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Posted

ok rear part of frame chopped off and two new cro-mo bars welded back in using original diagonal braces:

 

 

085.jpg

 

086.jpg

 

Simpler, neater, lighter and stronger (I think)

 

What I need to do now is make another deck plate, a new front engine mount, add a few gussets etc..

 

 

This time round I will make the engine mount brackets very short and slim, I will use Cro-mo just like the rest but this time they will be out of the way. last time it was tricky to work on my exhuast and I didnt like it one bit.

 

Also the whole frame is significantly more rigid now and I am fully confident in doing jumps now which is good.

 

The only bad thing to report is this frame is using up all my Cro-Mo supplies at an alarming rate, and at about $20 to 30 a meter and a one and a half hour drive one way during buisness hours to get more is not a good thing..

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

update Dec 17

 

I was doing some porting to my barrel, heres a before/after:

 

 

064.jpg

087.jpg

 

- I ground the side trasfers to have less of a step, filled the remaining step with a high temp epoxy and then sanded it

- Opened the boost port entrance, smoothed it and took a nasty step out of the exit

- smoothed the trasfers and took some uneveness out.

- ground down the part of the barrel that protruded into the intake and also angled what was left

- widened the exhuast port

 

I will find out the results shortly when I run it next.

Posted

made a new power pipe also (top one):

 

089.jpg

 

I have already welded the stinger on (tail pipe) it too. It is meant for more top end that the first.

Posted

another pic I forgot to post:

 

 

088.jpg

 

there was a step in the exhaust port which I die ground out, then widened the exhaust port window itself and then I finally smoother it all with a barel shaped flapper wheel. Looks better in real life than the photo. Notice also how the barrel now curves right into the transfer ports.

 

 

 

 

This is how I ended up re-doing the front engine mount:

 

090.jpg

 

Once again all cro-mo steel and its slim, simple, light and tough. Worked out better than I expected, I do hope its strong enough but I am very confident. Another thing of note is I went out of my way to make it as far away as practically possible from the flange. This is because I previously had issues trying to do/undo the bolts holding the exhuast flange in place, so this time I made it so I had decent access, seems to of worked too.

 

 

Different view:

 

091.jpg

 

 

 

and with the old deck plate temproarily in place just to make it useable till I make a new deck of a simular design:

 

092.jpg

Posted

My 40.2cc (aircooled) pocket rocket had the exhaust chambers expanded and the air/fuel flow chamber from the crank to the head bored and ported, The carby was also drilled out to allow more flow and it hammered, One of my mates had a race prepped 49cc (aircooled) it had alot more torque than mine but i held it at top end, You should have a lot of fun on that :lolcry:

 

Here is a pic of what mine turned out to be, I even did the flame job myself:

 

post-1373-1198243296_thumb.jpg

Posted

trev: sounds good, its always great to hold your own with the so called under-dog engine!

 

78_7kRolla: stay tuned I am getting my nitrous system connected in about a month I hope!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

small but disapointing update:

 

 

A couple of weeks back I modified the rear fork on my scooter and also fitted a new chain and air filter onto my scooter afterwhich I took it for a ride. I got from the top to the bottom of the short hill and the brand new chain snapped and broke my third bearing support for the sprocket and also tore a tooth off my drive gear. Predictably I was pissed seeing it wasnt a no-name brand (Fenner). A week later I found my air filter had slip out from under its clamp and had since ripped..shit. Anywya I have since sourced some replacement bits and hope to be back on the road soon.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

finally an update!

 

I have changed the damaged parts, fitted my new Japanese heavy duty chain and made a tensioner as shown below:

 

093.jpg

 

Also I measured the plates of the chain links and the old chain had 0.6mm thick plates whereas the new chain has 0.9mm thick plates, also the pins are over 2mm longer. So I think its safe to say that at a minimum the chain is 50% stronger before the higher quality is even counted.

 

I was getting hyped up about taking it for a spin when it wouldn't start, With some aerostart it kicked over but only ran with it being sprayed in. I checked the carb and found it wasnt giving any fuel so I took it apart, found the fuel inlet valve stuck from the oil out of the evaporated fuel, freed it up, put it back together and it ran first pull. I went to take off though and it just died, as soon as I was off the thottle it started again. I just got pissed off and gave up for the day. Next step is to take the carby into peices, clean it out and put it back together.

 

I should also put some temporary paint on my frame untill I sand-blast it, damn that Cro-Mo rusts fast.

 

In other smaller news I am working out a plan to make a kick arse Lithium Ion powered LED array for some night time riding.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Love these kinds of projects! They're real fun and quick to work on. I've had a few in my time such as the old

whipper snipper powered bike, few pocket bikes and more recently a go kart, which is still in the build. Still have

to find a suitable engine to put on it as it initially started as a classroom project at school and was meant to be

a starter motor/battery powered machine!

 

Looks good! Any recent pics of how it is now?

Posted

Hey Sam. This thing is GREAT. love your work. I used to build whipper snipper bikes a few years ago. Love the feeling ya get when ya just spent a while making a bigger engine fit or something and taking it out for a spin for the first time.

 

Keep up the good work :P

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