Engine Flooding?

[bLinded_]

Hey guys,

 

My dad and I recently installed a 32/36 DGAV Weber on the 4K as the old Aisan one that was on there had basically lost it's will to live. The carbie is working pretty damn nicely however we just encountered little problem and are unsure what is causing it.

 

The problem is that after the car has been driven around for a while(5minutes or more)then turned off, it doesnt like to start up again straight away. (noticed when trying to start the car after stopping at the petrol station :yes: ) You kinda have to let it sit a bit then try again. Once it finally starts, it gurgles for abit at about 300rpm then slowly rises to a normal idle(1000rpm). It seems as if the engine is flooding after the car is switched off. Was wondering if it would be:

 

A) The carb not jetted correctly for the engine or

B) Something to do with not having a fuel return line so any unburnt fuel in the carb is just running into the manifold.

 

Just wondering knows about/has experianced the same problem and may know a possible solution.

 

Thanks for your help,

 

-Alex

[Des]

The Asian carbies have a fuel solenoid on the carby so when ya turn the ignition off the fuel stops.

 

The 32/36 might have a fuel solenoid i don't know but look for 2 wires and if they are hanging loose plug them in.

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit..._Series/4kstall

 

Hope i helped a bit.

 

Des :yes:

[bLinded_]

The 32/36 has no loose wires hanging anywhere, and as far as I can see, there isn't anywhere where it would be possible to connect wires to.

At the moment the solenoid wire (precisionly marked by arrow :yes: ) isn't plugged to anything so maybe that is messing with things. :hmm: I'll have another search on the carb for where wires may be possible to attach to it. Thanks for the help des, i'll see what i can come up with after another search :y:

 

If anyone has any other ideas of what may cause the problem, feel free to leave your 2c input :yes:

 

-Alex

[Felix]

First thing I would try is replacing the needle and seat. $15-$20.

 

If it is worn fuel will continue to leak past it when the engine is switched off, until the residual pressure in the fuel line drops.

[LINDSAY]

Yeah i'd be betting on needle and seat , i had it happen in my old cappella a couple of times , had fuel over flowing out the top of the carby

[Taz_Rx]

FYI, all webers these size use the same thread sizes needle and seats with different flow rates.

 

This means you can take a working N&S out of a weber from a falcon, cortina, fiat, alfa, etc and it will fit your carby.

 

My old weber in the turbo set up is off a 1.3lt fiat, with a 4.1lt falcon N&S, so fuel delivery to the float bowl is never going to be an issue. :yes:

[Rollaboy2608]

FYI, all webers these size use the same thread sizes needle and seats with different flow rates.

 

This means you can take a working N&S out of a weber from a falcon, cortina, fiat, alfa, etc and it will fit your carby.

 

My old weber in the turbo set up is off a 1.3lt fiat, with a 4.1lt falcon N&S, so fuel delivery to the float bowl is never going to be an issue. :yes:

Had a similiar issue with an SS Torana I used to own with a holley set up. As Taz said the needle/seat combo was interchangeable between carbs and by fitting a higher capacity unit it eventually stopped the carbie catching on fire in the Maccas car park(yes that did actually happen haha)

[bLinded_]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll be replacing the N+S sometime this week hopefully if I get some spare time. I found a couple of carbie places in town, so on the weekend I'll give them a call and try and get the carbie jetted correctly for the 1.3L. I'll post on here the outcome after the N+S is replaced and/or the carb jetted.

 

Thanks again

 

-Alex

[towe001]

The Asian carbies have a fuel solenoid on the carby so when ya turn the ignition off the fuel stops.

 

The 32/36 might have a fuel solenoid i don't know but look for 2 wires and if they are hanging loose plug them in.

If the fuel solenoid doesn't have power running to it wouldn't that mean that the solenoid stays shut and no fuel would be able to get it to the carbies bowl.

My 2c would be that if its not the needle and seat then maybe its the gasket.

[Rusty1]

Hi, I have had quite a bit of experience with this carbie, my ex had one on her MK1 2door escort 2 litre that i built up for her. same drama's as you. best thing to do is to find some mechanic that is really clued up on these types of carbies or go to a carbie exchange joint, or if your confidant, grab a carbie kit and do it your self, I put 4 kits in the one on the escort untill I had enough and completly stripped the carb down untill there was nothing more that could come off it, usually there are a few little clips or 'o' rings left over, not the last time. I used every last bit of the kit and it fixed the problem, hard starting when hot, rough idle, running on sometimes.

 

so see how you go and report back

 

Cheers

Shane

[bLinded_]

Tomorrow I'll take the carbie apart and check the condition of the N+S and gasket. I noticed a little whistile coming from the carbie today when the engine decelerates so there is a vacuum leak somewhere :yes: , most likely the carb gasket. It never used to do this so I am starting to think that a new kit through the carbie would be the best bet, then get it rejetted. Again, will post on the outcome.

 

-Alex

[bLinded_]

Ok, sorry for the late update....have had alot of s**t going on at the moment.... so my car was in last in the order unfortunatley.

 

Whistling is fixed, just the manifold/adaptor plate studs needed tightening. Problem solved.

 

As for engine flooding...It still happens sometimes, but ive worked out, if it doesn't start like it should, put the pedal flat to the floor then it starts straight away.

 

The N+S seemed to be in good condition, but i think I will get a new one anyway, as well as new gaskets and what not. Going to try rejet it myself if I can get a hold of some different sized jets. From what I have heard, I should be trying around 130 mains and 170 air jets. At the moment it has 165 and 175 airs, and a 145 main jet in the primary throat and an unmarked jet size in the secondary throat, though pretty sure that it is bigger than 145. Dyno tune would be the best bet...but I really can't afford it at the moment, and I don't know of any dyno places in town.

 

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know where to buy jets for DGAV/DGV webers? Was going to try Bursons and Repco tomorrow, but if anyone knows where to get them, love to hear it.

 

Also, just a side note, the car seems to get around 10-11km/L all town driving aswell. Not sure if that is good or bad, but it actually seems to use the same amout of fuel as the stock Aisan one :y:

 

-Alex

[tas_ae71]

on my 4ac, i seemed to be gettinng better fuel economy, then i had a fiddel with it to get a better tune and i now have much worse fuel economy.. it was hell rich before and used to chug black smoke now it blows blue/white smoke which is rather concerning :y:

 

also the vaccume leak is most probaly for the adaptor plate gaskets. i had bit of trbole with mine when i first put mine on.

[bLinded_]

I saw a carbie bloke today and told him what jets were in the carb at the moment, he said straight away they are too big for the engine, so on monday I should be getting the right sized jets, he agreed that around 170 air and 130 mains would be right for a stock 4K.

 

on my 4ac, i seemed to be gettinng better fuel economy, then i had a fiddel with it to get a better tune and i now have much worse fuel economy.. it was hell rich before and used to chug black smoke now it blows blue/white smoke which is rather concerning :lol:

 

also the vaccume leak is most probaly for the adaptor plate gaskets. i had bit of trbole with mine when i first put mine on.

 

Hmmm, blue smoke doesn't sound to good at all... :D Mine doesnt really puff out any big clouds, but it just smells like fuel out the back. And yes, the vacuume leak was between the manifold and adaptor plate. I have the old gaskets that were used between the adaptor plate and Lseries manifold which the carb came off, so they just needed to be a bit tighter to get a propper seal.

 

Another little note for people who might not know this: The redline adaptor plate for a DGAV weber to K series manifold is EXACTLY the same as the redline adaptor plate for a DGAV weber to L series Datsuns. I worked that out after buying a brand new one off ebay and then noticed that it was exactly the same as the Lseries one that was with the carb, part number and all. :y:

 

-Alex

[tas_ae71]

the information i had on tuning carbs was incorrect, i had another go at tuning it and got it alot better. i rear and a site that when tuning turning the mixture screw out was leaning it. i turned it another 1 1/2 turns out and i found that wehn the secondary opend a farge cloud of black smoke ploomed out from under the rear. turning it in about 3 turns stops it from smoking and its idel as returned almost to normal (not like it has a 282* cam).

 

I'm not sure if this helps at all.

 

have you tryed leaning it slightly..? like 1/4-1/2 a turn..?