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Posted (edited)

Hey all, i jus got a thermo fan from a mate which i am pretty sure came off a starion. i want to know how to hook it up properly so it cuts in when it needs to, would be good if anyone could help.

 

and i am also looking at a weber 32/36 that is in the for sale section, if i got this and hooked it all up would there be much of a power difference?? do i have to get it re-jetted for a 1.3L (4K-C), are there any modifications i have to make for the throttle linkages etc etc... any help appreciated

 

Palmy

Edited by Palmy
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Posted

thermo switch options

 

1. get a thermoswitch setup which is adjustable and uses either probe through the radiator hose into the radiator or thermostat housing

or uses a barrel housing that gets put into your radiator hose (cut a section out the hose and clamp barrel in)

look at davies craig brand for thermoswitch.

look at speco brand for barrel

 

 

2. get a on off thermoswitch nut brazed into your radiator and use a thermoswitch to suit your on/off temps

look at tridon brand

Posted
put switch on dash and when it gets hot, turn fan on........

 

Bad idea if the person is forgetful.

 

Scenarios:

 

1. Switch gets left off, car overheats, pops a head gasket.

 

2. Switch gets left on, person parks car for the day, comes back to a now flat battery.

 

Not cool! (no pun intended) :dance:

Posted (edited)
put switch on dash and when it gets hot, turn fan on........

 

i was thinkin this as i have a non used switch in dash, and its also very easy

 

can i hook up a LED light so that when the LED comes on i will have to turn the thermo on??

Edited by Palmy
Posted
Bad idea if the person is forgetful.

 

Scenarios:

 

1. Switch gets left off, car overheats, pops a head gasket.

 

2. Switch gets left on, person parks car for the day, comes back to a now flat battery.

 

Not cool! (no pun intended) :dance:

 

hmmm sounds like me lol

 

use a relay so that the fan turns off when you turn the key off. just in case you forget

 

i rekon this is the go for me, hook up to switch and relay. I'm no electrics buff so easy is the go lol

Posted

I could get away with it on the club car as I only thrashed the shit out of it for a minute or two at a time :dance: Just used it while sitting waiting to start. Less current draw liberated a few extra horses.........

Posted (edited)

its not a good idea for most people to have an on/off switch, which should also run through a relay.

in fact there are many elements of the thermofan setup and different combinations....

 

i had a setup that was in the car when i bought it, the fan ran directly from the battery through a relay, the radiator had an adjustable thermoswitch probe, and a direct on/off switch for the whole circuit.

 

the switch was on most of the time so the fan came on automatically when needed and turned off when not needed.

but id be stuck in traffic on a hot day and the engine would get hot and id go to park and the thermo would be on

for ages when parked and flatten the battery, so i remebered most times to turn it off when parking but forgot a few

times when i was in a rush. then sometimes i would forget to turn it back on as well and the engine would

overheat on occassion not good...

 

see what i mean, and thats a half decent setup! after a few push starts and a few batteries later

(flats tend kill lead acid type below 3/4 charge) i wasnt happy with it.

 

some people run the thermo straight from the ignition or accessories on the barrel (ie no sensor), most times with a relay.

but this means the thermo is on all the time like a normal engine fan, so it will be on before the thermostat opens but that shouldnt be a long time. also a normal fan runs according to rpm which is more flow at higher rpm when the engine is hotter and less when colder.

the thermofan can only run full flow when its on. my friends engine seems to run a fair bit under operating temperature with the fan on all the time using this method though.

 

it seems a really a simple easy failproof setup, the only thing is that it would be running a lot of the time when not needed ie engine warming up (thermostat not open) or normal driving/freeway driving or winter and be drawing current and reducing the life of the fan quite a bit as they don't last as many hours as you would expect sometimes. so i suppose thats why they have an adjustable temp switch or thermoswitch in the radiator so:

 

engine warm

engine gets hot

thermostat opens

radiator gets warm normal driving/freeway

radiator gets hot on a strap/city driving/hot day

thermo comes on full blast and cools it down back to warm

thermo turns off until radiator hot again and cools it back to warm again

 

my new setup is going to be:

relay for fan

thermoswitch (tridon non adjustable type) in radiator

whole circuit runs from ignition on barrel

proper cooling setup (new radiator/good air supply/coolant flow good/new correct thermostat)

 

some peoples cars don't have enough or proper cooling and they have to pull over and cool down,

or park for a while with the fan on. while this may cool the radiator down the coolant isnt flowing

very much so its not really cooling the engine much except for the air circulating the engine bay and probably

lessens the overall heatsoak to an extent i imagine. this is usually a radiator problem, front air flow problem,

thermostat problem (thanks philbey) or a waterflow problem not a thermofan issue but some people try band

aid the problem.

 

also i don't know if i like that adjustable thermofan switch, its expensive, a bit fiddly and not the best design.

i much prefer the oem style thermoswitches which are simple and last for ages, they need a nut brazed into

the radiator or a barrel into the hose but once that is done they are small, cheap and easy to replace.

there are many temperature ranges and different hysteresis bands (the difference between on and off).

you can also get them from wreckers as a lot of cars had them oem, just make sure the threads are the same

and the range is suitable.

 

here check this out:

 

tridon switch catalogue

 

also i recommend using the water temp gauge in the engine not in the radiator as the thermostat takes

a while to open and if broken and not opening will read nothing although you engine is overheating,

also it more precise in that location.

 

and put the thermofan switch in radiator, not the engine as you don't want the thermofan on when the radiator

is cold and the switch is reading off the engine temperature. the engine thermostat will control the engine

temperature to the radiator and the thermofan will cool the radiator temperature.

 

thats my theroy so far :dance:

Edited by styler
Posted

thanks for all that info styler, now i have taken into consideration all the risks etc.

what setup would you reccomend me to have on my 4K-C?

and of all those switches, which is the one to get? lol

 

jus got 3 questions bout this weber carby:

will it give out a bit more power?

will it drink fuel much more?

will it make any kind of noise? (sucking etc lol)

Posted
some people run the thermo straight from the ignition or accessories on the barrel, most times with a relay.

but this means the thermo is on all the time when the cars running, hot or not and can take a while to get the

car warm from a cold start. i don't think this is the best solution as it takes the car a lot longer to warm up but

other than that it is really a simple easy failproof setup.

 

tridon switch catalogue

 

This shoudln't be the case if you have a working thermostat in the car. Perhaps a little longer, but it would be a marginal difference.

Posted

You can get thermo fan relay control kits form Supercheap or Autobarn etc...

Most will come with an adjustable temperature switch and relay, you can also add a manual override switch to have the thermos on if you want all the time.

 

As long as your relay trigger feed is leached from the accessories circuit then there are no worries of forgetting the thermo on.

Posted
This shoudln't be the case if you have a working thermostat in the car. Perhaps a little longer, but it would be a marginal difference.

 

true that, i think i must have had a much lower opening temp thermostat in my old car or

it was probably not working properly but as you say if you have a working thermostat

which is the right range then you shouldnt have the warming up problem, will amend post :yes:

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