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Posted

Yeah thats where i got them from, I tried:

 

Mitre 10 (goodna & ipswich)

Bunnings

Autopro

Repco

Blackwoods

supercheap

& Aussie auto

 

Blackwoods was my final destination and I was told that no one will carry a fine thread metric bolt other than a bolt shop so i thought id give nuts & bolts a go.

Posted

I'm a big fan of the local nuts and bolts. Hardly ever walk out of there spending more than $10 for what ever you want!! they're always like "....oh, $2 will do mate!"

Posted (edited)

They were so expensive due them being a fine threaded hi tensile metric, I used to order bolts nearly everyday at my last job and i nearly fell over when she told me the price so i just turned around and said well i need them.

 

I did alot to the harness today, I didnt realise how much more but I reckon that the harness is now 98% complete (I did say i was this far in an earlier post), I just have to remove the A/C wires from the harness and tidy the rest of it up, Should all be done tomorrow.

Edited by Trev
Posted (edited)

I have had some fun so far today with the GE harness and the E7 harness, Here are a few pics:

 

This is what i have cut off the original harness (all 3):

 

post-1373-1176435190_thumb.jpg

 

The 2 wires leading out to the left is all i have to sort out and the harness is done:

 

post-1373-1176435253_thumb.jpg

 

I have taken a little bit more out of the harness since this pic:

 

post-1373-1176435273_thumb.jpg

 

Remember the old factory wiring on the firewall with the auto plug for the neutral safety switch:

 

post-1373-1176435306_thumb.jpg

 

Well i took the plug off (left wire on it so if i run the auto its there) now i have a direct start signal aswell as the temp guage and oil light wires, Reverse lights and I will use the blue wire (B+ 'key on') for igniton power to the ECU which used to power reverse switch:

 

post-1373-1176435233_thumb.jpg

 

I have run it into the cabin (looks pretty) as i am going to marry all the wires upto the GE harness:

 

post-1373-1176435214_thumb.jpg

 

I forgot to mention that the GE harness will be fed through the larger hole under the one I just used.

Edited by Trev
Posted

I thought id give the GE harness a test fit, Can't wait until i tidy it all up and it's in there for good.

 

post-1373-1176442709_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

You can run the harness through the firewall on the drivers side so its hiden more and doesnt get a chance to get heat from the exhaust.

Edited by AE70
Posted

The harness will actually sit up where the other one sits, If i put it through the drivers side it would be pointless to the setup i wanna run as i would have to extend the wires and i want it to be plug and play so its easier how it is.

Posted

Hey Trev, loom looks great, if you want to borrow a RWD bigport manifold to get this going I may be able to help, I think the one I gave to a mate is gonna sit around for atleast another 6 months yet, which would give you heaps of time to score a cheap one.

Posted
Hey Trev, loom looks great, if you want to borrow a RWD bigport manifold to get this going I may be able to help, I think the one I gave to a mate is gonna sit around for atleast another 6 months yet, which would give you heaps of time to score a cheap one.

 

I have 1 but its on a boat or somewhere on its way from Canada:

 

2007/03/06 09:11 International item has left Canada and is en route to destination

 

I'm hoping it gets here soon but i can't really do anything until I get a T50 but i also wanna get GE RWD water plumbing and alternator bracket, If i run into trouble with the manifold i know where to go tho, Thanks Brad.

Posted

No worries, btw you can get away without the RWD altenator braket and water housings pretty easily, I think they sit in a similar spot to the 20V's. I was quoted $120 for a genuine rear housing and water pump from Anthony Kellam if you're not willing to run an external thermostat, may be worth looking into as it's half what toyota wants.

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