71-BEETLE-SEDAN

It's not bumpsteer I get that in my vw. It feels like tge engine is surging. Could it be gearbox/engine/diff mounts? I don't mind forking out for a set of lowered springs. Should I change shocks as well? And are the lowered springs still stiff, I don't hate it. It's just incase there is a softer option to stay low Thanks for the help on the silly questions too. I'm new to Corollas. But not to working on my own cars.

Okay I'm still on my p's at the moment so i don't really wanna be on cut springs tho. Ive read something about a sleeved coil over kit???? Okay ill have a look at getting the exhaust over it. I don't want ridiculous camber so corona arms it is. Now i know which arms i want i will re-read the sticky on it all. And thanks for that, which model celica, i am gunna use this car as a daily and also for some track fun to the better handling the more fun i can have. Also i have just got back from going for a drive in it, it feel funny at higher speed, like as if there is something loose but there is, could this be the cut springs, or is it more likely to be a diff issue.

Okay. So the headgasket is fixed and it runs fine. Doesn't over heat or blow smoke. Chokes fixed also. I now have questions regarding suspension. It is on cut spring. Is there any way to jeep it as low as it is now legally. It's over 100mm high at the lowest point fully loaded. And it's really stiff. Is there any way of making it slightly softer. Also all on the cheap if possible. And I can weld if that helps. Also the exhaust has been cut off short. Does it go o er or under the diff? And finalyy. Front end camber. Could people post pics of there front end from the front and explain what they have done to achieve there camber. Cheers JOsh

Alright, Yeah looking at the shape of the motor its were i would have thought the cam would be. And yeah the rule and feeler gauge check. The choke cable is held at both ends, i see what you mean but its still tricky to explain what i mean, But i have no photos but i will get some up here tomorrow. Also is there any differences in the radiators between ke70 4k motors and any other 4k motors radiators?

About the panel beating no I don't have a mate but I do have acces to a welder so I can make a jig or dolly etc. I wil ask more about this once ive made some measurements. The choke, no the carb end all seems good. It would seem that the cable needs a bracket off the air filter or something to stop the cable flexing etc. Maybe it's behind the dash. I'm not planning on doing a skim if I don't have too. I've replaced head gaskets before on charade motors without skimming without errors. So if this ones not to bad then I probably wont. I have a vw beetle too. So porting I will do. The motor is a "hi-cam". What's this mean? This is probably another silly question. Were is the cam located in these motors and is it chain or belt timed?

It's all apart now. I pulled it down as soon as I got it home. One guard is okay. But ones not. Now that I'm back to the radiator support and bare inner fenders I can see that the front of the passengers side is damaged. But repayable. The only thing is how? I've seen people tie the car down and use chain blocks to pull it out and also just use hammers. I can't get a hammer in there tho. Battery tray is in the way. So any pointers would be nice. The rails are straight an I guess it's got a good week alignment. It's also got a blown headgasket which I'm replacing as well. So most ofvtge engine bays empty. I'll need new headlights, new grill, new ps guard, Parkers for both sides, blinkers for both sides and a new radiator if anyone has one spare. Cheers Also another question, my choke comes out to far. I've narrowed the issue down to the cable moving in the engine bay. It seems like it would need a steel tube around it to stop it cutting the corner as you would before engaging the choke. But that's an issue that can wait

Hi guys and girls, I just bout a 1983 KE70 Rolla its a flat front, five speed manual and has the 4k motor. And this is my first post here so if its in the wrong spot please move it. It had rear ended someone in the past and Ive decided to fix the front end etc. It needs new headlights, new parkers, new blinkers, front and side, new "beaver panel" i think Ive read it as, the one that ties the front quarters together, at least the drivers front quarter and maybe some of the radiator panel. Now here is were the questions are. How critical is it that i get the beaver panel right, i think i have it roughly in the right place and shape, I'm not fussed on getting the car 100% spotless, i have one that i do that too and its too much hassle for a daily atm. Will i be alright if i just get it to fit and look okay or does it need to deflect air to the radiator etc. Secondly, if there is a factory seam that been glued that's come unstuck is it okay to weld it up? Being that i have access to boilermakers to weld it properly? And if there is a tear in the radiator support panel can i re weld it and get a strengthening piece behind it, IE a piece of flat bar welded along the tear.? That's all the questions i can think of if i have any more i will post em up. Cheers Josh

subs are only 650 but got a massive amp so all good there. I heard you can by a synchoniser or something that does this and is easy to install.

Hi I have 2 12inch subs and a amp, i wanna run some neons with this so that they can either come on without music and as well as be in synch with the music. I also want a switch so i can turn them completely off. I am sort of electriacly able.

Hi yeah its a camry, dunno why i said its a corrolla sorry bout that. Does anyone know what ive gotta do with it

Hi, I own a vw beetle but am working on a 1997 toyota corrolla 3 litre. Its timing belt is loose and needs to be tightened. Is there a tensioner or do i need a new belt. Sorry for the newb questions but ive only worked on aircooled vws.