philbey Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Posted February 1, 2009 (edited) One step forward, 2 steps back. I scored a thermofan and was about to start mounting it and the slightest touch on the radiator and it busted a leak! I have a KE20 radiator, I've worked out how to fit it, so I'll be back to visit you Raven and change that 10 inch for a 12 inch. Mounting the KE20 radiator is quite easy - I'll use 2 lengths of aluminium Square hollow section to space it back and up slightly. Can only get away with it if you run a thermo, otherwise a crank driven fan will be too close. Will put up a How To when I'm done. Edited February 1, 2009 by philbey Quote
philbey Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Posted February 1, 2009 Scotty, that muffler I pinched off you turned out to be a complete winner! I lopped off the ends and slitted them, and it fitted perfectly where the old peashooter resonator was. Now the exhaust is 1 3/4 all the way through and in fairly good condition. See pic. There is a muffler between the tank and left rear leaf, but it's too big and knocks on the spring mount. I will probably rip that out and put another smaller muffler in, depending on how loud it is. Basically all that is left to do is fit up the KE20 rad, cut the floorpan (which I'm not keen to do haha) and its test pilot time. The 40+ heat in the shed was fairly demotivating over the last 4 days though.... Quote
ScottKE1X Posted February 1, 2009 Report Posted February 1, 2009 (edited) Nice, looks pro/ Does that mean its permanent?? you should polish that bitch up :cool: didnt realise you'd matt blacked the cars whole underside mate, you must be serious!! good luck with the tunnel cut, try not to cry when doing it.... Scott. Edited February 1, 2009 by ScottKE1X Quote
Raven Posted February 1, 2009 Report Posted February 1, 2009 One step forward, 2 steps back. I scored a thermofan and was about to start mounting it and the slightest touch on the radiator and it busted a leak! I have a KE20 radiator, I've worked out how to fit it, so I'll be back to visit you Raven and change that 10 inch for a 12 inch. As long as you have the receipt and packaging, then that should be fine. Will need to do it within 7 days though or work charge a restocking fee or something. Quote
philbey Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Posted February 1, 2009 Mick I'll see how I go, I fly to Roxby tomorrow, I might be able to get the GF down there to sort it out. I'll give you a buzz tomorrow. I'll see how the exhaust sounds with that muffler, it's replacing the old 1.5 inch resonator, so it should sound a bit better. The whole system is 1 3/4 through, I might just turf out the rear muffler and get a new one if I don't like the note, while they're there they can weld up the one I scored off you! So yeah, probably will be a permanent item. Quote
philbey Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Posted February 12, 2009 Alrighty then; After busting a little hole in my rad, I fitted the KE20 item I scored off ebay.Reasonable condition, it was cleaned out in 2006 according to the NATRAD stickeron it. To get it to fit neatly, I had to put 2 lengths of 13mm SHS aluminium to space it back from the support panel. This allowed me to bring the radiator upwards slightly, otherwise the bottom passenger side corner sits hard on the crossbrace. You can see the SHS in there, I just used longer bolts. Also had to file out the slots on the Radiator quite a bit. Its a bigger core, a couple of inches taller. I checked and I have plentyof clearance to the bonnet. Fitted a 12 inch thermofan (cheers Mick) as well. Simple, just 2 bolts into the rad support brace at the top and then a piece of Aly angle across the bottom that I stole off Scotty: I mounted the relays between the battery and the Radiator. I'll run a thermoswitch eventually but for the moment Its just wired to a switch on the dash. Got the exhaust all plumbed up, discovered I can just pull out my rear muffler, it was frozen on but I might rip it out once its running. All thats left is the floor cut for shifter...... Quote
Felix Posted February 12, 2009 Report Posted February 12, 2009 When I put the ke20 radiator in my ke16 I just slotted the bolt holes and it fitted fine. I think the mounting plates in the side of my rad are more straight up and down, and not angled back like yours. I run plastic fans on both my ke15 and ke16. Not exactly sure what they were originally off. I like your lower mount for the thermo, very neat. Beats running bolts or clips though the fins. How are you for clearance over your gbox xmember for the exhaust? My ke16 was done the same way when I got it, it tends to rub. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted February 13, 2009 Report Posted February 13, 2009 luck you didn't buy a gilmer drive!! theres bugger clearance between the pullies and rads compared to a 55! Quote
roladude Posted February 13, 2009 Report Posted February 13, 2009 Are you going to put a shroud on so that the fan is cooling the whole radiator :dance: Other wise it will only cool the immediate area. Quote
kE20ME Posted February 13, 2009 Report Posted February 13, 2009 no need for a shroud, you can change the polarity of the fan so it pushes the air through the rad, i have a fresh recore rad in my car, and fan with a temp switch - set to the lowest setting think its around the 84 degree mark... fan only switches on when sitting at the lights, if I'm going at walking pase or on a really really hot day... mine works fine without one, basically identical setup to philbey's as well! love this waggon dude :dance: sooo nice! :lolcry: cheers henry Quote
philbey Posted February 14, 2009 Author Report Posted February 14, 2009 I'll see how I go without a shroud, having it set up on the front you then block any air that would otherwise flow through whilst driving. Not only that, but the dynamic is much different from a draw through fan. I couldn't live with the concept of pushing bolts through the fins! And my biggest trouble with running a crank fan was finding one that fitted my water pump! I took it for a drive FINALLY. Throttle cable stretched an I had no foot pedal. Alternator got too close to the radiator hose and nicked a hole in it. Drove home tugging on the throttle cable! Quote
philbey Posted February 14, 2009 Author Report Posted February 14, 2009 Felix the gearbox crossmember clearance is perfect, couldn't believe the fit with these headers (go all the way past the crossmember!) There is a muffler behind the diff that hits on the rear spring rear eyelet bolt, thats about the only issue I have with it. Got a new rad hose and for the 3rd time a new lot of coolant. Shorter alternator belt should give me the clearance I need too. Quote
SLO-030 Posted February 14, 2009 Report Posted February 14, 2009 Sounds like its all ready to go just about. :P Come upto jasons if you get it fixed today. We shall be there finishing off the conversion. Quote
Ke10-Hoon Posted February 15, 2009 Report Posted February 15, 2009 Felix the gearbox crossmember clearance is perfect, couldn't believe the fit with these headers (go all the way past the crossmember!) There is a muffler behind the diff that hits on the rear spring rear eyelet bolt, thats about the only issue I have with it. Got a new rad hose and for the 3rd time a new lot of coolant. Shorter alternator belt should give me the clearance I need too. LOL. Building a car isn’t about buying the same part two times, but rather buying the same part for a 3rd time only to replace again down the track because of other unforseen modification. This wagon rocks. Quote
philbey Posted February 15, 2009 Author Report Posted February 15, 2009 (edited) Got it back together again. Took it for another drive, temperature stayed about half on the stock gauge (what the old motor used to sit at). I had to fab up an L shaped bracket to match up to the idle adjust screw. I think the linkages are Redline items, so they're a bit generic. My new bracket works a treat though. Fitted another bracket to mount the fuel pressure reg off the front of the manifold, bit agricultural but I'll clean it up. Scotty that channel I pinched off you has gone a long way! Now i just need to work on balancing the Carbs and making sure my timing's dialled in. I might get it dyno tuned once the carbs are balanced Edited February 15, 2009 by philbey Quote
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