BUZ440 Posted January 14, 2011 Report Posted January 14, 2011 Hey mate, are you going to use the back seats or just complete the look of the car, thought it would be worthwile having the rear bars to the wheel wells? and being in sunny coast there is only one place i know that would do such a tidy job, who did ya cage mind me asking Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Posted January 14, 2011 Not sure about the back seat, going to try and get rego as a 4 seater, but likely I'm dreaming. Agreed a few triangles would have been a great idea, and the cage builder really wanted to, but i really want a back seat for powercruise, and don't want to deviate from a street car too much. We did put a triangle brace across the rear of the roof, and an extra bar under the dash as an attempt to add some strength without compromising any space. It was actually a guy called graham here on the coast who built it, he is a manifold builder not sure of his business name though, this was his first cage, i had to talk him into doing it, and had to provide all the andra specs too, i also phoned the andra approval guy a few times to check on things as well. The main reason i wanted him to do it was to get it real tight to the vehicle, and from his previous work i knew he had the ability. Quote
BUZ440 Posted January 14, 2011 Report Posted January 14, 2011 Fair enough hey, I'm sure when you want to get going youll want to lighten up the weight, mine is all scaffolding in the back, haha and is quite stiff, i mean compared to my EVO yeah right, I was going to say KV's did the cage, but looks like he did a good job, ill be chasing manifold and rail, you going one, or just as is for the moment Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted January 15, 2011 Author Report Posted January 15, 2011 nah, kvs quote was 4k, a fair bit more than anywhere else. The cage ties into the chassis rails in the boot, so will hold the car together as planed. I can lift the front of the car a meter in the air with one hand as it sits, i recon if the diff wasnt in there with one other person we could carry the thing away. This is the 5th sr20 combination i have had in this car, all the under bonnet fab work is done, pics are on page 4 except the new plenum. Quote
BUZ440 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Posted January 15, 2011 She looks good mate, be interested in seeing how this plenum turns out, cause ill be after one, I figure ill try and squeeze out as much as i can, with manifolds, plenum and max out the disco potato, before external gated and bottom end work, Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted January 15, 2011 Author Report Posted January 15, 2011 My last engine was gt28rs .63 rear, non turbo cams, cheap ebay manifold, mls head gasket, stock inlet and 550cc injectors. Made 288hp@wheels in shootout mode on dyno at about 18psi. If your car is intended for circuit racing i would do nothing more, the response is insane as you probably know, and enough power to run 11.5 on the strip, sometimes i wonder why i ever changed it. I have the plenum here, just can't find a picture of it, i will take one next time i have something to upload. Quote
BUZ440 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Posted January 15, 2011 yeah that sounds about right with mine and with the 3.7 hilux diff its an evenly matched combo, when its cold it spins the wheels i figure with the weight its getting a bit silly to go more power i have yet to throw it down the track it don't phase me but that sounds like a good time yours will be a nice setup even with a low boost setting Quote
beerhead Posted January 15, 2011 Report Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) OOps, 2 many SR rolla threads :P Posted in the wrong one! Can't wait to see the finished paint job Matt. Edited January 15, 2011 by beerhead Quote
BUZ440 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Posted January 15, 2011 yeah i notice seems we get frowned upon non toyo powered cars, trial and error, I'm lookin at a 3rz engine, look at the ARE car and a 2.7 litle 4 is massive, GTR ETA!!! Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Posted January 16, 2011 ^^yep, i seriously thought about changing this to beams, after a whole lot of research i found the block couldn't handle the power i need, so sr20 stays. Wait till i pull the ke25 back out of the shed though, have i got some plans for that! Quote
beerhead Posted January 16, 2011 Report Posted January 16, 2011 Not really frowned upon, SR20 is RWD out of the box, it's a logical choice if you're not a crack pot toyota nazi like me :P Hmm, beams block weak? I was under the impression 400hp was doable on a stock bottom end and a thick Head gasket. I remember years ago finding some misleading crap saying the beams was alloy and sleeved, but it's cast iron. Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Posted January 16, 2011 What i found was 3s was all steel up until beams, and from rally forums had big problems with steel block cracking. From what i found they had various solutions with the block cracking but none were convincing enough really. For the beams i heard a million stories but concluded that it is an alloy block, and with the possibility that they used the same casting i decided not to be the lab rat and attempt thing i could find no info at all on. If you can shed any light brad, please do. cheers! Quote
beerhead Posted January 16, 2011 Report Posted January 16, 2011 I think you read the same forum I did, sounds very familiar, but I later found they were steel. I wouldn't be surprised if there's someone with a beams rally car casting aspersions to stop people playing with the beams motors to keep there advantage on the track. All other toyota Blocks I've seen that are alloy have been bare metal. You can see some red rust on the lower stud hole under the starter too. The block strength can be overcome with a late gen 5S block that has the oil galleries further away from the bores because of the 1mm larger bore and the back of the block is thicker (was a great pic on toymods recently) but of course the blacktop head has a different oil gallery setup for the dual VVTI. I've heard redtop head on a 5S block is the easy way to go, good for 800+ HP and works without having oil galleried tigged and redrilled like on the blacktop head. There's a company in the UK that does a wet sleeve conversion that makes any 3S block just about indestructible too. I will admit the SR20 girdle system is very superior to the bearing caps on the S toyota motors, but most alloy blocks self destruct without a girdle. I have wondered if the block cracking issue could be solved by a CNC girdle. 2JZ reliability goes from 1000 to 2000hp with a girdle, so I wonder... Quote
BUZ440 Posted January 17, 2011 Report Posted January 17, 2011 mate any pics of ya plenum yet? I have spent heaps on transporting mine around the country thinks its time to spend on the car haha Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Posted January 19, 2011 Hi mate, got some pics of the plenum today, also found one on my computer of it kind of set up. Its a bit dusty from being in the shed. prepping under the boot and bonnet. the best use for an sr20 block? A wheel rack i built for the shed, not quite finished hanging it though... Also a few bits arrived in the mail, fuel filter, and msd dis4 ignition and coils, more stuff still on its way. Quote
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