Jason Posted January 11, 2005 Author Report Posted January 11, 2005 (edited) got my kill switch in the mail to day its HUGE i though i was going to be able to mount it in the lighter :P Mounted the the bay fuse box, tight fit. Clears the light easy have to yank the cover off though, but o well. connected the box up to the battery wire. Started 1st coat of white on my boot, its all good except were the rag blew on it :dry: AHHHH WEB SHOTS SUCKS!!!!! Ill have to make another acount Fixed Edited January 11, 2005 by Jason Quote
demuire Posted January 11, 2005 Report Posted January 11, 2005 Or use http://www.fotki.com I've used them for a few years now, they're excellent. You can get a 10Mb (?) free account, or you can pay for an unlimited account with more features. Quote
demuire Posted January 11, 2005 Report Posted January 11, 2005 Few things about your killswitch. 1) It's best put somewhere within reach of the driver, while strapped in. I guess that isn't so important in a daily driver sort of car, but it's still best in the cabin somewhere. After all that's when you want to kill the power - when you crash and burn somewhere. You don't have to want to get out of the car and pop the bonnet... 2) Make sure you heavily insulate those terminals on the back of the killswitch. It even sparks through thin layers of electrical tape. 3) I'd be inclined to run the cable IN the engine bay instead of in the wheelwell, unless you had either big insulation around the cable, or had something to protect the cable... 4) Nice work, otherwise :P Quote
Jason Posted January 11, 2005 Author Report Posted January 11, 2005 I'm eventually going to put some of that plastic tubby stuff around it, its kinda of like that curly cable protect stuff... But better you just zip tie it up. So it will be nice and protected. The kill switch will be mounted around the gearstick/CD rack were every it will fit :P webshots is unlimited but there been some uploads problem :) so i got a new account and its all fixed Quote
Jason Posted January 15, 2005 Author Report Posted January 15, 2005 (edited) Bord out of my Fuc*king brain right now so i decide to upload these. Custum Dash Brackets teddy and i manged to get away with a 1mX20cm piece of 5mm thick aluminum from SIMs. I'm making the back plating for the oil temp and boot gauge out of it, as well as filling in the space were the T18 dash doesn't fill up. The EGO read out and shift lights will go along the bottom. I have the space so what the hell i might aswell do it. 3 progressive stages so i will be able to set at at EG 7000, 7500 and 8000 main lights come on once it hits the optimum RPM. o crap I'm tired but i can't go to bed, riding around flat out on my bike for 2 hours around aspley caring 50kg more, of broaches/catalogs really does its thing :dry: o well i get the $$$ for it. Horry $90 this week Edited January 15, 2005 by Jason Quote
Jason Posted January 16, 2005 Author Report Posted January 16, 2005 (edited) Cut out the face plate almost finished just have to sand it to make it flat, i think the bottom lip is a little high (it has jumped up it photo though) Edited January 16, 2005 by Jason Quote
Jason Posted January 17, 2005 Author Report Posted January 17, 2005 OK here how i stand ATM. Boot just been resprayed by me, its o..k.. But it isn't up to my standards (there just way too high :P ) and now I'm think, how good of job can i get with a gun? I know there is shit loads of preparation, but.... Is it worth it? Instead of paying a fortune to get it done in a shop. How do i remove the paint to prime it. I'm sure as hell don't want to use paint stripper. Although it would be bad with a angle grinder brush. Well that to far in the future any way. I want to start on this rust, its killing me. Most of the guard has to come off, as there more rust underneath that was covered in thick dirt. So now it time for some serious fiber glassing. Should i make the mold first? Before i cut, other wise there wont be any lip to attach it to the body. Whats the BEST method to use. Don't matter if it takes twice as long, I'm willing to put in the hours/days/weeks um.. maybe not weeks but still. There is also MORE rust in the gutters, how should i attack that. I was planning to remove all the bog with a small wire brush. Then what more bog? or paint it? Thats all i really feel like thinking about right now. Quote
demuire Posted January 17, 2005 Report Posted January 17, 2005 If you're looking for the best method, replace metal with metal, not fibreglass. And no, you don't have to strip the paint to put new paint on. You can just rub it down, prime and paint. Lots of people seem to be under the impression that "strip and paint" is the only way to do it, it isn't, and there are very rarely any advantages of doing it that way. In fact, there are many disadvantages, among them that there is a lot more preperation involved. Quote
Medicine_Man Posted January 17, 2005 Report Posted January 17, 2005 The reason people take it back to bare metal and use a primer, is to get the surface as straight and smooth as possible. When your rub back your primer and you can see a nice semi gloss you know the paint job will look a million bucks.. Quote
Jason Posted January 17, 2005 Author Report Posted January 17, 2005 If you're looking for the best method, replace metal with metal, not fiberglass. so go i just have to find a donor part to tack weld it in? Quote
demuire Posted January 17, 2005 Report Posted January 17, 2005 Yes, or do what Wayno did on Rob's Bluedwarf :P Quote
Jason Posted January 29, 2005 Author Report Posted January 29, 2005 Ive been reading through some fiber glassing guides. OK this is how i think i will do it. PLEASE tell me if I'm wrong. Make a 1 layer mold of the guard as is, just fill the rust spots with card board to make it smooth. Once it has drayed cut off the rusted area's. Then clean were the mold will 'glue' to the body. Then build up the layers until its thick and strongly attached to the body. ? I'm not betting that i can find a rear guard with no rust on any time soon, so i have to bite the bullet. Quote
demuire Posted January 29, 2005 Report Posted January 29, 2005 Or you can just get a sheet of 1mm steel and cut and shape it to fit. Not that hard really, I did that to a few sections of Hal. Quote
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