Ohh No ! Teddys Got Another Idea !

[Felix]

yep, single point.

 

you could always just use it as a throttle body with TPS and install injectors near the head on the inlet manifold ports.

[irokin]

off of a hillman imp, converted to EFI. doesn't show the throttle body.

 

another pic:

I was accually hunting for something like that from a mailing list/forum somewhere. But I can't remember where it is. Basically the guy has a TE27 (or maybe its a KE25?) running a 2T-TE with the standard manifold setup like that.

 

Your probably right with regards to money. I can't imagine they would be cheap.

 

The EGO sensor sounds like a good idea. At the moment I'm POSITIVE that the secondary jet is WAYYYY too large (As you can smell the fuel and feel the car bog down a bit pulling up hills). What do you think a wrecker would charge for one? I can probably get an exhaust shop to drill and weld a lug on for $20. hrmmmmm!!!

[Teddy]

Yup

 

 

 

 

 

 

:thumbsup:

[Felix]

i agree Nick a carb rebuild is a good idea. but then i doubt that the mixtures are correct unless the car has been dynoed at some stage. although with Bens sized engine it suits a 32/36 DGV alot better than a 4k so i guess he should be a lot closer to the mark. even then with a carb you will find the mixtures vary with temp and humidity changes, and also with different fuels....you can see this very well with a FMD unit, even though it is only narrow band. really you should ideally rejet a carb a few times a year to suit seasonal changes.

 

Ben, you'd be looking at around $30 for an O2 sensor. the one i got was from an EB falcon, 4 wire type. the heated sensors are good in that you can mount them further back, and give much more consistant readings. you need an M18x1.5 nut to weld on to your exhaust. i ground one down to fit snuggly to my exhaust. i got the exhaust drilled and the nut welded on for $30. could have got it cheaper, but it was a friday arvy and the place i got it done at were the only ones without a few day waiting list.

 

i use a DSE fuel mixture display kit, it spits out A/F mixture ratios. i don't think it is properly calibrated for my sensor. not a big deal as you really only need it for relative mixture tuning. i just went richer and richer and watched the readings until i hit rich misfire and backed off to the sweetspot using a stopwatch and my buttometer.

 

set your idle jets and primary main jet on the leanish side for fuel economy. on the cruise i get readings of between 14.4:1 to 14.7:1. full power rich gave readings of 13.0:1 to 12.8:1.

 

you don't need the FMD kit, just use a multimeter. with a bit of research you will be able to convert the readings to approxiamate A/F mixtures. every engine needs slightly different mixtures to the next anyway.

 

go to a carb shop and aquire some extra jets. i went to Ipswich Carburation Services, and got about a dozen various second hand jets and 2 venturis for my DCD weber for $40.

 

i found with my old warm 4k, and a 32/32 DGV, running a 4.5:1 diff i was getting better fuel economy (once my carb was optimised) than becs ke16 runnning a stock carb on a standard 4k with 4.2:1 diff. the best 0-60 MPH times i got with the 4k in my car was 8.6 secs, becs car running around 12 secs. also my car has way more drivability and responsiveness.

[Peter]

Slow down you're movin too fast,

You got to make the moment last,

(quote 'Simon and Garfunkel')

 

And if it's that time of the month,

wipe your nose as it's bleeding.

[irokin]

O2 sensor sourced (S13 SR20 3-wire type, thanks avalonea) and meter borrowed (thanks avalonea again :thumbsup:)

 

Gonna see if I can get the nut welded on tomorrow...and I'll try and hook it all up.

[Super Jamie]

And if it's that time of the month,

wipe your nose as it's bleeding.

*raised eyebrows*

i always thought something else bled around that time of month, then again i spose it depends on where you stick your nose :thumbsup: bottoms up lads!

[Teddy]

:D :) :) :D :thumbsup: