ancullen Posted May 29, 2007 Report Posted May 29, 2007 Although I presume these ECU's wouldn't have the capability to run things like VVT/VTEC, etc. And turbos would be out of the question too I guess. Quote
Des Posted May 29, 2007 Author Report Posted May 29, 2007 (edited) Nope my tuner is running 10 psi from a whipple screw supercharger and alot of people turbo these motors coz they have low compression standard. The head gaskits like to blow at around 10 pound so he found out 3 times. The Delco can flick on or off anything from an RPM counter, So shift light, water injection, Intercooler sprayers etc but i don't how Vvt or Vtec is triggerd ? Edited May 29, 2007 by AE70 Quote
Des Posted May 29, 2007 Author Report Posted May 29, 2007 (edited) That's quite an interesting bit of info. How common is the 808 version though? If it's available on Commodore V6's, then I would think a lot of people may start picking them up cheap instead of buying a Microtech. Very common, In every VN and VP. The only thing stopping people from grabing them over microtech's is they are very hard to understand, So many variables. Vn have seperate computer for manual and auto but Vp has the one computer for both. Alot of car company's use the same computer as VN/VP but have a different Memcal to suit that engine. Edited May 29, 2007 by AE70 Quote
ancullen Posted May 29, 2007 Report Posted May 29, 2007 Sweet. VN's and VP's are as common as shit - which is convenient because their quality is shit too. :sob: Quote
Des Posted May 29, 2007 Author Report Posted May 29, 2007 Sweet. VN's and VP's are as common as shit - which is convenient because their quality is shit too. :sob: Lol, I will get a screen shot off his laptop and show you how many variables there are and the original binery that the Delco sends out. Quote
Des Posted May 29, 2007 Author Report Posted May 29, 2007 Didnt get time to hook his laptop back, He should be back again tomorrow or the next day. The stock Corona EFI pressure pump is flowing more than the VL pressure pump. :sob: Quote
Des Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Posted May 31, 2007 (edited) Didn't get time to hook his laptop back, He should be back again tomorrow or the next day. The stock Corona EFI pressure pump is flowing more than the VL pressure pump. :hmm: The Corona pump out flows the VL when both arnt under load but when under load the VL shits all over it, But the Corona pump would normally be pushing against a 2.5 bar regulator not a 3 bar item. So i have a new VL pump as the old one was making weird noises. Also VP engines can use the oil pressure switch to switch the fuel pump so if the relay blows the pump will still run but only when the engine has oil pressure. The previous owner just had both pumps wired from the oil pressure switch which meant i had to manually prime the pumps for the car to start easier. Darren rewired it to a new relay as it should be not just the oil pressure switch. Each pump has its own wiring now not just one thin wire powering both pumps :sob: We wired up the boot popper solenoid and when i hit the switch it fried itself and now the solenoid is stuck open so its shot and i need another one. Des :dance: PS: He is coming back after i get my license back to do some more tinkering. Edited May 31, 2007 by AE70 Quote
Des Posted June 21, 2007 Author Report Posted June 21, 2007 The Corona sounds awesome when its bouncing off the limiter :jamie: Ive picked up a spare pair of VP heads and I'm going to get them rebuilt which is about $600 with all new valves etc. Once that is done I'm going to get them shaved down to get about 10.0 or 10.5:1 Compression ratio. Since the heads will be shorter I'm wanting different ratio rockers to get a bit more lift out of the valves. Remove the balance shaft. I'm thinking about twin throttle bodies but they will be sticking through the bonnet with exposed filters in which i would need a bonnet scoop to be remotely legal, And of last but not least custom extractors. Get the T700 rebuilt with a 1500 - 2000 rpm stally, Shift kit between 1st, 2nd and 3rd as there is no point in kitting over drive as it wont go in over drive with the pedal to the metal anyway. see if they can remove the locker clutches as well coz they don't get used now and wont be used ever again so why not remove them if possible. Thinking of getting a VP diff shortened down etc and fitting a LSD, estimate price is about $1800 for that but i could get a hilux diff done for the same price if not cheaper. With those engine mods i would be happy with 260hp and at least 400nm of torque and still be street able and nice to cruise around in. Thoughts ? and if you say V6's are shit and i should go 1g or 1j or whatever well you know where you can stick your idea :o Des Quote
AE71 DRIFT Posted June 21, 2007 Report Posted June 21, 2007 With those engine mods i would be happy with 260hp and at least 400nm of torque and still be street able and nice to cruise around in. hahaha your dreamin mate youd need a massive camshaft to make that sort of power from a n/a v6 mate.. Quote
flat out Posted June 21, 2007 Report Posted June 21, 2007 i guess this fellow knows nothing about v6's, i guess he should put an sr in it? haha piss off to were your welcome. in my opinion i would upgrade the cam, xf throttle body . and do the heads up how you said, i wouldn't go commo diff, i would go for the hilux one allot cheaper and lots more stronger lots of ratio's can't remember the lowest tho :jamie: i have a 4.3 and a 4.8 here ) any ways good luck with it and extractors sound good Quote
Des Posted June 22, 2007 Author Report Posted June 22, 2007 With those engine mods i would be happy with 260hp and at least 400nm of torque and still be street able and nice to cruise around in. hahaha your dreamin mate youd need a massive camshaft to make that sort of power from a n/a v6 mate.. Mate its been proven already with the balance shaft in and stock intake and stock cam, Plus doesn't the vvti 3.0 v6 in the late model Camry make 176kw which is 230 hp and its n/a and its stock so 260hp from a N/A 3.8 is definitely possible with out a massive cam, Do some research and talk to some people who know what they are doing with Buick engines and you will be surprised what 3.8 can handle and do. i guess this fellow knows nothing about v6's, i guess he should put an sr in it? haha piss off to were your welcome. in my opinion i would upgrade the cam, xf throttle body . and do the heads up how you said, i wouldn't go commo diff, i would go for the hilux one allot cheaper and lots more stronger lots of ratio's can't remember the lowest tho :jamie: i have a 4.3 and a 4.8 here ) any ways good luck with it and extractors sound good Thanks Casey, Yeah the hilux diff looks more promising that the VP diff strength wise and cost wise, Cam might come in later on if it needs it but it wont be massive duration as i would still be driving it every day. What size is the XF throttle body ? i think they are 70mm ? But anyway i can alloy weld to an acceptable standard now from my new job so I'm planning the twin throttle bodies which would contain twin 65mm throttles either on top of the plenum sticking through the bonnet or on the passengers side hanging over the fuel rail and under bonnet. Found a bloke that can do custom extractors from stainless i think he said, Ive seen his previous work and its the best i have ever seen will find a pic. Top work and good price as well. Servicing the beast tomorrow and got a K&N panel filter for the stock air box as a pod will just suck in hot air. Des :o PS: I got a diesel mechanic apprenticeship. f@$k yes. Quote
7shades Posted June 23, 2007 Report Posted June 23, 2007 Diesel workshop over the road from my shed has 3 positions available at the moment... *hint* :jamie: Quote
NickZ Posted June 23, 2007 Report Posted June 23, 2007 (edited) infact there is a F3000 open wheeler race cars that run the 3.8 commo motor in N/A form making over 300+ HP (Ive seen one advertised claming 370hp) Commo diff ratios start from a 2.78 to a 4.7, i don't know about strength but a commo diff will handle the max power youll ever make out of a V6, I would go the commo diff as all you have to do is shorten it, its already got disk brakes etc and the is no shortage of limited slip diffs, even mini spools are only $80-$90, stick with the 5 stud patern and youll have thousands of wheels to pick from, remember the hilix will need the studs converting too. don't go anything above a 3.7 ratio (eg 4.11,4.3) as the motor is a low down torque monster and its a lighter car than a commo youll be sitting on the rev limiter all the time and not going very fast, you need to load these motors up in our light cars, the commo it came from weight 1400-1550 kg. Edited June 23, 2007 by NickZ Quote
beerhead Posted June 23, 2007 Report Posted June 23, 2007 If you can avoid it, never shorten a diff, the axels are never as strong as factory, and its a waste of money that you could have otherwise spent on beer :P A hilux diff will have as many ratio choices, if not more than a commodore, and they're the correct width. A 2WD hilux will give you a 5 stud, but you're lucky!! You have a corona, just use some cressida 5 stud front hubs, use old school Ford low offset rims!! I can get 20K LSD centre's for hilux's for $500 - 600. You always have the option to go a MA61 factory/ aftermarket too. Quote
Des Posted June 24, 2007 Author Report Posted June 24, 2007 I haven't made up my mind yet, If i throw it into a right hand corner it will just spin up the inside wheel but if i throw into a left hander it will slide every single time ? I also need a head gasket change very soon. Des :P Quote
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