demuire Posted June 25, 2004 Report Posted June 25, 2004 Yay. Getting a front strut brace hopefully end of next week. Yay. Then maybe I won't keep worrying about that dodgy chassis rail... Might be picking up a diff this weekend too. RA23 diff (T series 6.7"), blown center but otherwise apparently good, with TRX disc brakes on the back, also has handbrake cables although not sure if I can reuse them or not. Along with tailshaft. Have also made enquiries about a slippy center, seems they've dropped in price (2nd hand), woo hoo! And also made enquiries about a 4.3:1 ratio too :) Tomorrow the car goes on the dyno to see what sort of figures it pulls, I'm aiming for 80hp atrw, hoping for around 90hp, would be surprised if I get more than 100hp... Wheeeeeeeeee... Hmm, now I just need to find the money to pay for it all ;) Quote
mumblezzz Posted June 25, 2004 Report Posted June 25, 2004 What sort of LSD center are we talking about here? Quote
demuire Posted June 25, 2004 Author Report Posted June 25, 2004 TRD 2 way. Apparently *maybe* < $600 now... Hell even $600 is less than what they used to be ($800ish) Quote
demuire Posted June 25, 2004 Author Report Posted June 25, 2004 Brace is a custom jobbie, yes - nothing on the market will fit the car because of the 4A engine. The mass produced ones don't go high or far back enough and hit the intake plenum. The LSD I'm still waiting on a final price so I still have my fingers crossed... And where on earth do you find a new one for $850+? Best I've been able to find is approx $1200-$1500 landed. Quote
demuire Posted June 25, 2004 Author Report Posted June 25, 2004 Well yes, have a chat to your guy in NZ about a new or not new TRD one *soon*, once this other person gets back to me I'd like to make a decision... But yes, $600 for a 2nd hand vs $850 for a brand new, the decisions start getting tough :) Is that including shipping? Quote
mumblezzz Posted June 25, 2004 Report Posted June 25, 2004 Group buy what??? I'll be in for that. Quote
escorpse Posted June 25, 2004 Report Posted June 25, 2004 are u getting the strut made up?? if so where abouts and round about how much as i am after one for my car, prob most likely have to be a custom due to the i/c piping, not sure yet as i havent fully looked at it Quote
demuire Posted June 25, 2004 Author Report Posted June 25, 2004 escorpse: I'm paying $140 for mine, that's adjustable and TIG welded. Or I can get one just welded up (1 piece) for $110. I figured it would cost me about $66 just to get the end plates lasetcut, and then there's the stuffing around to get it to go over or around my intake plenum... If it was a straightforward straight bar I'd do it myself probably, but it's a bit harder than that, and my welding kinda sucks. For yours would probably be cheaper to just buy a 2nd hand AE86 one. Your IC plumbing shouldn't go anywhere near the strut brace anyway... Quote
mumblezzz Posted June 25, 2004 Report Posted June 25, 2004 You'll find the going rate for most second hand strut braces to be around the $140+ mark. Its sad that most AE86 owners would rather something that said cusco over something that works. Quote
demuire Posted June 26, 2004 Author Report Posted June 26, 2004 $140 for a secondhand one? Geez you can almost buy a new one for that... No need to get a branded one, just something that works... So look for someone who's gone to buy some Cusco or whatever one and buy his old one :) Quote
demuire Posted June 26, 2004 Author Report Posted June 26, 2004 Hal got dynoed today, pulled a measly 69hp on all 3 runs. I've been told that dyno is reasonably conservative and is one of the more realistic dynos around, and although I won lowest hp of the day (again), most of the other cars also pulled relatively low numbers 69hp @ 5740RPM (140km/h) 383Nm @ ~3300RPM (82km/h) Power is very steady (40-50hp) under 4500RPM, and then when it comes on cam it picks up and stays at closer to 69hp, dropping off sharply again at about 6900RPM. Torque starts high, and drops fairly sharply (down to 340Nm) until 4500RPM when it comes on cam and then picks up to 380Nm @ 5000RPM and then slowly drops off till about 6700RPM, and then drops sharply after that. AFR is good (~13:1) all the way till about 5500RPM when it leans out to about 12.5:1 and stays there... Next lowest powered car was a stock 260Z, pulling about 71hp. Highest powered was a 300ZX that pulled about 280hp (I think), next after that was a turbo 260 (280?)Z that pulled 276hp. My mate Evan's Walkinshaw pulled 191hp, missing a fair bit due to fouled plugs. As a comparison to another dyno (Redcliffe Dyno), Evan pulled 260hp at Redcliffe. Harry with his L18 Datsun 1200 (he'll also be doing Queensland Challenge) pulled 146hp at Redcliffe, pulled 110hp today. Quote
Super Jamie Posted June 26, 2004 Report Posted June 26, 2004 260 / 191 = 1.36 (evan's redcliffe to allstar correction) 146 / 110 = 1.32 (harry's redliffe to allstar correction) 69 x 1.34 = 92hp (fook's averaged correction to redcliffe figures) which i would say is about right. in general, i say engine kw = rear wheel hp and there's no way you can be losing 66hp (pretty much HALF your rated engine power) through a piddly little corolla driveline what sort of dyno does redcliffe have? you got pinky done at redcliffe didn't you? most people seem to take Dyno Dynamics figures as a benchmark. either way, that's not what dyno figures are about, cool that you have some indication of power curves, and AFR is super sweet now it's time for some head work :) Quote
demuire Posted June 26, 2004 Author Report Posted June 26, 2004 AFR could be better towards the top end. They don't think it is the fuel pump maxing out (although it could be), it could also be the fuel regulator but again unlikely, they think it is the actual map so the only way to correct that would be get an aftermarket computer (or one of those BuddyClub computers - but even those i don't think are reprogrammable, just a different map)... They're getting the Haltech plug&play ones soon, approx $1500, ouchy. Next on the list, rollcage and LSD. I've just picked up the RA23 diff housing + TRX brakes, don't know if it's the right one or not (T-series) but I hope it is. If it isn't I can return it. The TRX handbrake setup is strange, I think I'll need to custom make something. Will clean it up and start to strip it next week maybe and see if it's the right one... Quote
mumblezzz Posted June 26, 2004 Report Posted June 26, 2004 Just make sure you get a zenki (early type) LSD and it will fit fine. Quote
demuire Posted June 26, 2004 Author Report Posted June 26, 2004 Yup, getting an early type. What I'm half worried about is that it isn't a T-series, but following all the theads on Toymods it sounds like all late TA22's-RA40's had T-series diffs so unless this one has been modified from some other car (after all the brakes are TRX ones...) it should be fine. Was speaking to a brake person today, he strongly recommended going for the R31 style disc brake rear end and to avoid the TRX ones, YAY, too late :) Apparently the TRX handbrake mechanism really doesn't work, YAY... Oh well... ;) Quote
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