Des Posted December 7, 2006 Report Posted December 7, 2006 (edited) hey hey, i know some one will ask eventually how to remove the pedal box so I'm going to write up a how to guide. Tools needed a decent socket set with metric sockets and spanners, Philips screw drivers and flat blade screw drivers and alot of patience. First off remove your steering wheel. You will need to remove the screws under and around the gauge cluster, the screws hold in the black plastic surround. Once that has been removed unscrew the 4 screws that hold in the gauge cluster and it will come out and remove all the plugs. Remove all the circled bolts and nuts. the two bolts along the top need to be removed the whole way along the dash pad. Remove the glove box by 3 screws on the back black section of the pull out tray. Look no glove box. Remove the screw from both sides of the dash near where the doors close. There will be a few of these under the pad holding it down, these must be unscrewed to remove the pad. The dash pad will now come off and this is what you should have so far. You need to undo these 2 nuts from under the steering column. This wire clip needs to be unscrewd from the fire wall so you can get to a bolt behind it. Unscrew the 2 bolts as seen in the 2nd photo below. Still going so just wait a min. Edited December 7, 2006 by too quick Quote
Des Posted December 7, 2006 Author Report Posted December 7, 2006 (edited) Unscrew the four nuts that hold in the brake master cylinder, If you are moving the pedal box from a manuel you will only need to unscrew two nuts on the clutch master which is located right next to the brake master. Pull the locking pin out of the pin that holds the brake pedal shaft to the brake master cylinder shaft. Pull the big pin out. Unscrew this one black bolt under the steering column and disconnect the brake light switch wires. There is 2 last bolts behind the windscreen air duct that needs to be removed. You can either break it to remove it or spend another 30 mins taking the rest of you dash off to get to them. I will cover the rest of the dash tomorrow. Edited December 7, 2006 by too quick Quote
Des Posted December 7, 2006 Author Report Posted December 7, 2006 (edited) Make a template using a old oil bottle or aluminum or what ever you have lying around, I used aluminum but other people have used a bit of plastic cut from the old oil bottle. You can either use these marks to line it up or use the studs from the brake master cylinder. Your brake lines might be in the way of where the clutch master needs to go so just slowly and carefully bend them out of your way. Once you have your template made up mark out the holes on the firewall, If your using the template listed in the photo you will need to mark it and drill it from the engine bay and if you used the brake master studs you can drill it from inside the car in the foot well. Once you have marked out the holes accuratly you can start drilling, Find a drill bit that is suited for steel and is the right size of coarse. Drill out stud holes 1st and make sure they line up with your template and you havent moved around a few mm. You can use a hole saw and cutting fluid to cut the cylinder hole but that can be a bit messy and a good holesaw isnt cheap, I drill a 8mm hole in the centre and drill lots of holes around it and then hit it with the deburring bit i found mine in the shed, Clean it up so there isnt any sharp nasty bits around that can stab or slice you open. The fire wall is pretty strong stuff so it might take a while to drill through at 1st but if you let the drill do the work you will be right. Test fit the clutch master cylinder in the holes to see if you did a good or shit job. If you did a good job it will go in with ease and come out with ease with out catching on the firewall. Grap ya pedal box and slide the clutch pedal over the steering column and try to get it in the original spot. Push the brake master cylinder back in so the studs go into the pedal box, Sounds easy but its not. Once the pedal box is on the studs put your clutch master cylinder in and do up all 6 nuts holding both master cylinders in finger tight. Push the pedal box back up and try and put the bolts back in at the very top of the dash, I needed 2 extra people to help push mine up and screw the bolts in so it is a bit tricky. Once the pedal box is in the correct position and your happy with it and it all looks good tighten up the bolts and nuts holding it in. Pull up the steering column and bolt that back in its only 2 nuts so its pretty easy. Now you can start putting the dash back together PROPERLY. If you removed the 2 dash supports other is hiding make sure you put them back in the right order or you speedo cluster wont fit in later. To get the rest of the dash back together do the opposite of the 1st and 2nd post. Any questions ? Edited January 17, 2007 by too quick Quote
turbo_rolla Posted December 7, 2006 Report Posted December 7, 2006 Would've loved to have seen this about 1 week ago when we ripped mine out for my 4age conversion! We didnt take the dash pad off, but ended up taking the steering column and other bits and pieces out along the way. The last two bolts (of 11 bolts in total???) you mention were the biggest pain in the ass. The one on the right was slightly easier, but i think we used a rachet spanner to get it. The one on the left behind the duct couldnt be accessed, so after about 30 minutes of trying to get it, we got the hole saw out, drilled through the duct, took it out, replaced, and taped the duct :P Not knowing what we were doing, it took us about 2 hours to get it...... :S This should definately help people out, and probably become a sticky when its finished. Good work mate :( Quote
tas_ae71 Posted December 13, 2006 Report Posted December 13, 2006 yes indeed, will like to see the wrest of this, as I'm about to start taking mine out in the next few days for my 4a conversion.... big up to you :P Quote
Des Posted December 13, 2006 Author Report Posted December 13, 2006 Ive been sick for a while and havent been able to deal with sunlight but i have made a aluminum template so you can drill the holes in your firewall correctly. I will get out side tomorrow and do something to it wether I'm sick or not. I still need to drill out the master cylinder piston holes but thats easy and will be done tomorrow. Quote
irokin Posted December 13, 2006 Report Posted December 13, 2006 don't forget that KE70s have a cable clutch hence no clutch master. Quote
JiP Posted December 13, 2006 Report Posted December 13, 2006 Ive been sick for a while and havent been able to deal with sunlight Are you sure that you haven't been bitten by a vampire??How are you with crosses and garlic?? I'll have to test it out today!! Quote
Guest Sbox Posted December 15, 2006 Report Posted December 15, 2006 (edited) Deleted Edited May 24, 2008 by Sbox Quote
irokin Posted December 15, 2006 Report Posted December 15, 2006 Use AE70 I was referring to this. Unscrew the four nuts that hold in the brake master cylinder, If you are moving the pedal box from a manuel you will only need to unscrew two nuts on the clutch master which is located right next to the brake master. Quote
Des Posted January 11, 2007 Author Report Posted January 11, 2007 I'm back and attempting to change the boxes over today but car caught fire so ive stopped for today, Will get back into it tomorrow. Quote
LukeAE71 Posted June 1, 2009 Report Posted June 1, 2009 To save people some time you do not need to remove the dash pad :bash: Quote
Victim Posted June 6, 2009 Report Posted June 6, 2009 This is going to be happening very soon on my AE71, so mad ++++ e-rep for writing this up, should prove beneficial when the time comes. Thanks again mate. Quote
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