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Posted
Hey guys, just wondering what is involved in fitting a 5k and 5-speed to a ke10/11?

 

Cheers, Ben.

 

throw one out and throw the other in, apart from maybe having the shifter hole further back

but take 2 secs with a angle grinder

Posted

The 5k pretty much goes straight in. You may need to change the bolt on accessories to the ke1x ones, ie. the engine mounts, waterpump, alternator, manifolds etc.

 

Depends what gearbox is in the ke1x to begin with. If it is the stock ke1x 4 speed, you will need to change the front input shaft part of the tailshaft (with new uni), to match the box, as the ke1x boxes have a different output shaft spline to all later boxes. You'll also need to cut a new shifter hole and maybe extend the wires for the reversing lights. A ke70 5 speed will need a bit of tunnel massaging and the xmember redrilled as the gearbox mount is different.

 

It is all pretty straight forward.

Posted

Yeah its stock 4 speed. Didn't really wanna go cutting and drilling shit in it, cos its way original.

 

How much further back would the 5speed shifter sit? how much would need to be cut out?

 

Would a 5k be much bigger than a 4k? I would've thought they'd be pretty much the same.

 

Cheers, Ben.

Posted

the 5k is just a bored out 4k...the blocks are the same.

 

i remember reading that the auto ke1x shifter location was in the right spot for a k40/k50 from a ke2x/3x/5x

(fairly sure i found that info on rollaclub)

Posted

If you run original KE1X gear box and a 5K will need to install early flex plate and flywheel to the 5K motor.

 

Also use original mounts OR if you want to up right the motor more run KE55 exhaust side mount.

 

Also if 5K has a van sump will need massaging to fit.

 

Also I had some issues with extractors, stock exhaust manifold for awhile getting them to fit a KE1X with a 5K. Pipes hit or didn't match up. In the end a set of Pacemaker 4-1 extractors fit BUT if you run a late model starter you need to remove the heat shield. And the inside runner JUST touches the gear box in front of a starter also. But they fit..lol

 

Also KE1X auto car shells have a bigger trans tunnel :S So if yours was auto ke70 5 speed fits with no hammering. If it is a manual tunnel thins at rear so the spring return things in the back of a KE70 gear box will hit.

 

Also need to run ke1X water pump on 5K or it will hit radiator.

 

When I put my 5K in my ke15 I had issues with running stock alternator and stock water pump pulley and a 5K crank pulley. 5K crank one is larger so normal belt wont fit. 5K fan belt had the latter alternator with internal reg and bigger pulley so with a KE1X alt on the 5K ke1X fan belt to short, 5K fan belt to long. I eventually found the right one forget part number but so can have issues there.

 

Other wise is kinda bolt in fun.

 

Also I put the lack of KE1X pollution gear on my 5K....Because I could up to you what you do there but.

 

Cameron

Posted

A 5 speed is a good idea when running a 5k, especially if the motor is stock. In standard form a 5k isn't as comfortable sitting at the same cruise revs as what a 3k would be, as the 5k develops peak torque a lot lower in the rev range. Probably not a big deal if most of your driving is around town, but on the highway you will want the extra gear.

 

If you didn't want to cut or drill anything and kept the stock ke1x 4 speed, I guess you could always try a taller (numerically lower) diff ratio like a 4.1 or 3.9 if you can find the centers, or fit taller tyres.

Posted

Yeh I thought that the 4k and 5k were the same.

 

It was originally manual, so smaller tunnel.

 

Yeh I would be running a 5 speed, not a big fan of the 4 speeds. engine would be rebuilt, just a mild cruiser really with a bit of go, mild cam etc.

 

Diff wise I'd be going with something like a 4.11:1 or similar.

 

Cheers, Ben.

Posted (edited)
i remember reading that the auto ke1x shifter location was in the right spot for a k40/k50 from a ke2x/3x/5x

(fairly sure i found that info on rollaclub)

 

No kidding - that would be convenient with the hole I cut in my carpet...!

 

Also use original mounts OR if you want to up right the motor more run KE55 exhaust side mount.

 

Cam, any idea how much space I'll gain on the left side and what other mounts (30, 50,70 etc) would have this effect, because I'm aiming to maximise space for my DHLAs.

Edited by philbey
Posted

Philby you might find if you raise the manifold side, you could run into problems with the extractors hitting the floorpan. Depends on what extractors you use I guess. Remember that a 4/5k is taller than a 3k.

 

I had to make a lowered mount on the manifold side for clearance.

Posted

Height gain was decent. I mean if your running side draft why not get amount for free and go. But as Felix said extractors. I had a stock exhaust and then pacemaker extractors and all hit with that mount but JUST. So small bent and your out of woods.

 

Worth doing put a jack under gearbox to support it then a bottle jack on alt mount jack at alt then undo stock mount jack more slide in ke55 one takes 10min to change and you will see difference.

 

Cameron

Posted

Felix, thanks for the heads up, I didn't realise the 3k is shorter. I measured up my dellortos on a 3k, so I will get more space on the 5k. I'm fairly certain my headers won't fit easily but I reckon I Can modify the pipe after the collector to get them in at least.

 

Cam, I will head down to the wreckers and get a mount. Glad I read this post, I thought "pfft, how hard is a 5k into a ke10, why bother reading that" hahaha

 

Also, benzo, I'm not sure, but the last time I put a 5k into a KE10, it had 2 cast brackets that bolt on the bottom of the motor to the bellhousing that the 3k didnt have. We had to leave one of these brackets off because either the idler arm or the pitman arm on the steering clashed with it. The car has been running for years without the bracket, so I'm guessing its all good.

 

You'll see what I mean when you do the conversion.

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