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Posted

Just got quoted $2,500 to do the boot opening on my car properly (5 year warantee). Compared to the $400 I got quoted from another guy.. clearly the guy I went to will do it properly for that price...

 

Anyway, Chris, here are pictures of the exhaust..

post-5027-1216878863_thumb.jpg

post-5027-1216878876_thumb.jpgDo you reckon we can chuck it straight onto my 70?

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Posted

5K is in. We pissed off the C in 4K-C and put some muffler cement (I think it's called?) on the end of the pipe that puts the exhaust back into the engine but it fell off when we ran the car. So we're leaving it overnight and gonna see if it works tomorrow. Extractors aren't on obviously but when they are I'll try and get a video up just to show how they sound. I was going to take a picture but... it doesn't look much different from a 4k haha.

Posted

Can't see it in the photos but me and dad had to try and get the exhaust out of the panelvan from underneath the car with a grinder at night so the cut was at an angle... don't suppose that matters, does it? It will get welded back together anyway? Here are the extractors and muffler:

post-5027-1217424762_thumb.jpg

post-5027-1217424775_thumb.jpg

Will be cool to get them on... I loved how they sounded on the panelvan.

 

Also buying a 32/36 weber off Chrisandliz. Gonna get it rebuilt if money permits.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

As always, a huge thanks to Chris for selling me a 32/36 DGAV Weber. He said it was off a Cortina I think? Which I think he said is a 1.6.

 

I was really excited when I got it. With instructions from Chris, I went home, cleaned it all up with some carby cleaner and attempted to install it all myself. It was so much fun... really starting to get into working on these cars. The thing that was pissing me off was the fuel line from the fuel pump... it has these two weird nuts on either end... I was trying to use an adjustable spanner but it just doesn't do the job. So I ended up just getting the carby off and spinning it around by hand.

 

I didn't have a vice grip and so was screwing around for 2 hours trying to find a way to get one... finally got one and got the headless bolts out. Got the heat shield, adapator plate, carby and gaskets on and realised I didn't know how to fit the return spring or it's bracket onto the carby so I had to get Chris to give me a hand with it (cheers Chris!).

 

The fuel return outlet (bronze thing) can be spun around with pressure from my fingers so it's causing a fuel leak. I put a rag around it and tied it up tight, but the rag just got soaked after a drive. I rang up a few places.. most of them mentioned super glue...

 

Something else I noticed was that the accelerator pedal is so much easier to depress with all the fiddling around with the throttle cable and the nuts on it.. a lot more fun than before.

 

Anyway, it works well on the 5k considering I have no idea how old/what kinda condition it is in. The one thing I did notice was that when I got into the higher gears and I gave it a bit of throttle, it wouldn't accelerate.. it was like one big flat spot or something. If I didn't accelerate too hard it was alright but I'm very curious as to what this would be... Rang up a place and they said to check the advance and the fuel line. Will do that soon..

 

Here is a vid of it running.

Edited by Mybowlcut
Posted

Hm... I fixed the fuel return leak... but then the fuel line that supplied fuel to the carby started leaking... and there was also a leak from one of the gaskets... so I'm taking it off. :( I'll get the money back though cause I haven't paid Chris yet haha. I'll buy something else off him like ra60 struts... :P

Posted
you should just pull the weber apart and put a kit through it aye, thatd stop the gasket stuff and make it run a shit load better, do you know why it was leaking?

 

Travis

Yeah but I don't have the time or money to do it. I had to take today off work just to get it done... I dunno why it was leaking hey.

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