My Ae71

[Golberg]

That last pic is what my dreams are made out of :sob:

Ahahaha nice, so I could imagine.

 

Seeing as though I'm planning to do this wiring myself I have a question those who do car engine wiring Kebin included.

It would be my automatic reaction if I needed to do any sort of wiring to solder the wires together and heat shrink them rather than using crimp connectors or anything else. I do tend to do a fair amount of electronics things (non car related) and use my soldering iron all the time. I read somewhere though that one should use self shrinking crimp connectors or something like that because solder joins will break due to the vibration. Personally I have a little more faith in my wire joining soldering skills but I thought I'd put the question out to those who've done it before.

So should I solder or do something else when it comes to my engine wiring?

 

On Monday I received my new intake :no2:

 

 

Getting my T-Series diff from Melbourne is proving to be a trial, although TNT didn't quote me that much to have it transported. Its proving a pain because they apparently need it boxed up, as one may imagine diff sized boxes aren't the most common variety. I think the guy is going to try get a fridge box and cut it down. Hopefully it will get here within the next month.

nice buy mate that rusts nothing you should see my ae86. :jamie:

:P Perhaps I should :y:

[Golberg]

Well I knocked out more and more bog out of the passenger side wheel well until it was all out. Sad to say it but I really don't think this is worth repairing so before I do any regoing I'm going to need a new shell for sure. :P This is the pile of bog I was left with:

 

Bottle cap for size reference, there was a piece of aluminum in there too which was covering a large hole.

 

Anybody happen to have an AE71 shell lying around? :yes: A non rusty one at that.

 

But in all seriousness if someone has a shell or maybe an auto AE71 with little or no rust which isn't more than about 150km from Wollongong I'd certainly be interested. I could go further than 150km if it has rego, maybe interstate. Must be an AE71 not KE70, need it to say so on the chassis for rego purposes.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Thats a lot of bog, ok, maybe you need a shell. Just keep an eye on ebay or the trading post, you will find one easy as.

[Kebin[RL]]

Ahahaha nice, so I could imagine.

 

Seeing as though I'm planning to do this wiring myself I have a question those who do car engine wiring Kebin included.

It would be my automatic reaction if I needed to do any sort of wiring to solder the wires together and heat shrink them rather than using crimp connectors or anything else. I do tend to do a fair amount of electronics things (non car related) and use my soldering iron all the time. I read somewhere though that one should use self shrinking crimp connectors or something like that because solder joins will break due to the vibration. Personally I have a little more faith in my wire joining soldering skills but I thought I'd put the question out to those who've done it before.

So should I solder or do something else when it comes to my engine wiring?

 

I have no problems with soldering. Solder joins break when the join was not insulated sufficiently and corroded away, or incorrectly soldered i.e. too much solder in the join. i don't solder too often as i try to make everything into neat harnesses that can be unplugged if you have to remove anything later down the track. I have my little narva connector box that i use for all my jobs: http://www.narva.com.au/Terminals_9.html part number 56250. The kit costs under $80 and all you need to get is a decent set of non insulated terminal crimpers which cost around $20 at dick smith

[Golberg]

I have no problems with soldering. Solder joins break when the join was not insulated sufficiently and corroded away, or incorrectly soldered i.e. too much solder in the join. i don't solder too often as i try to make everything into neat harnesses that can be unplugged if you have to remove anything later down the track. I have my little narva connector box that i use for all my jobs: http://www.narva.com.au/Terminals_9.html part number 56250. The kit costs under $80 and all you need to get is a decent set of non insulated terminal crimpers which cost around $20 at dick smith

Thanks a lot for the advice, much appreciated. :(

 

On a side note, I put down a deposit on another AE71 today :)

 

Same color, CS-X again, air con and all. The 3 differences are, its an auto, its only got 157,000k's as opposed to 300,000 on this one, but most importantly, its much less rusty!!! :n:

 

Oh, and its tinted.

 

$750 with 3 months rego, I'm happy

 

That rust on the bonnet is only very minor surface stuff.

 

I'll start a new thread once I've picked it up and get more photos.

[KPROLN]

hey mate was this the 1 in trading post

[Golberg]

hey mate was this the 1 in trading post

Sure was.

[Golberg]

hey mate was this the 1 in trading post

Sure was.

[KPROLN]

lol i bought a silver ae71 aswell looks like mine hehe any rust in it?

[Golberg]

It does have some rust, no holes though thankfully. There are a few places where you can see its been repaired, seems to have been done pretty well though. The only rust evident now is a couple of bubbles on the drivers side wheel arch and another 2 under the fuel filler door. And for some reason the metal piece at the top back passenger side of the dash. Mine other one is like that too, I really don't get why they rust there.

[Golberg]

Well on Saturday I pulled the gearbox out of this here corolla, its going to a better place (my other corolla :dance: ). Personally found it to be a bit of an ordeal to pull only the gearbox out without pulling anything off the engine. There was one bolt which was a big pain to get at, the top bellhousing bolt on the drivers side. Here it is, in all its glory the T50!

 

 

Then today we pulled it out of the drive and its in its final resting place on the side of the road out front.

 

 

Some one is coming to pick it up in 2 weeks minus its pedal box, gearbox, tailshaft etc (everything manual specific) for $400 but if somebody can get it out of here sooner I'll consider lower offers.

 

EDIT - I just though I'd mention, It will still have the 4AC in it when it gets taken away so you'll have the engine cross member and mounts for a 4AGE conversion and if the buyer is keen they can have everything to make it an auto for an extra $50 including a spare low Km 4AC

Edited April 6, 2008 by Golberg