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Posted
Found the bastard email...

 

"A mate/customer just dropped by with his dyno sheet from a little 3K toyo I built a while back, he only had a copy on his phone but is dropping it back later - so I'll post it then.

 

It's a 1300cc 3K toyota engine, re-ring, stock pistons, stock crank, stock rod bolts etc, pistons have been de-compressed slightly (can't remember compression).

Head has stock valves, good seats, a decent port job & double valve springs, cam is an old NA grind I had laying around.

Stock mains bolts, stock head bolts etc.

Exhaust manifold is a dodgy steam pipe jigger with an RB25 T3 turbo wedged on the end.

It's draw through with a 1.75CD stromberg carb, no intercooler.

Ignition is the original points dissy.

 

On Avgas it made 166rwkw (225rwhp) on 19psi boost with 10:1 AFR's & conservative timing."

 

Not to shabby pretty much stock 3K so HP can be made. Steer clear of 4K blocks to noticed other day had a 5K 4K and 3K lined up 4K had thinnest cast of lot so weaker i dare say.

 

And my bad was thinking of another hot 3K with the bigger vlves I speak of. It was also HIGH HP.

 

So do it right mix parts right K power can be had with boost..research research research before build. THen you will be happy and save a $ or 2.

 

Quick note....this guy at 19PSI after about 6 months driving hard always broke ring lands. So if you use after market ones you will over come that. So old stock pistons expect to break ring lands not if but WHEN....

 

 

You can fit mitsubishi colt 4G32 exhaust valves to K heads, not much to be gained though fitting bigger

valves to K motors and the port to valve ratio is about right once ported, the ports limits the flow in these heads

not the valves.

 

But getting back to that 3K, can you get that dyno sheet, as that is easily the most powerful K motor in

australia:), and theres about a million reasons why it shoudn't even get anywhere near that power(its more

powerful than datsun a series motors and they have a much higher V/E rate)

 

Its somehow more effienct than madrollas motor and my motor with 200cc less capacity, not to

mention theres no way to stop the heat created by a turbocharger with draw-through.

I haven't even seen datsun L20 motors with larger cams/same 200rwkw capable turbocharger 20psi, get

anywhere near that power in draw through form with much larger flowing head and another 700cc capacity

Whens hegoing to race it?, in a ke10 that would be crazy

cheers

darren

Posted

this is only what i heard not seen, iv learnt a bit about the K type motor over the last two weeks and I'm starting to diss agree with this as well, maybe 100 HP of the fly at top end for a 4k, my friend just did a 5k, hot head and extractors, didnt come close, i think i got cond...ooops....y....

Posted
You can fit mitsubishi colt 4G32 exhaust valves to K heads, not much to be gained though fitting bigger

valves to K motors and the port to valve ratio is about right once ported, the ports limits the flow in these heads

not the valves.

 

But getting back to that 3K, can you get that dyno sheet, as that is easily the most powerful K motor in

australia:), and theres about a million reasons why it shoudn't even get anywhere near that power(its more

powerful than datsun a series motors and they have a much higher V/E rate)

 

Its somehow more effienct than madrollas motor and my motor with 200cc less capacity, not to

mention theres no way to stop the heat created by a turbocharger with draw-through.

I haven't even seen datsun L20 motors with larger cams/same 200rwkw capable turbocharger 20psi, get

anywhere near that power in draw through form with much larger flowing head and another 700cc capacity

Whens hegoing to race it?, in a ke10 that would be crazy

cheers

darren

 

 

Ill see if I can dig up the dyno sheet.

 

But why run mitsabushi valves when a little know secret is a bored 3K then re cut valve seats you can run stock K motor inlet valve as exhaust one and then intake think it is a gemini one that fits and whulah HUGE valves big port job flows good and only have to buy 4 valves as if old intake ones are good can be reused :rocknroll:

 

Camron

Posted
Ill see if I can dig up the dyno sheet.

 

But why run mitsabushi valves when a little know secret is a bored 3K then re cut valve seats you can run stock K motor inlet valve as exhaust one and then intake think it is a gemini one that fits and whulah HUGE valves big port job flows good and only have to buy 4 valves as if old intake ones are good can be reused :rocknroll:

 

Camron

 

 

Yep but there really no point in putting valves in them at all, plus you coudn't put mitsubishi valves on the

exhaust side and gemini on the intake, they would hit each other,They are very close with standard intake, mitsubishi exhaust valve.

Plus the intake and intake valve is not the restriction with any k motor head, the exhaust port is the biggest restriction and the valve/port ratio is pretty much spot on anyway, no good having the worlds biggest valves when they just hit restricted ports.

Would be good to see some flow figures of peoples ported heads woudn't it and see how much

people have got out of them, especially some of the old school racing guys that put them in the open wheelers

cheers

darren

Posted
these facts are only based on what the rac drivers father and 4 other drivers have told me. this is verry close to 100bhp, if it even was at the wheels, but still that will be a lot.

 

they are striped compleetly, head honed and faced to reach i think was 11.5:1. all stock head parts i.e. rockers and arm but high grade standard size valve as are used. the block is honed, stock flat top pistons with a littli off the bottom shaved off, piston rods not toutched and i don't know about the crank. flywweel is below safe for road use, its too weak but they don't leave 2nd gear. 1st than snap 2nd, some don't push the clutch in all the way.

 

now the cam used in the motor makes it sound like a V8 chainsaw, verry lumpy but has a buzz. stock outlet system to keep it fear but my friends dad does exhausts systems and gas for a living so more time spent on pipline than race prep. the exhaust manifold is stock but the pipe is whatever you likeand stops under the pasanger seat/half the car.

 

there is no fan on the motor its all electric and the carby is stock with the outside ofthe air filter housing cut away so the filter is exposed. i think a K&N is used. 4spd ke30 box and ke36 diff.

 

With the 2 BOLD items above there's no way this motor would make the 100rwhp even if its got head/bottom end work. But as you have just mentioned, you're already starting to realise yourself this is the case! :rocknroll:

 

As for this turbo 3k Cam :jamie: .........

Not that I don't believe you or anything as I know you're credable, but I'm very dubious about that.

Lets look at the facts:

Its a 3k, its carby, has no intercooler, points, not balanced or anything, and its running 19psi.

Compare that to Matt or Darrens setups.....5k's, EFI, Elecetronic or computer controlled ignition, interoolers, Matt's was stock bottom end Darren's had work, and running around 23psi.

Now this 3k apparently has 20 and 10kw respectively more......How does that work!?

Only other thing worth mentioning again in the 3k's favour is the fact it was dyno'd on avgas!

 

Are you sure it wasn't 166rwhp not kw Cam?

Posted

Didn't think of that TAZ, i recon your spot on, that would be about 115 -120rwkw, which would be pretty

much on the mark if everything worked properly, and would still be a absolutely awesome effort

out of that setup

matts bottom end is better for horsepower, he has more compression than mine, mine was just

stronger, if you combined the bits from our 2 setups, you would have the most powerful motor

Posted
matts bottom end is better for horsepower, he has more compression than mine, mine was just

stronger, if you combined the bits from our 2 setups, you would have the most powerful K motor

just needed to clarify that...

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