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Posted

Hi,

As you know I am currently working to get a KE15 on the road with a rebuilt 5K in it.

 

Now this motor I bought rebuilt. Put in KE30 ran it pulled it out put it in the KE15. Now I am using a 0.8KW KE70 starter with more up right solenoid. I run pace maker extractors for a KE1X and twin carby KE15 intake with rebuilt carbies.

 

Now initially I was cranking and dad said it has no spark. Dad couldn't see the spark.LOL But before I found this out I changed the dizzy, plugs, leads, did a bit of a tidy on the electrical wires, checked timing, made sure it was firing on the compression BANG stroke so it wouldn't back fire through carby etc.

 

Went to crank it again. And it did like half a revolution and stopped :D

 

So got the shits spent 2 arvos changing the starter to another new KE70 one I have NO DIFFERENCE. There is also nothing stuck in the bell housing I checked that while I was down there.

 

I have also COPIED the original KE1X loom for the starter with 4 gauge cable and new terminals etc. The car runs a new battery also. And I tried hooking 2 batteries together so it can draw more amps at 12V using jumper leads bit more bang but still NO GO.

 

Car will crank with spark plugs out no issues even fast enough to turn off the charge and oil light :thumbsup:

 

Now I install the spark plugs pure methanol I have down both carbies and try to crank does about half a turn till it hits compression and goes I'm stopping. I did get 2 pops out of it once wen methanol lit so umm can anyone help have ideas on how to fix it or start it?

 

I need help I'm out of ideas.

 

 

Cheers

Cameron

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Posted

Hi,

I have tried 3 dizzy's. Stock 5K electric one a adjustable KE1X one and a KE30 bosch one. Still wont crank. I have double checked dizzy timing heaps I know it is right at the oil pump aligns with the dot inside the block cylinder one is on the fire part of its stroke and cylinder 4 is on the rock. I know the dizzzy is in right.

 

The motor with spark plugs in and dizzy out I have tried this wont crank still I didn't try this for long as the oil pump wont spin with dizzy out but motor only did half a turn so all was good.

 

Oil pump I have checked I can freely turn it with a screw driver and it makes oil pressure so wont be that either.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Posted

Hi,

This arvo got some testing done more. Got out the spark plugss again..LOL And did a compression test. Gauge was a cheap on near the dizzy was had for my dad to hold it in and get a good seal due to gauge design so there rough but close enopugh.

 

Cyclinders:

1. 200 PSI

2. 190 PSI

3. 170 PSI

4. 200 PSI

 

So not to bad and not really that high.

 

When cranking the battery drops to 8.5 ~ 8.9 Volts my multi meter said.

 

Didn't get time to clean up earth and redo it. I have left over 4gauge and more terminals so I will make a nice big earth lead ont eh weekend and see what goes down.

 

But what is the average voltage of a battery when cranking?

 

Cheers

Cameron

Posted
200psi, that's a shitload Cameron, when this engine does start I think it is going to go bang pretty quick if you have not got your tune perfect. Sounding like you need a reduction geared starter, slow cranks but will start. Had one on my 360 Hemi years ago, slow crank but that is only because of the high compression 13.5:1 (in my case). It's abit worrying that 2 cylinders add to 20% down, sounds like two are loose or the other two are tight. Who machined this block? You have whacked oil down the cylinders (just a little bit), don't be tempted to use aerostart for f@$ks sake. Is bad gear, the death of many engines.

The other thing you can try is to wind it over for awhile with the plugs out, helps get the rings to bed and as it is not running you don't have to worry about it seizing due to heat from combustion. Might even things out a little, just make sure that the oil pressure comes up and you are using an old starter you don't care about cooking.

 

check that your wires can handle the amps of this new battery as i found out in my 86 too many volts too many shitty wires lol

Posted

Hi,

Well up dates :)

 

Got to test battery again today. Pulled the battery out of dads torana put it in my KE15. It is the same make and model of the one I have in my KE15 so was a good one to test against. We cranked it. Spun slowly and dropped to 6V while cranking :dance:

 

But this battery can start a 6 cylinder rebuilt shaved head torana so we tried my KE15 battery in dads car. The battery was down from last nights cranking and I didn't charge it. It cranked my dads car no problems and dropped to 11V.

 

So that rules out my battery. I think it will be the wires in the car. I have redone the +ve side from starter to battery so Ill do the earth side on the weekend.

 

As when cranking I gout out negative wire to battery was hot my new 4 gauge +ve wire to battery not hot normal. So definatly a problem here.

 

Also Sbox the motor I bought rebuilt and not run in for $30 this 5K. I put it in my KE30 and ran it in and all put a few KM on it as was doing 111km a day. The motor was in for 3 weeks. I ended up having cam shaft issues with it. The cam snapped and jammed on the front and advanced its self 15 degrees STILL RAN BUT..Lol So had great power from 2000RPM to 3000RPM after that motor struggled to run. I have now installed a new cam and push rods and lifters so that is all fixed now. But the cylinders that are down was hard to get out compression meter in those spark plug holes as out tester you hold down n the car. Hard to do that on a K motor with recessed spark plug holes and a dizzy in the way. SO there not accurate numbers on 2,3 cylinder and my mechanic testing the compression while it was in my KE30 and said all cylinders are OK so I mean I'm happy. As a K motor manual says that a stock K motor should be 170PSI cranking at 250 RPM mine yesterday lowest cylinder was this value so I am not worried about the CR.

 

As for aero start no I never touch that crap either.

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