jono1986

Yeah i thought i could do the same thing, but the mounting position underneath is about 100mm off. Just thinking of making a whole new cross member, will upload pics later today.

Hey, thought i'd upload some pics of a project that i've started. I bought the car from a mate for $400 and it didn't start when i first went to pick it up cause of a dodgey starter motor, they got it rebuilt and started first turn of the key. Had some exhaust noise and economy wasn't that great, so about 30 bucks later it was running sweet. During the whole time though it had an oil leak or leaks, so i thought i'd pull it apart and do a gasket and seal change, and also do a auto to manual conversion. Picture shows some damage to the door, the previous owner's daughter left the door open and it rolled into a tree :) , but 1 hour and a block n tackle all fixed :( Oh and this is when it first got to my house, so it wasn't clean yet will upload more photo's later, just got the motor back together and back in the car, but of course the gearbox mounts don't line up at all.....so will have to make something up

Go to the home page and half way down you'll see a rolla club torch, click on the link below that (was going to post the link but wasn't working)

Don't get it rebuilt, unless you have an auto electrical mate it will cost you an arm and a leg. Just go to an auto elec place and ask for a rebuild kit for that starter and pull it apart, easy (done them before).....the reason i'm saying this is, cause when i bought my ke35 the starter motor went and the previous owners spent 200 bucks getting it rebuilt. When it should of only cost 50 bucks or a bit more....

The map sensor has to have an output voltage between 0-5v and since the max pressure of my engine will be about .35 bar it will be easier to use a 1 bar sensor, commonly used in VN-VS commodore. Visiting U-pull-it tomorrow to see what i can get. Oh and taz-rx it has to come with a plug, but other than that its very cheap for a Map sensor

how did you set it up with no vacuum advance, just advanced the timing a bit or?

thanks for your replies guys, got the manifold today and it has the output for the brake boost, but my leading hand was saying something about not putting them together or something. Something about the different sizes, but from that other thread he just uses a t-piece that has both sizes on it...

hello, i have searched 28 pages of the forum and can't see anything on how to hook up vacuum advance on webers. I have a 45DCOE13 and about to mount to my car but don't know where to hook up the advance i have searched google and the only thing i have found is a "Vacuum take-off cover", is this what i'm looking for, or is it taken from the inlet manifold (don't get the manifold til tomorrow so)....

Nuh it says to set the distributor at 0 deg's, then the system will go from there. otherwise idle would be 0 deg's or whatever the ditributor is set at.....so if its at 20 deg's that means that idle would be -12deg's. And yeah you can mount an Sensym MAP sensor to the board but Jaycar don't supply them (the irony). reading the instructions in depth at the moment so will comment a bit more later

Thanks cameron that is exactly what i'm looking for, the kit comes with a coil driver (not pictured). The instructions show how to dis-engage the mechanical advance and also how to hook up a MAP sensor to the system, oh to by a new MAP sensor it's about 150bucks or over, but i'll probably just borrow one from u pull it. And Philbey what do you mean "setting to a particular timing point as well?"

Hey guys, thanks again for your replies. i was going to write a whole lot more but have an eventful day with the head (of the motor :) ) So instead i uploaded a picture of the control system and the hand controller. Oh and is using a weber going to change anything with the vacuum advance??

hey, i'm doing a conversion right now and have seen some difference's with the actual mount itself. Is there a totally different rubber/mount between the gearbox and the crossmember than the original auto box??? Oh and if you haven't already found out, from what i did today the speedo cable gets mounted to the opposite side from the auto

Thankyou for the replies, i'll try that progressive progamming with the mechanical. do you think i would be able to use the same method for the vacuum advance, the toyota manual says the maximum advance is 10 deg's at 10.63 in Hg which is about 0.36 Bar, so if i get an initial idle pressure it should be uniform in that as pressure goes up so does the advance??? Oh and i just remembered something my leading hand told me, he said that the mechanical advance is down in two stages. As in it increases quick to start then pans out (or the other way round).... I was thinking of not putting the system on, but since in this past week i've upgraded to manual and a weber might as well try this aswell.

Hey, i bought a programmable ignition system from Jarcar some time ago for my Ke35. i finished building the electronics and got stumped over plotting the original igntion timing values. I have read the manual and it pretty much says to use the timing marks on the crank pulley, also another method is to use a secondary coil pack and an ellaborate setup. So i guess if someone knows the advance curve for a 3k motor or an easy way to plot the original curve it would be very helpful.