waterbased Posted March 5, 2008 Report Posted March 5, 2008 hye... i am from malaysia, which is located @ south east asia. i own ke20 2drs. how i want to check my engine type. is there any number or shape represent the type. since there are combination heads and block, i can't determine the actual capacity and its hard for me to make some mods. :( i hope we can share some info. thx.. Quote
Des Posted March 5, 2008 Report Posted March 5, 2008 In Australia KE20 corolla's had a 3K which is a 1200cc push rod 4 cylinder. It will have a number and letter on the block, Back of the block near the gearbox on the distributor side. Quote
waterbased Posted March 5, 2008 Author Report Posted March 5, 2008 yup.. there is a letter A on the head wall. does it mean this is an A type engine? :( how bout the capacity? am i going to measure the block bore and stroke? or is there any other solution? below is one of the engine pix. i'll send another later. Quote
Des Posted March 5, 2008 Report Posted March 5, 2008 That is a K series motor. Look on the block, It will have either K, 3K, 4K, 5K or 7K. It might be written on a plate on the firewall too. Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted March 5, 2008 Report Posted March 5, 2008 (edited) Looks like an early 3K BUT has a 4K styled rocker cover with screw in cap SO could be a 4K runnign stock early dizzy normally found on 3K's. But for certain I can say has a red catch can, choke cable looks like it isn't in original holder spot, runs a K powered van intake on it (put a pod filter on :( ) and has a missing aircon belt and is a flat top piston model. The K letter will be on the block to the left of the dizzy if your looking towards the motor with it slanting away from you. Cameron Edited March 5, 2008 by camerondownunder88 Quote
coln72 Posted March 5, 2008 Report Posted March 5, 2008 ......and a shit load of gasket goo under the head.... Quote
waterbased Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Posted March 6, 2008 Looks like an early 3K BUT has a 4K styled rocker cover with screw in cap SO could be a 4K runnign stock early dizzy normally found on 3K's. But for certain I can say has a red catch can, choke cable looks like it isn't in original holder spot, runs a K powered van intake on it (put a pod filter on :) ) and has a missing aircon belt and is a flat top piston model. The K letter will be on the block to the left of the dizzy if your looking towards the motor with it slanting away from you. Cameron before i use the bottle, the hose from the rocker cover connected to the waste pipe (just behind the bottle). but there is some problem with the piping when the machine goes to high rev which is the hose will pull off from the pipe. maybe the pipe stuck by the carbon dung. I'm not sure bout the choke cable.. is it at the wrong spot?? if so... where it should be?? :( previously i remove the aircond unit to ease me to do some body works to the interior, where i have to repair the leakage. i've look into the motor.. and there is toyotapet logo and number 54.. what does it mean?? Quote
waterbased Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Posted March 6, 2008 ......and a shit load of gasket goo under the head.... yeah... i got my lessons... never put much gasket silicon gum. previously there is a gasket leakage and coolant liquid get into the pistons. this is my first time i remove the head from the block. and 2nd lessons... i must test the valve leakage after i grind it. so now.. i'm not satisfied with her performance. my timing going worst, up and down. is there any solution for the unstable timing.?? :( Quote
coln72 Posted March 6, 2008 Report Posted March 6, 2008 You just used gasket goo :( to repair the head gasket!!!!!!! If you didn't use a head gasket, get one and redo it quick. If you did, you shouldn't need any goo at all. Quote
waterbased Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Posted March 6, 2008 You just used gasket goo :( to repair the head gasket!!!!!!! If you didn't use a head gasket, get one and redo it quick. If you did, you shouldn't need any goo at all. please forgive me.... what do u mean by "goo"... different region used different phrase to describe something. do u mean the glue... or silicon.?? i replace the old head gasket with the new one and i used gasket "lacquer"(i used to call it lacquer coz the colour looks like that, but i don't even know it real name) and small amount of silicon. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 7, 2008 Report Posted March 7, 2008 goo, goop, gasket bog, silicon,....all the same stuff. :) Pretty much all head gaskets have a form of goop (as I call it) "built into them", so its not necessary to any more from a tube. As they get hot for the first time, the seal themselves up. Only thing I have ever put on a head gasket aswell was a spray of "copper gasket" areasol spray for one of my turbo motors. Porr mans copper gasket!! :( Did you get the head planed flat again when you took it off? Quote
waterbased Posted March 7, 2008 Author Report Posted March 7, 2008 goo, goop, gasket bog, silicon,....all the same stuff. :) Pretty much all head gaskets have a form of goop (as I call it) "built into them", so its not necessary to any more from a tube. As they get hot for the first time, the seal themselves up. Only thing I have ever put on a head gasket aswell was a spray of "copper gasket" areasol spray for one of my turbo motors. Porr mans copper gasket!! :( Did you get the head planed flat again when you took it off? thanks taz.. so much infos i gain here. i really don't know they have their own "built in" goo. :n: yup... i planed the head and block with the steel brush. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 7, 2008 Report Posted March 7, 2008 Umm... you cleaned the head a block with a steel brush! :) When ever you take a head off any motor you should always get it planed back a little so its all straight again. Alloy heads will warp if you get a bit of heat into them. Block aren't normally as bad as most are cast iron, but can still happen. Any machinist workshop can do this for you, cost me AUD$44, so would be about USD$37-38. Its just not worth not planed the head if you've blown a head gasket. I did it ONCE and blew another one a week later. :( Never again. :n: Quote
waterbased Posted March 7, 2008 Author Report Posted March 7, 2008 Umm... you cleaned the head a block with a steel brush! :n: When ever you take a head off any motor you should always get it planed back a little so its all straight again. Alloy heads will warp if you get a bit of heat into them. Block aren't normally as bad as most are cast iron, but can still happen. Any machinist workshop can do this for you, cost me AUD$44, so would be about USD$37-38. Its just not worth not planed the head if you've blown a head gasket. I did it ONCE and blew another one a week later. :( Never again. :lolcry: really?? it means i would never brush the head so hard rite?? :lolcry: i think i have make mistake there... :) when i finish planed the head and block, i put it together without head gasket and there have a bit of allowance between them(bout 0.1-0.2mm)... i didnt know how to describe it.... but what i can see that the head may not straight enuff. looks like the head tilt a bit. but when i put head gasket between them the allowance didnt occurs. am i going to have replaned the head again or it just allrite.. :bash: Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.