Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
  Raven said:
Do I hear twin-charged at some point Lesley? :n:

 

uhhh no, not in this car :D I have however started the modifying fund, I've saved abouit $500 already (my goal is $5500), it was going to be used to put the garrett turbo and piping mods in, but I think I'll start by ceramic coating the exhaust manifold, modifying the air intake piping, carbon fibreing a couple of bits, polishing up some other bits and MAYBE putting in some braided hosing, oh then mags and then the garrett (but that's a maybe cause I'm liking the current turbo)....

 

Lesley :(

Members dont see this ad
  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted (edited)
  love ke70 said:
hehe, just bring your revs up for a little while at the lights before lighting it up, i caught myself a couple of times getting used to a bigger turbo where i would just smoke the tyres. this was from holding the revs around 2500 at a busy roundabout or something, and then given it a gut full to get into a gap, and the turbo was already spinning quicker than normal. taught me a fair bit on launching a car. if you really wanna launch hard, don't just get the revs up and go, hold the revs up for a few seconds so the spool already is happening

 

another tip for launcing is the use of the handbrake! Mind you your clutch won't like this method heaps! :(

 

sit at the lights with the car in firts gear and the handbrake on........

Bring the revs up to about 3000rpm........

slip the clutch out a bit, not to the point were you move the car or stall it.....

This will cause the engine to start to load up and hence make boost.....

Try and balance the clutch and hold it here "staging"........

when light goes green - dump the clutch, floor the accelerator, and drop the handbrake all at once.

 

result......

 

this is basically a poor man trans brake. :D

 

This method would work better in a rwd car as the handbrake is on the drive wheels, but still works for a fwd. If your using this method in say a TX3 or GTiR, hold it at 6000rpm not 3000!!! :n:

Edited by Taz_Rx
Posted
  Taz_Rx said:
another tip for launcing is the use of the handbrake! Mind you your clutch won't like this method heaps! :n:

 

sit at the lights with the car in firts gear and the handbrake on........

Bring the revs up to about 3000rpm........

slip the clutch out a bit, not to the point were you move the car or stall it.....

This will cause the engine to start to load up and hence make boost.....

Try and balance the clutch and hold it here "staging"........

when light goes green - dump the clutch, floor the accelerator, and drop the handbrake all at once.

 

This way works very well, With the diesel turbo on the exa i used to bring it up to 3000 where it was very happily spooling and then let the handbrake off and dump the clutch at the same time and because there was already a load on the drive train it never spun but instead it just launched.

Posted

Yeah its actually quite a drive train friendly method (apart from the clutch!) as all of the axles/GB/diff etc is being pre-loaded, rather than a jolt when you dump the clutch otherwise. :n:

Posted

Yep, engine loads is boosts best friend, I do the same trick, but use the foot brake in heel toe. My mates t3/4 VL loved this kind of treatment, the launch speed was incredible, gotta love 300kw!

 

  Taz_Rx said:
another tip for launcing is the use of the handbrake! Mind you your clutch won't like this method heaps! :(

 

sit at the lights with the car in firts gear and the handbrake on........

Bring the revs up to about 3000rpm........

slip the clutch out a bit, not to the point were you move the car or stall it.....

This will cause the engine to start to load up and hence make boost.....

Try and balance the clutch and hold it here "staging"........

when light goes green - dump the clutch, floor the accelerator, and drop the handbrake all at once.

 

result......

 

this is basically a poor man trans brake. :D

 

This method would work better in a rwd car as the handbrake is on the drive wheels, but still works for a fwd. If your using this method in say a TX3 or GTiR, hold it at 6000rpm not 3000!!! :n:

Posted
  Taz_Rx said:
Yeah its actually quite a drive train friendly method (apart from the clutch!) as all of the axles/GB/diff etc is being pre-loaded, rather than a jolt when you dump the clutch otherwise. :n:

 

don't see why people find the need to dump the clutch on launches, pick up the slack and a solid feed out will inevitably result in a quicker launch as you don't lose rpm or traction

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...