Medicine_Man Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 Wow, Thats crazy stuff, Will be nuts to see it going.. Quote
Jason Posted July 27, 2008 Author Report Posted July 27, 2008 I carnt believe I'm being help up by a thermometer. I need one to calibrate the temp sensors. I was an idoit and flashed the ecu and now franticly looking for my old ecu map saves to get it from there. Quote
Jason Posted July 27, 2008 Author Report Posted July 27, 2008 I didnt manage to get it running because of all the messing around with the sensor. I pulled out the water which cost me about 2hr because i have to remover the crank sensor brackets (on-off). I finely found the temp sensor maps from the old tune. Â It only needs about 10cm of fuel pipe to get it running now. Quote
Jason Posted August 3, 2008 Author Report Posted August 3, 2008 (edited) broooom atttaataatataaaatattat broooooooooom. Â Either smokey or very ritch... hoping rich. Started 1st time which is nice. Â All I had time for this weekend. Fixing fuel leaks took me a while. Â Â And thanks to utube for totally destroying the quality, looks like camera phone. WTF? what do you encode them to too stop that? Â Â Â Â btw that about 650rpm idle. :) Â Edited August 3, 2008 by Jason Quote
Jason Posted August 9, 2008 Author Report Posted August 9, 2008 (edited) AFR barely got above 10. Before i had a play it was so rich my wide band said "Too rich" And it goes down to 7.5:1 Â Cooked the brakes trying to to a dodge tune.. woops. (Got carried away with trying to tune on boost) Â Things to do, fix exhaust so I can drive it semi inconspicuously around the neighbor hood wihout setting off alarms. Â Aswell as finish off the alternator bracket so I don't have to stick the battery on charge. Â For some reason the megasquirt AFR map generator wouldnt give me a proper table. I eneter a overestimate (power and toque) and it gave the most random table with afr from 3 to 25 scattered through out the range. It had a AFR of 25 at 7000rpm @ 170kPa!!! So i just cleared the table and set the entire range for 13:1 target. Â Â Also have to do something about the heat soak of the intake pipe since it touches the water hose. Edited August 9, 2008 by Jason Quote
Jason Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Posted February 2, 2009 (edited) This is only a minor thing but id thought people might like to see a reeeaallllyy cheap bonnet intake.  $15 Marine exhaust vent 5 Dremel cutoff disks 4 Screws  Gets you a stainless steel pedestrian shredder intake. I will need to be painted and reversed for rwc.  Pod filter is placed below it surrounded in heat shield foam.  This was opted over a naca duct, as in a last minute brain fart i remember the nacaduck is useless for hiflow induction.  The alternator is the only major thing holding me back from getting it on the road, its giving me random bursts of voltage, have to take it off and see whats what. Dam cheap reconditioned thing.... Edited February 2, 2009 by Jason Quote
SLW42 Posted February 2, 2009 Report Posted February 2, 2009 My alternator on my Celica did that I pulled it off then stripped it down and put new brushes into it and it neva did it again  just a lil bit of info that may help ya Quote
Medicine_Man Posted February 2, 2009 Report Posted February 2, 2009 If you need a hand with the alternator let me know, I'll come sort it out.. Quote
Teddy Posted February 2, 2009 Report Posted February 2, 2009 Slice n dice baby, slice n dice :cool: Quote
trav_555 Posted March 29, 2009 Report Posted March 29, 2009 Decided to read your entire thread :)  very cool thread!  is it up and running properly?  certainly gave me some great inspiration :cool:  keep up the excellent work  Travis Quote
Jason Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Posted March 30, 2009 cheers, been getting dusty just moved so been busy with that. Prepping laptop for tuning as i post this, got one that can actuality be used with the power cord unplugged. Quote
trav_555 Posted March 30, 2009 Report Posted March 30, 2009 sweet  is tuning hard to learn?  as I'm going to have to learn how to tune a microtech lt10s to a jdm bigport 4age by myself, with no previous experiance :y: and it has a diahatsu charade base map :)  so we shall see how i go :cool:  might have a bit of a help from a mate who built some lads rally car lancer from Coffs.  I'm actually looking forward to it!  got any pointers? for boht tuning and the conversion?  cheers  Travis Quote
Jason Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Posted March 30, 2009 (edited) Read heaps on it, learn nothing from reading then muck around with it on the road :) Â Also BUY A WIDE BAND! really worth it and necessary for any practicle on road tuning, narrows are useless apart from tell you your at stoic. Â I lernt from scratch aswell, this whole car is just been learning how to do things I knew nothing when i started. And still now know enough to know I know nothing :cool: Edited March 30, 2009 by Jason Quote
trav_555 Posted March 30, 2009 Report Posted March 30, 2009 cool, well since the microtech is second hand and was used on a diahatsu charade, how will i tell what map and stuff it has on it? and whether it is wideband how do i tell?  very new and confusing to me, but i understand a few of the electronics stuff associated with it  cheers  Travis Quote
beerhead Posted March 30, 2009 Report Posted March 30, 2009 If it was a 3 cylinder charade you'll have to send it back to microtech to be reconfigured for $200ish. Microtech's are annoying because they aren't user configurable in terms of what engine they can be triggered off. Self tuning is a pretty slow process, you need to datalog piles of data. 2 hours on a dyno to get a base map is definitely worth while, then I'd data log whilst under different driving conditions using a wide band and make small changes to the tune. Quote
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