Ke20 Diff Replacement

[bulletsnz]

Hi all

 

I am trying to find a replacement diff for my ke20.I want a stronger one that I don't have to

change stud pattern or shorten.I have read through this forum but can't find any thing.I have

heard that ta22 or liteace ones fit but I am not sure any help appreciated cheers.

[Redwarf]

Didn't look super hard then, did you? :hmm:

 

Start here http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...18428&st=15 which is one of the later threads on this topic, and have a read through some of the members ride sections.

 

TA22 wont bolt in, as the spring platforms are for coils. Leaf platforms will have to be added. Stud pattern will also change.

 

If you want to keep the 20 pattern, you may have to look at Mazda diffs, as they predominately have the same stud pattern. (4 x 110) Investigated this for about 2.5 minutes and then wrecked my other rally car, and thus my 25 has a t series diff with 4.77 LSD from the grunter. (4 x 114.3 pattern).

 

I don't like you luck at being able to bolt a mazda diff in, as I think you would probably have to change the spring mounts in some way.

 

Cheers

 

R

[bulletsnz]

They don't have to bolt in I can weld mounts on

[Redwarf]

If you don't want to change stud pattern I'd be chasing RX2/3 and going over it with a tape measure.

[coln72]

or early rx7

[bulletsnz]

I heard carona ones fit am I wrong?

Edited March 18, 2008 by bulletsnz

[Redwarf]

Different stud pattern.

[styler]

there isnt a stronger diff that fits the ke20 / ke25.

 

nothing fits without minor to major modification.

 

the ke20 / ke25 diff is

 

narrow at 1320mm mounting face to mounting face

has leaf sprung suspension

has the early jap 110mm pcd

uses drum brakes

 

you wont find a stronger diff with the above specs trust me i have tried and

the only thing close is equal in strength or possibly slightly stronger if at all.

 

it can't be done.

 

what can be done is modify a diff to suit, if you do this you might as well

go the distance and do it properly first time. it costs a lot but its done right

and wont break.

 

you can get:

 

stronger housing

bigger stronger centre

stronger axles

bigger bearings

possibly lsd

more ratios

better pcd

better drum brakes or disc

 

work out what you want or need from the above list and then go from there,

it starts at early t series diffs and ends up at ford 9 inch diffs.

[bulletsnz]

Dam hoped it wouldn't come to this,oh well time

to start saving cheers.

 

Second thought is there anything the same width

with a different stud pattern?

Edited April 1, 2008 by bulletsnz

[styler]

narrowest diff with aftermarket lsd option is ta22 celica at 1355mm.

next is alfa 104/105? diff at 1360mm with factory lsd and probably

aftermarket lsd avaliable.

then theres the early hilux rn10, rn20, rn25 with 1370mm and factory and

aftermarket lsd avalaible.

then theres heaps more and it keeps getting wider and wider.....

 

only a bit wider wont need cutting down. you have 5 options:

 

1. it will require narrower rims / tyres. this may not be adequate for the power

of the car (traction) or grip.

 

2. use wider rims tyres for more traction and grip. fit them in there by using more

positive offset to keep them under the guards inthe rear. theres a problem though,

too much positive offset on wider rims will have them hit the front struts and not

even bolt up. and the track gets changed if you have a wider diff which can be a

problem but some say its not a big issue. so you have to workout what rims at what

width and offset will work in the front AND rear with the particular diff - wheel arch/lip,

struts, turning lock to lock, inner rear arch clearance etc.

 

3. use mismatched offsets in reverse, ie run a more positive offset in the rear to get them

further in and tucked under the guards and a less positive offset in the front to move them

out away from hitting the struts. it would look funny with most rims but with some superlites

the offset is from behind the hub not on the wheel band and the outer face stays the same

with different offsets so it wouldnt appear any different. this option would keep your track

closer to normal. and you can swap wheels from side to side but not front and rear obviously.

 

4. use matched positive offset rims to suit the rear and run spacers at the front to move them

away from the strut. floating spacers are illegal although loads of people use them, i wouldnt.

they arent hub concentric as they are generic oversize and rely on the wheel studs for the

loading which is incorrect. not only that but its not even a shear force on the studs as it would

be with rims without spacers that arent hub concentic but its worse as the spacer moves the rim

outwards and applies a higher leverage force as well. this also keeps track closer to normal.

 

5. use matched postive offset rims to suit front and rear with proper bolt on spacers made to

spec with correct hub locating spigot. last time i checkedthese were legal if made properly.

this also keeps track closer to normal.

 

you can play around with these options, some arent really a good proper solution in my opinion.

 

or

 

you can get you diff shortened with these options:

 

1. you can get your diff cut down and axles cut down if its a small amount, around 10mm a

side max probably (depends on spline length)

 

2. get diff cut down a lot and axles resplined, around 10mm min diff and 40mm for axles

(check spline and taper for suitability though)

 

note sometimes you can use different axles with same specs except spline and length if the

original ones arent suitable for cutting down or resplining.

Edited April 3, 2008 by styler

[Raven]

Has anyone researched whether or not a TA22/23 Celica diff has equal length axles or not?

Edited April 3, 2008 by Raven

[styler]

i can get ta22 axle length from mounting face to end of spline if you like, i have an axle in the shed.

thats if you want to compare ta22 to ta23?

 

else they are equal length axles as in side to side if thats what your asking.

Edited April 3, 2008 by styler

[Raven]

Yeah, thats what I was asking, if they were equal length. If they weren't, then you could get away with just shortening one side to fit it in if you wanted to keep the stock track :abuse:

[styler]

yeah interesting you say that, i know of a few diffs where it can be done. it could work out a

lot less for the whole job i reckon, especially if you use a short axle for the modified side and

don't have to get one shortened.

 

funny thing also is that a lot of stock axles have a long spline length and can either engage

the stock spline section at the same spot or slightly different spots, but it seems aftermarket lsd

often engages different areas along the spline, so you have to make a long spline section on both

axles for them to be equal length (identical spec overall) and be interchangable. this is a problem

when you have only a small section of useable area to respline as i found out. you respline an

axle and it ends up suiting the one side but not the other and you have to go and find different axles

that with more useable area to have interchangable axles. who would have thought out of all the different

measurements the bloody lsd spider gear splines would be different to stock position. fun times haha