Beauc Posted January 24, 2010 Report Posted January 24, 2010 What do you think the fibreglass will weigh when its set and put in?? Should look good mate, I'm trying to think of what car had a mad led setup in his roof lining, might have been in a forester I'll try dig up some old pictures Quote
SLO-030 Posted January 24, 2010 Report Posted January 24, 2010 (edited) yeah pics would be good ay!! erm approx 2 kg of resin will treat 9 square metre i think so lining will probably weigh in at around 4 kg. i'll be running so steel accross the roof with holes in it. and molding clips into the lining to ensure it stays up there. oops just realised i'm on ryans account.! Edited January 24, 2010 by SLO-030 Quote
greenmac80 Posted January 30, 2010 Author Report Posted January 30, 2010 ok my rolla finally in its new home at the workshop. Quote
Paul Posted January 30, 2010 Report Posted January 30, 2010 Just wanting to make sure you've thought of this, but installing the headlining, are you going to do it through the front before the windscreen is fitted? It will be one piece yeah? Quote
greenmac80 Posted January 30, 2010 Author Report Posted January 30, 2010 yeah through the front i'm hoping. it should fit. all the windows are out so it should be fine. Quote
gambit4000s Posted January 31, 2010 Report Posted January 31, 2010 looks very good man!! Is that Ryan's panel in primer? Quote
greenmac80 Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Posted January 31, 2010 the hatch?? yeah the whole car is in primer apart from the bay. well long story but over the last few months i've been thinking to myself.... i botched some of those rust repairs. used waaay too much bog and fibreglass. although it more than likely woulda been fine i've still decided to start over. i have recently become aquainted with a qualified panel beater and he's agreed to help me out with this beastie. so... i stripped the drivers side rear vent section, flare, and rust repairs. here is pics. before cut this out. the gaping hole. we're gonna kinda tub it but reverse... the inner arch will be replace with a new arch kinda box shaped to allow clearance for wider wheels, the old job still only allowed for an 8" wheel i'm aiming for 9-10" bare metaled and the vent section cut again. my god this car had warped badly. since cutting and stripping tho its kinda gone back to it original shape. also i've started stripping the engine bay as i've decided to go a different path with the bay. progress should come along quite well now... hopefully. Quote
SLO-030 Posted January 31, 2010 Report Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) Extreme weight reduction much? Should be awesome when I can do the micro tubs (smaller job than mini tubs) I reckon 245-255's under the bum will look horn. I'm gonna mock up the wagon with 235's to see what it looks like :) Adam, Yep. That's my 38. Shares the stable with Luc's 55 and a KE11 :D Edited January 31, 2010 by SLO-030 Quote
1JZKe55 Posted January 31, 2010 Report Posted January 31, 2010 wow now that's a hole lol and here i was thinking i'm the only 1 who likes to hack holes in cars lol just a thought for you guy would it be worth replacing the whole quarter panel might be easier than welding that much back in keep up the good work guy's Quote
greenmac80 Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Posted January 31, 2010 possibly but maybe not. the rear vent i'm gonna want to get rid off again anyways. also trying to find a rear quarter that isn't rusty will be difficult. we do however have the wagon next to to use as a base to correctly shape the pieces. i will persevere!! i will win!! lol. Quote
SLO-030 Posted January 31, 2010 Report Posted January 31, 2010 wow now that's a hole lol and here i was thinking i'm the only 1 who likes to hack holes in cars loljust a thought for you guy would it be worth replacing the whole quarter panel might be easier than welding that much back in keep up the good work guy's Yep, its a bigg'n. was able to keep the half of the inner guard and flare all in one piece. which made it easy. Will be ordering a fresh sheet of 1mm mild steel to roll up the inner guard and the rear 1/4. May even use the old flared guard as a template and roll new steel flares too :) Quote
greenmac80 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Report Posted February 2, 2010 Ok i have a biiigggg weekend planned for this puppy. basically strip bare the floor pan inside and out engine bay and boot and prime. i purchased another 4 litre kit of high fill parabuild protec primer. 2 pack. also purched some protec clear. called profile i've worked with it a few times and its really good and quite cheap. also 2 pack. then i think next week end i may paint the KE30 now that i have all the gear.! Quote
greenmac80 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Report Posted February 2, 2010 also hoping to get dry ice this week to get rid of all the sound deadening. oh and to help with the stripping i'll be using a gravity feed sand blaster! Quote
RollaBus_4agze Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 Damn dude, this is sweet :jamie: I saw a 'glass roof lining done in a purple XY (graced the covers of a Street Machine mag last year) and it looked AWESOME !!! Sweet work on the tubs as well! :D Will be VERY nice! can't wait to see more! Moe Quote
1JZKe55 Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 Yep, its a bigg'n. was able to keep the half of the inner guard and flare all in one piece. which made it easy. Will be ordering a fresh sheet of 1mm mild steel to roll up the inner guard and the rear 1/4. May even use the old flared guard as a template and roll new steel flares too :jamie: hey i just got another sheet from lonsdale sheet metal 2400x1200x1mm cold rolled $75 cheapest i could find down south Quote
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