intelligent Molecules cling and bond to metal surfaces of your engine, protect during all driving conditions and temperatures. Castrol Magnatec meets and exceeds API SM/CF, ACEA A3/B3 requirements.

 

CASTROL GTX3 MODERN ENGINE 15W-40

Castrol GTX3 Modern Engine 15W-40 uses the latest technology to meet the needs of today's more demanding modern engines. Its more than just oil. Its liquid engineering designed for longer drains and/or smaller sump sizes of modern engines. Castrol GTX3 15W-40 extends the life of your modern engine via providing advanced protection against high temperatures and stresses encountered in modern engines. Castrol GTX3 15W-40 meets and exceeds API SM/CF, ACEA A3/B3 requirements. Castrol GTX3 15W-40 is suitable for 4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines built by most manufacturers since 1995.

Edited July 27, 2008 by Budowski

[Teddy]

Not to say that anyone here is correct or incorect, But you must remember at the end of the day, everyone has different experiences & ideas on what a motor should run oil wise. No one here is an oil lab-analyst either, lol. Every oil product will tell you that there product is better, obviously. As for the grade of oil.. 20W50 is what Toyota genuine is for that motor; If the motor had excessive kms on it, i would make the decision to change to a slightly thicker grade oil to compensate; but if its getting that bad; you should probably look into fixing the motor :bash:

 

Realistically, if you want to look after your motor with piece of mind that what you have in there is ok, just chuck genuine stuff in there, but do an oil and filter change every 5,000. It always keeps the oil looking overrated !

[Conquest00]

I think I'm gonna give the 15W-40 a try and if I see that the engine doesn't like it then I guess 20W-50 here we come! :S

[Budowski]

i have recently changed jobs I'm now working back at CMI toyota where i once did my apprenticeship.

 

they are currently using bulk Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 in all vehicles even diesel.

[Raven]

i have recently changed jobs I'm now working back at CMI toyota where i once did my apprenticeship.

 

they are currently using bulk Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 in all vehicles even diesel.

 

Which CMI you working at? :S

[Budowski]

Which CMI you working at? :S

west tce in the city :D

[Bowler]

Generally, when buying oil, it's not the age so much the amount of km's covered. Lots of new cars nowadays recommend 10W-30, which has an ILSAC rating - meaning it’s a low friction oil - or an oil suitable for higher fuel efficiency. Manufacturers will recommend this oil (for general day to day running) up to around 100K. The tradeoff is the fact that the lower viscosity will mean lower shear thickness of oil (aka, there will be a thinner layer of oil protecting the parts in your engine). Another general rule is that the last number, whether it be a 30, 40, 50 or 60 (sometime even a 70, although technically this cannot exist as there is no SAE rating for a 70 weight engine oil) will be the viscosity of the oil at operating temperatures. Thus, no matter what the first number, at running temperature, a 10W-50 will be the same as a 15W-50 or a 20W-50.

Also, you will find oils with a greater variance in viscosity are more likely to be synthetic oils. Synthetic oils are considered better than mineral base, due to the fact that they are made with fewer impurities, which can afflict mineral base oils. These impurities can lead to an increase in oxidation of the oil (where it turns to black and stops being as effective in lubricating.) A synthetic oil therefore means that because the oil is purer, it is less susceptible to oxidation, thus being cleaner come time to change oil. Theoretically, this means that the oil will last longer, but it’s not a recommendation by oil companies to extend oil servicing, as most people neglect to change oil frequently anyway. Most European cars (with service intervals of up to 20K) will strictly recommend synthetic oil for use in there vehicles.

Generally, I would recommend running a lower viscosity oil (on start-up) then say go to a larger number for running for a car with 55K. Something along the lines of a 15W-50. this is due to the fact that the thinner the oil is on start up, the quicker the oil can get to the top of the engine, which will allow the oil to heat up quicker (as a low viscosity oil will also be able to absorb energy much quicker than a higher viscosity oil) which will in turn get to running temperature quicker. Obviously, as mileage increases, you should increase the thickness of the oil. As we speak, I use an HPR15 (15W-60) in my 4AFC, with 340K on the clock, and haven't had any serious consumption issues to date.

 

--for the record, I am an impartial employee of Supercheap Auto, and did a little study in this area