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Posted

How cheap? If its already mapped for a GZE go for it otherwise avoid. I've got that exact ECU in my 86 and its OK for what it is. Unless your going to go nuts with the GZE, stay with the stock ECU. As with all aftermarket ECU's, you will sacrifice driveability for performance (starts 3rd time, every time).

Posted (edited)

did some measuring today

 

steering arms blots from the Ae71 are 1mm difference apart. Bugger, o well.

 

Theres 5mm difference between steering arms lengths.

 

The also the corona steering arm hole for the arms, is 1 mm bigger

 

The reason I'm want to go aftermarket ECU, is that i don't want to run a AFM, but the bigports didn't come out in MAP. ANd every ones says not to run a big port on a small port ECU

Edited by Jason
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

does any body know a rough cost to get a wind screen out without braking it? And putting it back in?

 

Gonna do some ringing around today, who should i stick with?

Posted

ok.

 

Gona start geting the motor stogether on sunday, do i need to geta spring compressor get the the valves spinrg out? If so how much would that be, just that its a real dirty biatch. And I'm gona do a little 'cleaning' of it :moon:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Holy crap these holidays have com up fast!

 

Well getting a welder out next week, so i can do some hard core crash coarse body work :)

 

Already made up some of the 'jig saw' pieces from the shell of the microwave nick gave me :)

 

does it really matter what type of metal you use to reweld the body, some were i herd if you use different types of metal it will rust? or is it just BS

 

 

AND the good new keeps coming my mums BF (the welder) has a MIG :)

Edited by Jason
Posted

different metals together promotes increased oxidisation of one of the metals

 

this is used to advantage on boat engines, where copper lumps are just bolted to the engine. the copper rusts first because it's more reactive, thereby saving the rest of the engine. when the copper is sufficiently corroded, you replace the sacrificial lump with a new one

 

if you use mild steel or tin to fix your corolla, you should be right

 

of course, oxidisation occurs because the two metals can react with oxygen, so as long as you prime the job and paint it before the porous primer has a chance to absorb enough moisture to start rusting the car again (about 3 months), you'll be fine

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well got a welder, time to start repairng pannels :D

 

Also i think the preivouse owner of my gze messed with the throtle body :P

 

Its got this metal plate over what i think is ment to by an auxilery air bypass valve ? Can any one enlighten me?

post-54-1119007504.jpg

Edited by Jason
Posted

If I'm not mistaken that's for the cold air idle. Normally you plumb coolant lines into there. I've got mine plated as well, cause I'm not running those lines.

Posted

Well after having the welder for 3 days now, Ive completed 1 and 1/2 guard skins, front quarter rust spot and some under body rust.

 

Today about the only day Ive been welding for more than 2 hours :)

 

I'm happy they way my super ammeter welding came out

post-54-1119250125.jpg

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