lyonsy Posted January 3, 2005 Author Report Posted January 3, 2005 lol motor nothing short of no oil or water will kill it as it has the computer dizzy in and wont rev past 5500 and they hold together stock till 7500 normally Auto bloody strong got dumped in reverse at 120 dident lock the rear dident kill just made lots of oil smoke and drove away ( happend 9 months ago no noise) diff same as motor no oil or lots of single spiner burnout about it Body well nufin short of truck tree wombat or sledge hammer but id lay momey it could at least be driven home (mate had one took 3 tree's out at 100clicks before the 4th stoped it and dident drive it home only due to no water in rad they can be killed but it take's much effort lol and yes iv tried most of that as well but anther storie Quote
lyonsy Posted January 3, 2005 Author Report Posted January 3, 2005 (edited) hey more reseach more hours etc what are the t 18's like apart from stronger diff and bigger motor from what i can find out they basicly the same as ae71 ae86 and ke70 are box steering but can be changed cheaply later on are they just a 2 door version of the ae71 but different motor and whats the better one of the 2 as these could solve the tool box problem if so required *edited cause of tiredness* Edited January 3, 2005 by lyonsy Quote
Super Jamie Posted January 3, 2005 Report Posted January 3, 2005 you're pretty much right about t18s there Quote
lyonsy Posted January 4, 2005 Author Report Posted January 4, 2005 k so basicly the same all round apart from body shapes and engines. So what are the strong points of each car or are they all pretty much the same fuel performnce weight cababilty etc. And what are the body's like to rust some more prone then other's and i take it the te71 wasent reased here only the te72 or just not in ae86 shape? mark Quote
Super Jamie Posted January 4, 2005 Report Posted January 4, 2005 correct. all corollas from 1978 onwards rust pretty badly if uncared for. check the front of the bonnet, the guards, the bottom of the windscreens, the pillars, the roof, the boot, the chassis rails. anywhere water pools or any fold in the metal Quote
lyonsy Posted January 4, 2005 Author Report Posted January 4, 2005 (edited) thanks so i need to buy one from the simpson desert so i get no rust any where lol which motor is in the t18 as well thanks for awnsering all my questions to it is appreciated mark Edited January 4, 2005 by lyonsy Quote
lyonsy Posted January 4, 2005 Author Report Posted January 4, 2005 hey i just found a ke25 2 door with a 4age in it what should i look out of for when i take a look at and how hard is it to get a eng report on them ie just a pad upgrade or ra60 struts etc. now there rack steering are they but leaf spring (ill get over it) it looks from pics to have rust in left sill left door right door has been bent slightly from hit on gard rust behind back wheel at bootom of 1/4 panel left side etc usual spots for something this old. also how strong are there diff's and can they be upgraded say ke70 panelvan diff? thanks mark Quote
Super Jamie Posted January 4, 2005 Report Posted January 4, 2005 it's not a red one with orange-peeled paint is it? stay away if so. call an engineer in your area to find out about engineering. rust in the same spots, but 25s are made of better metal so they don't rust as bad. ke25 has steering box. the diff is weak if you drive hard, but you'll need to shorten anything else you put in it, may as well go to the effort putting a t18 diff in it, then you can use japanese ae86 lsd Quote
lyonsy Posted January 4, 2005 Author Report Posted January 4, 2005 (edited) if you mean the one from toymods thats orange then yes from what ive been able to find out its had a prelimenary engineer's so i should at least be able to find out what it will need from that. thanks for the info mark Edited January 4, 2005 by lyonsy Quote
lyonsy Posted January 4, 2005 Author Report Posted January 4, 2005 nah mate its original orange from look of it and in victoria http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=m...18a1f4e76aa49d5 and youll find pics there not sure how to put pics on the forums yet he wants 2500 for it and aparently came from sa so whats wrong with that red one body stuffed mark Quote
lyonsy Posted January 5, 2005 Author Report Posted January 5, 2005 (edited) I'm selling due to upgrading to a newer car. Its in reasonable good condition for its age, minumal dents and rust! all work has been professionaly done (over $6k in receipts). The motor and gear box (5sp) is from a Jap Spec AE86 (sprinter), motor has done roughly 110,000kms, the body has 2??,???kms on it. It has been tidied up quiet abit since i bought it, the dash was f@$ked, its now got a brand new like dash pad, not one crack/mark etc on it, it had gauges everywhere, no heater, glove box, everything is back to stock standard, interior wise except the fix back bucket sparco seats, it now has a rear seat also, cos the fuel pump was to loud in the boot hehehe There is new moulded carpet, four (4) new firestone tyres. Changed filters, oil, coolant, plugs, leads etc last week. Has shelbys front sway bar, new pedders gas ryder shocks in the back, 2" exhaust, with cat converter Only a few minor things to complete this little rocket are, re-attach head lining, and give it a fresh coat of paint. Everything has been made/modded for intention to road register it in the future, or it would make an excellent track/rally car. Also, it has rack and pinion steering out of an AE92 corolla, turns on a dim, and is light as a feather, it almost feels like it has power steering! The front brakes/struts are from a TA22 celica (230mm disc's), and a later model corolla diff with TA22 drums on the rear, pulls up very nice, hydrolic clutch/pedal from a mazda MX5. Any other questions regarding the car, pleae email or call me. i am so getting over trying to find info on cars when people can say go here have a look i found a bit more again the driver's door just been replaced the more i find on car the more tempting it is trying to get a copy of the prelimanary engineer's it supose to of had any comment's thanks mark Edited January 5, 2005 by lyonsy Quote
demuire Posted January 5, 2005 Report Posted January 5, 2005 Nothing really "wrong" with the red one, per se. It's just had a fairly hard life (used to be a rally car) so could probably do with a proper rebuild etc. Also the engine that was put into it last time I saw it was a bit dodgy (4AGE with quad mikuni's) as far as I've head. Very well set up car otherwise. As far as the orange one goes, it doesn't look too bad from the photos (mind you photos don't show much), and with the equipment etc that's on the car $2500 doesn't sound too bad. That said, I'm not sure what KE25's are worth these days. Quote
lyonsy Posted January 5, 2005 Author Report Posted January 5, 2005 yeah iam hoping to get down to around 2 but with everything done to it will still be cheap at 2500 but whould be around $4000 by the time i got it on the road after engineer reg insurence not bad at $405 3rd party (just cars) thinking seriously at haveing a look this weekend what do ke25 normal weigh anyway thanks mark Quote
Super Jamie Posted January 5, 2005 Report Posted January 5, 2005 760kg. if i sold my 25 now i'd want more than that for it, so it's a good price. call an engineer and see if this is do-able, or you're going to have to spend alot more money than you have. this is a cool little car :thumbsup: oh btw, suncorp do me 5 grand full comp (50% no claim) on my 25 for $220 a year. just cars, shannons, etc are good if you have a mad turbo or import car that nobody else will insure, but for just a modified 30+ yearold aussie car i'd be inclined to call around? Quote
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