Davros' Ke10 4age Project

[untubbed_20]

So do you know if the cut down axles are re-hardened?

 

The ones i was talking about are , they just aren't any where near as strong as factory axles.

cheers

darren

[Davros El Davros]

Hey Guys,

 

Thanks for the info and clarification about the axles.

 

Obviously I haven't clued myself in fully about this, and have been taking the advice of people working on the diff for me.

I'll make sure I know my facts a bit better before posting opinions in future.

My axles have just been cut down and not re-hardened at this stage. I know a few guys who are running non hardened shortened axles in turbo cars which seem to be ok.

I'll take my chances at first, then move to hardened axles down the track if necessary. Going N/A to start with, then perhaps turbo in a few years time, after my skinned knuckles and battered wallet have recovered from the initial build.

 

The diff is now back and test fitted in the car with a set of Koni adjustable shocks. It all fits beautifully, and the wheels fill out the guards nicely with enough clearance on both sides without using spacers.

 

I just have to weld up the brake line mounts on the diff and give it a paint, then it's good to go. Was going to get it powder coated, but I thought it best to wait until I have the car on the road and all of the back suspension fully sorted before powder coating anything. I still may have to play around with some mounts on the diff.

 

Beerhead is currently rewiring the whole car and doing a killer job. Its great to think that I can possibly start the engine soon - after the wiring is finished, I just have to hook up the heater hoses and rear water outlet. I'll post some progress pics of the wring up soon.

 

Sleepy - I'll get you some images of the Hoppers Stoppers kit soon. If you want to PM me your email address I can send you the high res pics. I have found the kit to be really good quality so far and the guys at Hoppers Stoppers to be really helpful. You probably would have read on my thread somewhere how I had a few issues with the rotors hitting the LCAs. If you get the kit from Hoppers, ensure that they include some spacers like I got them to make up for me. Also be aware that you will need to upgrade to a 1" master cylinder and get a booster in your system as well for best pedal feel.

[untubbed_20]

Sounds tops, does the hopper stopper kits clear 14's or do you need 15 inch wheels

The funny thing about those axles is my mate has been cutting down his own now, non hardened

and they last heaps longer than the cut down hardened ones he and everyone else was getting done

by various different sources ...weird...

cheers

darren

Edited November 3, 2009 by untubbed_20

[Davros El Davros]

Hey Darren,

 

Yeah you do need 15" inch wheels to clear the Hoppers Brakes - the rotors are 290mm in diameter and they use PBR 2 spot calipers - I think they are the same as what you find on new Falcons.

 

I had been experimenting with a few different upgrades, one using Volvo 264 4-spot calipers and Honda Discs, but nothing was working properly and it was costing me a lot of valuable time, so I just bit the bullet and got the Hoppers Kit. Being able to simply bolt everything on is awesome. Now the fun and games starts with plumbing both remote boosters - one under each front guard, and installing the Tilton pedal box and masters up under the dash. Pedal box should be arriving in the next few days from Earls Performance in Sydney.

 

How is your build going? That little KE10 has been a big inspiration for me when I first got mine - I have a full print out of the an old thread somewhere detailing the build....

[Davros El Davros]

I just realised that all of my images on this thread have broken links, due to changing web hosting...

 

I'll go through and fix this asap..

[untubbed_20]

My build not going at all, sitting under a cover, i am doing house renovation atm and

are trying to finish the skyline first as its very expensive build this time and has been 3 yrs there and its killing

me financially and doing my brain in aswell. Just need it done!.

Also have 2nd child due in 8wks..lol

 

Will finish the

ke10 after that, have heaps of bits for it, just a matter of doing a lot of it. Its a million times cheaper to do and

more fun aswell.

cheers

darren

Edited November 3, 2009 by untubbed_20

[Davros El Davros]

Well, ASAP turned into a couple of months but I have finally fixed the broken image links, except for a few that I can't locate on my computer.

 

In terms of progress on the car, I'll have some updates soon.

 

I have been neglecting this thread a bit, but work has been continuing.

 

Stay tuned!

Edited February 24, 2010 by Davros El Davros

[67Rolla-Ken]

Can't wait to see new pics!

[HIGH ROLLER]

top job davros...all that polished metal looks great.

keep the pics up as much as you can.

[HIGH ROLLER]

Also Davros,

would be keen to get some pics up of the pedal box and how you go with it...I'm looking to run a Willy/tilton pedal box in my 20...

 

Cheers again,

Mark M

[Davros El Davros]

Sure thing Mark, I'll snap some flicks and get them up.

 

I had started welding up the brackets to hold the Tilton Box in place, but then work ramped up so my time was limited.

 

Next thing I need to do is weld the braces in place to bolt it up under the dash and have it sit in the correct spot.

 

From my research, there wasn't a great deal of difference between the Willwood and Tilton pedal boxes in terms of price. I have heard that willwood stuff has trouble get past engineering laws due to it being labelled as 'for off road or racing use only' however, this is unconfirmed. Just a rumour that I have heard.

 

 

In terms of progress, I am currently working on the strengthening of the trans tunnel where the new hole has been cut for the T50.

 

Have been welding in 1.6mm mild steel plate with the TIG. I was initially a bit worried about blowing out on the thin gauge metal in the car, but the welds have been flowing really well, and its looking really neat with no heat warpage at all. I will post up some flicks in the next few days.

 

I have also discovered a nice little surprise - an 8cm hole in the firewall around the accelerator pedal that was previously blanked off with a metal plate and held in place by screws and glue.

 

Love the dodgy workmanship from previous owners of this beast..Its going to be a tricky bit of welding to fix this up, but I'll get it nailed.

 

I figured I would get the trans tunnel and firewall done in one hit, then attack the brakes.

 

[Rolliac]

Whats been happening Davros?

[Davros El Davros]

Hey Rolliac,

 

Well as you have seen, updates have been few and far between lately. I've been flat out with work, and setting up a new motion graphics/post production studio in Brisbane.

 

Its called Studio Breeder and peeps can check out our website here: www.studiobreeder.com

 

Check out the showreel. Turn the sound up.

 

 

Even though I've been pretty slow on the updates to this thread, work has been continuing on the car.

 

Trans tunnel strengthening is all finished, as well as the repair to the hole in the firewall. Small rust spots in the front driver's guard have been repaired, and now I have moved on to some rust that Beerhead found in the floor when pulling up the old wiring loom.

 

Chipping 43 year old sound deadener off aint much fun!

 

After these rust holes in the floor are fixed, Beerhead can get on with the re-wiring of the whole car. Then I'll move on and get the pedal box mounted.

 

I have a bunch of flicks to upload, so I'll get them formatted and up soon. Ha. We have heard that one before!

Edited August 15, 2010 by Davros El Davros

[cuzzo]

The showreel is sick.

[Davros El Davros]

Thanks! We will keep updating the site with new work as it's completed.