32/36 Dramas.

[bLinded_]

Hey guys,

 

I am after some help with working out "wtf" is going wrong with my carbie. Have a 32/36 DGAV Weber on the 4K since the Aisan one shit itself. All was working fine with it over 2 months or so, but now something is wrong and I am unsure of what it is. The car will not rev at a steady level. If you try to hold the revs at a constant mark, the engine drops in revs then kinda splutters back up then drops again. The same goes for the idle. It barely idles, and when you adjust the mixture screw, it does hardley anything. The screw can be the whole way out and the engine still runs like it was halfway in. When you try to increase the idle speed, the engie just picks up then dies then picks up again, much the same as when you try to hold it at a constant rev. :P It is almost impossible to drive the car as everytime I clutch in, the car stalls, and also, any small acceleration and the car just starts bunny hopping foward even when the clutch is out :P I am stumped as to why it worked fine now all of a sudden it is running like crudler. All the manifold and adaptor plate studs are tight and the vacuum lines seem to be all free from blockages. The jet sizes that are in the carbie at the moment are 132 main and 165 air in the primary throat, 145 main and 175 air in the seconday throat and has a 55 idle jet. I'm sure that these wouldnt be the problem as it was working fine until today, but if anyone could please tell me what size jets they run, that would be appreciated. Here is a photo of what the carbie is like on the engine. Please, if anything seems funny, let me know.

 

If anyone has an idea of what may cause this, that would be great. I may even be wrong by thinking it is the carbie... :D

 

Thanks in advance, Alex.

[kangaroosa]

I used to have similar drama's on my car.

Turned out to be the fuel line was clogged up with sand/sugar....whatever it was. The fuel line was like one of those old school sherbet straws. Hence, no fuel would make it into the carby and it would simply bunny hop and splutter.

 

I would be checking the fuel lines and fuel filter for any blockages. Maybe take the fuel line off before the carb and turn the car over to check whether fuel is actually being pumped into the carb.

 

Do you have points ignition? Check the point gap.

 

Check all vacuum lines and manifold gasket for leaks.

 

Take the air filter off and see if the pump jet is squirting fuel etc.

 

Normally its something simple like the things mentioned above.

 

The intake manifold looks a little dirty under the fuel lines. Had a fuel leak lately that the dirt has stuck too?

Edited August 27, 2007 by kangaroosa

[irokin]

Try pulling the vac advance off the distributor. I had (and still have) a similar problem but removing the distributor vacuum advance line fixes it. Worth a shot.

[tas_ae71]

i had a problem with the idel with mine aswell on a 4ac. it was tuned too rich and would idel like it was a 13b bridgeport.

 

and wouldn't run well until it had a few revs on it. it also chugged abit of black smoke too. all good with a bit of a tune.

[bLinded_]

The intake manifold looks a little dirty under the fuel lines. Had a fuel leak lately that the dirt has stuck too?

That was from a few minutes earlier when i disconnected the fuel hose from the carbie. A little bit spilt out onto the manifold and yeah, that is why it looks wetish still.

 

Take the air filter off and see if the pump jet is squirting fuel etc.

There is fuel getting into the carbie how ever, this might sound like a dumb question, but should the fuel be squirted at a steady rate, or should it kinda spurt out, then stop, then spurt again? I ask this because when there is fuel being squirted out, it gain revs, and when it stops, they fall(obviously) but I thought if it was supposed to be a steady rate, then it would idle smooth perhaps. I ordered an overhaul kit for the carbie today, so when that turns up I will give the carbie a clean and rekit. Tomorrow I will get some new vacuum hoses as the ones that I am using atm are from the old carby, so they might have a crack/fault somewhere. As to test for a vacuum leak, does spraying some fuel froma spray bottle around gaskets seem like a good idea, or is it a bad idea with the heat of the manifold etc?

 

i had a problem with the idel with mine aswell on a 4ac. it was tuned too rich and would idel like it was a 13b bridgeport.

 

and wouldn't run well until it had a few revs on it. it also chugged abit of black smoke too. all good with a bit of a tune.

 

That is what mine sounds like at the moment, however, the thing is that it was in tune for months. I didn't think that it would randomly go out of tune and then not go back in tune at all. After a rebuild of the carbie and new lines, a new tune will be in order though.

 

Thanks for your help so far guys, appreciate the fast responses :P I'll see what happens with it tomorrow.

 

-Alex

[bLinded_]

Try pulling the vac advance off the distributor. I had (and still have) a similar problem but removing the distributor vacuum advance line fixes it. Worth a shot.

 

Sorry, missed your reply. I will try that out tomorrow too, before anything else. Your right, it is worth a shot, anything is worth a shot because you'll never know if it is the problem unless you try it.

 

Thanks

 

-Alex

[Felix]

Sounds to me it is most likely a blocked idle airbleed. Very common in DGV webers.

 

[bLinded_]

Well, got some good news.

 

Took the carbie apart today and gave it a thorough clean. Runs like a car should again which is good. Pretty sure that the carbie hadn't been cleaned in a long time, so something other than the jets which I had previously cleaned, was blocked which caused the problem. Had a bit of a scare though when I reassembled it again. I put the primary venturi in the wrong way, so when it got some throttle and went off the idle jet, the car just stalled :) :D Realised soon after what was causing it so I fixed it :hmm:

 

Again, thankyou for all your help. It is good to have such great help for the problems I've had. :)

 

 

Just a side note to save making a new thread. I was talking to a guy at a performance workshop about my car yesterday and we came to the topic of extractors. I asked if he could get some to suit K series engines. For $180.00 he said he could get me some brand new 4-1 Redline extractors which apparently, are made by Hurricane but sold as Redline. :hmm: Just was wondering if $180.00 is a good price for a brand new set of extractors, or is it a bad move to get redline ones?

 

-Alex

[tas_ae71]

i wouldnt have a clue on how well they are made, but that seems a very good price to me for new ones.

[camerondownunder88]

Mate $10 is good. I was quoted $380 for 4-2-1 2 inch extractors for a KE30 so $180 snap them up.

 

Cameron

[bLinded_]

Mate $10 is good. I was quoted $380 for 4-2-1 2 inch extractors for a KE30 so $180 snap them up.

 

Cameron

 

Yeah with a bit of luck I will get them soonish. He said he won't be doing any orderes till the start of next month so by then I should have some money...hopefully :D

 

-Alex