T Series Into A Ke20

[andro0o]

as the topic says,

 

i got told you can jsut 'shorten the diff tube' but I'm not sure whats meant by that. or do i have to go about cutting down axles and things as i assumed you would.

 

can anyone break it down for me please?

 

thank you.

[Redwarf]

I've just put one in the 25. No shortening, but I'm having to install flares.

[andro0o]

I've just put one in the 25. No shortening, but I'm having to install flares.

 

are they that much wider without shortening? well I'm gonna need flares for the wheels I'm getting anyways, so how far does it push the wheels out?

 

also, can someone explain what is meant by shortening the diff tube? I'm still confused as to what that means lol.

[coln72]

diff tube I'm guessing is the bit tubey bit from the centre out to the brakes :wink:

[andro0o]

diff tube I'm guessing is the bit tubey bit from the centre out to the brakes :wink:

 

wow thanks you figured that out all by yourself ?! i didnt ask what it was, i asked how to shorten it..? but thanks for wastig my life in replying to that :hmm:

[Trev]

Cut the backing plate mounts off and cut the tube down and weld them back on.

[andro0o]

Cut the backing plate mounts off and cut the tube down and weld them back on.

 

 

perfect. exactly what i wanted to know. thank you.

[coln72]

Make what you want to know clear.

 

As to shortening the diff - unless you have a jig to keep it all aligned and you REALLY know how to weld I think you are asking for trouble doing it yourself. The thought of the whole axel assembly passing you on the freeway is scary...........

 

I'm guessing that if you shorten the diff, you need shorter axels as I don't know how much spline you have to play with. If they have to be shortened, recutting the splines (assuming there is enough meat) will weaken the axel.

 

In short, get a proffessional to do it, find a shorter diff, or don't drive it so hard :wink:

 

Happy now

[anastasios]

very true

[chrisandliz[RL]]

what is the diff out of?

 

if it's a corona then it is 35mm longer

if it is a ta22 celica or t18 is is only 10mm longer, so i would not worry :wink:

 

my two cents

 

Chris

[philbey]

yeh get it done by a pro, as it will need balancing.

 

All you need to do is drop it off to them and tell them what length you want it at. Might as well get the unis done while you're at it too.

 

My mate paid about 80 bucks to have a new rear uni put on and shortened.

[styler]

sizes:

 

ke20 U series = 1320mm mounting face to mounting face.

ta22 T series = 1355mm mounting face to mounting face (narrowest t series avalable in aus)

 

measuring:

 

so get a straight edge vertical on the rim / tyre combo to be used and see where

the tyres are from the wheel arch section in mm.

 

now you will see with a X amount wider diff where the tyres will end up.

 

modification:

 

you can now decide on how to keep them under the arches using one

or more of the following methods:

 

1. roll lip gets about 15mm a side

 

2. roll lip / pump guards (skilled job), 15 to 25mm a side

 

3. run more positive offset rims ( ie more backspace ) 0 to 20mm a side

 

4. shorten diff housing (very skilled job) / cut axles about 10mm a side

 

5. shorten diff housing (very skilled job) / cut axles / respline axles (very skilled job) 10 to 25mm and more a side

 

Or you can run them ouside the arches with flares, on the front this is ok

as the wheels move inwards as they move upwards, on the rear the arch may need

cutting as the axle movement can be vertical and hit the arches.

 

mounts:

 

then you need to cut off the old mounts carefully off the ke20 diff and also cut the mounts off

the ta22 diff and clean it up. then weld the ke20 mounts in the correct position on the ta22 diff

taking care of the angles you weld them on.

 

rebuild:

 

new bearings and seals are a good idea if you have gone to the trouble of going this far,

also clean up housing and new gaskets and paint.

 

ratios:

 

see whats avaliable from other model t series diffs and choose the one that closest meets

your needs.

 

centre:

 

get diff checked out at diff shop and backlash and preload done if needed.

 

tailshaft:

 

probably have to shorten a one piece t series one and change gearbox end yoke depending

on gearbox used, get tailshaft balanced.

 

brakes:

 

get all the t series handbrake stuff from the donor car as well as the brake lines and splitter.

the handbrake system may need modification using new or old or a combo of both.

get new drum wheel cylinders and new pads / drums if needed and install / adjust to spec.

 

oil:

 

use decent oil to fill diff, just a mineral $30 should be ok. clutch lsd must run special oil!

 

rims:

 

if you run positive offset rims on the rear to fit the diff in note that the front rims cannot run a

more positive offset ( more backspace ) as they will hit the strut. so its either unusal mismatched

rims (ie front more dish than rear) or maybe bolt on spacers for the front which may not be legal.

 

axles:

 

ta22 are 24mm, ie zenki. not thick but will handle 160 hp at the fly with good race driving (at a guess),

also axle cutting and resplining, the axles have to be suitable for shortening, sometimes they arent

due to length required, or the area to be cut is too thin (no meat) or too thick (removes outside hardening)

 

zenki/kouki?

 

this means early and late model. aus got zenki t series diffs not kouki t series. zenki in aus is in ta22, t18 and

a couple more cars in varying widths and mount systems. kouki is 25mm splines on axles

and does not interchange with 24mm zenki splines. if you have the kouki diff and kouki axles i believe it

interchanges to the zenki housing. kouki lsd is avaliable in 1, 1.5 and 2 way. kouki t series diffs are the ae86 sprinter

diffs with disc brakes, very rare and expensive in aus but avaliable for about $1500.

 

lsd:

 

coming another day.... prob a whole writeup itself.

in short they are avaliable for ta22 t series (ie zenki small axle, all aus t series) in 1 way and possibly 1.5

and 2 way (check avalibility). kaaz, cusco are highly rated aftermarket. you can rebuild an orignal unit

but its expensive $400 a kit i believe plus labour. aftermarket does not need to shorten axles, original lsd

requires the shorter lsd axles or cut yours down a bit to suit. you probably will need a shop to install the lsd and

set it up properly.

 

any corrections / additions welcome :wink:

Edited August 15, 2007 by styler

[philbey]

2. roll lip / pump guards (skilled job), 15 to 25mm a side

mounts:

 

Guard pumping! Top idea. You'll get your clearance sorted and you'll end up with a tough looking car.

 

My mate pumped his own guards on his ae86, bought a hammer and dolly and just started hitting. A bit of bog later, and its done. Check this

 

LINK out

 

If you're in adelaide, he might even do yours for cash, I know he's done a few others.

[NoPsi]

This is a very informative thread. Can we have this put in the FAQ please ig there isn't already this info?

[camerondownunder88]

Hi,

Don't KE1X cars run the same diff as a KE2X.

 

Would this be possible in a KE1X car?

 

Cameron