Taz_Rx Posted February 16, 2019 Author Report Posted February 16, 2019 (edited) So about time I did an update.... The Tuesday dyno session didn't go quite as planned. Andy was chasing an ignition breakdown on #4. Just intermittent spark. It was running on 3 a bit when I drove it down to him but I thought it was just the bad tune. I popped into the workshop at about 430pm (expected to have it back by then) and he seemed a little frustrated. We quickly deduced it wasn't a coil issue, but wiring. Then I realised what the problem would be... I crappy Jaycar electrical connector. Had it swapped out by Thursday night with a new Narva one and all was good. Took it back to him on Friday morning (he said I could just leave it there for a week while in Burnie for work) via town for a meeting and realised he had knocked the overall fuel cut up to 50%. When I realised this I went in and offered to him that I would manually drop all the values by half to save him time... and me money. Week went by, and I hadn't got around to doing anything but I did realise it could be a simple process. When I converted to sequentially injection/CAS and quad coils I had to manually double all of the fuel map values as it went from dual bank injection to sequential. IE I had a fuel map on file that would be close enough for a starting point. So reinstated the old map (Andy's last tune with a couple of little tweaks by me) and changed the appropriate settings back over to dual pulse/sequential. Started with no throttle and idled (I don't have an idle solenoid) and drove rather well! So then took it back to him straight after. In the week it took me to sort it, he'd taken lots of dyno bookings and the next opportunity he'll have to do it will be Friday 1st of March. Meh oh well, another 2 weeks to wait. So that's where I'm at. Edited February 16, 2019 by Taz_Rx 1 Quote
ke70dave Posted March 19, 2019 Report Posted March 19, 2019 And just like that i put a face to a name:p What's the go with the boost drop off down to 6psi then back up again? Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Posted March 19, 2019 Huh... face to name? I'm not too sure. That was just gate pressure. I don't think it drops like that with the boost controller switched on. We'll see inn a couple more weeks i guess! Otherwise i mighty have a bit of an unhealthy turbo. Quote
ke70dave Posted March 19, 2019 Report Posted March 19, 2019 Punched your name into facebook. I think they call it stalking. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 21, 2019 Author Report Posted March 21, 2019 (edited) Haha ok Dave Drives really well Stu. The clutch was a little intermittent to start with, sometimes it was ok, sometimes it was a switch. Seems to have beaded in a bit now though and getting used to it. Can't wait to get some more boost into it. I'll drive it to Burnie and back next week then run in will be done. Oil change and I'll try and get it back on the dyno in about a fortnight. Edited March 21, 2019 by Taz_Rx Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 22, 2019 Author Report Posted March 22, 2019 At the moment, an s15 ball bearing t28 Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Posted March 31, 2019 Run in k's done. Fluids change today. Now to see how long I need to wait to get it back on the rollers! Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 24, 2020 Author Report Posted March 24, 2020 So long overdue update. Guess I'll be doing what will become inevitable in a lot of backyard garages in the coming months (Hey let's look at the positives) and getting some work done in this!! Where to start... So shortly after run in and the initial tuning I started having some clutch issues. Wouldn't disengage fully making it hard to get into gear (especially grinding reverse) and would also want to nudge forward at the lights etc. Spent months chasing my tail with it getting new master cylinder, throw out bearings, having the fly wheel refaced etc etc etc. Finally worked out it was loose rivets in the brand new exedy pressure plate. Essentially the clamping part of the pp want disengaging parallel to the flywheel causing an edge to drag. After a pretty drawn out warranty process with exedy they finally decided to replace the kit. I can appreciate from there side though that this was: a TE72 clutch kit, mounted to a modified k series flywheel, inside a rare as rocking horse shit bell housing, using TA22 hydraulics behind a motor making about 4 times what it really should! 😂 There's still a little frustration around the situation as I spent a lot of time and moon by trying to find and fix the problem. Also that faulty pressure plate was the one that was balanced and indexed to my rotating assembly balancing for the rebuild. Anyway... I'll install that soon with another t50 I got recently as the current one likes to jump out of 4th sometimes. Head gaskets 🙄 I'm not entirely sure what's going on at the moment. When I rebuilt the motor I used a permaseal head gasket. About 500km or so in that 'blew' and I got the last 2 genuine 5k gaskets left in the country. Stuck one of those in (with the ARP's as well) and it went again not long later. When I say BHG... the only real symptom is when you start it first thing in the morning it'll run on 3... or maybe even 2 because of wet plugs where water has entered the cylinders overnight. Not heaps but enough. This is actually a slight problem a had a few years ago before I rebuilt three engine! I'm weirdly kind of 'hoping' this is a crack in the head, not really blowing gaskets! If it's not that, then it's a possible crack in the block... and that's harder to fix. Pretty sure that may have been found when the machine shop had the block for boring as well. Anyway watch this space. Things happening soon to 'help contain fluids' 😏 Oh and the contents of that cardboard box is a whole other side project! 1 1 Quote
kickn5k Posted March 25, 2020 Report Posted March 25, 2020 Keeping fluids in is a good thing. Don't forget I've still got that block and crank if needed. Quote
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