jono1986

ummmm....ok yeah your probably right about the actuator then, according to the diagram theres a switch inside the actuator that tells the BCM when its unlocked or locked (can't tell just from the diagram). If you know how, put a test light on the Blue wire going to the BCM and the other side to 12v, then manually lift the door lock, test light should light up...also on the diagram there are 4 seperate blue wires so maybe on the back of the plug its labelled LSWO. http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff177/p...oorlocksEAR.jpg thats the diagram you need

You can't just turn it off, ok to get things clear you've opened the car (drivers door lock up (unlocked)), pushed the unlock button and no start. Like you said the actuator sounds stuffed, but if you've unlocked it with the latch up on the drivers door and still no go sounds like the actual immobiliser could be stuffed....without a wiring diagram or being near the car i can't really suggest anything else...lol get my trade certificate in 37 days :P :)

does the 'errr' noise come from the door or under the dash, did you try unlocking the door manually and pushing the button? i can do that with my pajero, unlock the doors then if i try and start it it won't, then i push the button and it starts.

Hey man, the reg on my alternator was gone aswell, went to an auto elect joint and they gave me the rebuild kit over the counter, that was a bosch type but i'm sure they'd have yours

don't know if you have an answer yet, but when i did the conversion on my 35 i cut the original cable out (like an idiot) and got another one from UPI. The connections were different like what your describing, bought the right cable off ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE30...=item48389e9b62 you can see on the pic if its the right plug

Hey mate, don't know if you have got an answer yet, but checking it with a multimeter won't show much, you need to use a high voltage leakage tester thingo :y: cause its over 15,000 volts going through the leads and a multimeter can't supply that. An auto elect joint will show you...

doesn't sound like an acutuator, could be the battery in the remote if you have another remote try that. Or if the lights flash but the doors don't open, open the car using the key and press the unlock button and see if it will start? If it starts when you manually open the doors and use the remote it could be your central locking system either a fuse or something like that. It could even be that the car battery is flat?

Oh definately, sorry if it came across that way, its just that when i rebuilt my motor i had cost in mind cause its not a performance engine. And when i went to api they were helpful....

Hey man looks nice, love pajero's man mine has gone everywhere, bit jealous of your diff lockers and your tires....actually if you know anyone that wants to buy a lwb NH pm me or something

Another update, some more photo's cause i know you haven't seen a ke35 before :y: :) yay engine all in and running absolutely sweet as, extremely happy with it. and the 4 speed is making me heaps happy before, also with better compression and all new stuff i feel torque where there was no torque before Thought i'd jazz up the dash a bit with some flat aluminium paint around the dials, and also took out the clock that didn't work and replaced it with a cheap tacho, which i regret. Am thinking of going a custom dash with electronic inputs ie speed input and stuff like that haven't finished this part yet, gotta put some metal over the tunnel and get a custom boot made up from a guy at work. oh and this is my boot setup, nothing special but it does the job :D Was going to get some body work and a paint job done, but i just got offered a place at flinders so i have to put it off for now...

Make it a purely audio mobile, with some lightning bolt graphics and just an insane stereo.......not being a tool...would be pretty cool

lol...hmmm yes um didn't see that, but the above posts says which rolla's have that stud pattern

I've seen a couple of people on this thread say API engine maybe good but they quoted me 300-400 or even more for a 3k head rebuild and machine and that, went to Just Heads on port road they did it for 300. Also theres a guy in Pasadena that does Welsh plugs Graham Matthews, he ships them out round the world, really nice guy to deal with, caters for every welsh plug, even dish type for my 3k head Just Heads 642 Port Rd, Beverley, SA 5009 p: (08) 8268 3166 Graham Matthews 11 Ontario Ave, Panorama, SA 5041 p: (08) 8276 2066

Hey guys, i'm looking at getting some rims for my ke35 and was wondering what will just go on with no suspension changes or body changes, i've been reading a few posts and am getting confused with offset and all the other mumbo jumbo...please help

hey, i thought i'd add a little bit, found a list of cars that have the stud pattern 114.3, don't know how accurate it is but here you go: 4 X 114.3 DAEWOO MATIZ 4X114.3 38 DAEWOO TACUMA 4X114.3 DATSUN 240Z 70-85 4X114.3 66.1 DATSUN 260Z 70-85 4X114.3 66.1 DATSUN 280Z 70-85 4X114.3 66.1 FORD CAPRI 4X114.3 FORD TELSTAR <87 4X114.3 HOLDEN ASTRA <87 4X114.3 HOLDEN BARINA <94 4X114.3 HONDA ACCORD 90-01 4X114.3 HONDA LEGEND <91 4X114.3 HONDA PRELUDE 92-96 4X114.3 64.1 HYUNDAI ACCENT 94-00 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI COUPE 95-01 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI EXCEL 4X114.3 HYUNDAI ELANTRA 01> 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI LANTRA 91-01 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI MATRIX 01> 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 HYUNDAI S COUPE 4X114.3 HYUNDAI SONATA 93> 4X114.3 38-45 67.1 HYUNDAI TIBURON 95-01 4X114.3 35-45 67.1 INFINITI G20 91-96 4X114.3 66.1 INFINITI M30 90-92 4X114.3 66.1 KIA CARENS 00> 4X114.3 35-42 67.1 KIA CERATO 4X114.3 KIA CLARUS 96> 4X114.3 35-42 67.1 KIA MEGENTIS 01> 4X114.3 35-42 67.1 KIA OPTIMA 01> 4X114.3 67.1 MITSUBISHI COLT 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI CORDIA 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVO 1-3 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI GALANT 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI MAGNA <90 4X114.3 MITSUBISHI STARION 83-87 4X114.3 67.1 NISSAN 180SX S13 89-98 4X114.3 NISSAN BLUEBIRD FWD 4X114.3 NISSAN EXA N12 4X114.3 NISSAN MAXIMA <90 4X114.3 NISSAN PULSAR N12 ET TURBO 4X114.3 NISSAN PULSAR N16> 4X114.3 NISSAN SILVIA S13 88> 4X114.3 NISSAN SKYLINE R31 4X114.3 NISSAN SKYLINE R32 NON TURBO 4X114.3 NISSAN SKYLINE R33 NON TURBO 4X114.3 NISSAN TIIDA 4X114.3 PROTON GEN2 4X114.3 ROVER 600 4X114.3 35 64 ROVER 800 4X114.3 35 64 SUZUKI SWIFT <04 4X114.3 TOYOTA CELICA 76-85 4X114.3 60.1 TOYOTA CRESSIDA 85-88 4X114.3 60.1 TOYOTA SUPRA 79-82 4X114.3 60.1 VOLVO S40 96-00 4X114.3 35-42 67.1 VOLVO T4 4X114.3 35-38 67 VOLVO V40 96-00 4X114.3 35-42 67.1

I'm Jono 1978 KE35 coupe Cumberland Park http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=35534

Hey guys thought i'd put a small update in, I've finished rebuilding the motor and installed the gearbox the first time! yes i was reading an article about an hour after i installed it and one little word came up 'spigot'....i forgot the spigot bearing for the new manual setup, so after pulling it out again, breaking a few clutch cover plate bolts, and installing it again we got it running. Was running really dodgey, so we tweaked with the distributor and it started to sound better until the dome welsh plug blew out from the head :) , so after all the stuff ups we got it running and was driving around testing each of the gears. Had an ingenius bracket made up for the gearbox mount which consisted of an extension bar and some fencing wire :y: :wink: So after testing the gearbox i drove it to a mates work and he helped/did it himself a new bracket up....i think it might be strong enough... :y: I'll have more updates tomorrow or over the weekend as i finish the tunnel area....

hey guys, thanks for the replies went to sprint auto they didn't have them then repco then motor mate, toyota said they don't exist and it's a k head or something, then motor traders and they said they know of a guy Graham Matthews, gave him a call and got a brass dish one fits perfectly. oh and can't fit a C shape one in there not enough room

Alright well, my dads going to take the head off tomorrow and we're going to put it a new welsh plug and make sure its in properly, i'll give just heads a call aswell just to see if they put a new one in. Another thing is when i picked the plug up it was like a concave shape with no edges like a cup shape it was just pretty flat, if you need a photo i'll get one

Even with a brand new gasket??

hey guys, me and my dad have just finished rebuilding my 3k motor and was cranking it. It started a little bit but the timing was way off so we fixed that, and when we wanted to get the motor a bit warmer my dad revved it a little bit and all i felt was coolant all over my legs as the welsh plug from the head popped out. Now what could be wrong?? i got the head rebuilt from just heads do you think they would of put a new one in their or the old one just gave way, a bit out of my knowledge base so please help to what could of happened?? like i said it's a 3k from a ke35 1978

One of my bosses says a 304 will go in, with a little tunnel work. Another boss said an 18rg something would be awesome, then another boss said some sort of fiat motor that revs out a million revs or something. The lesson i learnt here, choose an engine and stick with it, everyone has a different opinion

likr kiahn said it's only 2 wires so not much could go wrong, Positive should go on the back of the plug and and negative on the side, which you've done. If you have a multimeter check the resistance of the earth from the socket to another earth stud somewhere (not the one you used for the plug itself). Also check the resistance of the fuse by pushing the probes into each wire coming out of it, but don't have anything plugged in to the socket otherwise you can damage the meter. if you don't have a multi meter you can get real cheap ones from dicksmith or jaycar, And it doesn't matter what size fuse you put it the holder just as long as there the same type (Blade type or other), but obviously not too bigger fuse otherwise you'll melt the wiring a 15A or 20A should do.

Thought i'd upload more photo's of 'the beast' :) Just of the front again This is the piston i was just 'looking' at, crack goes all the way through the shell and there is another one an inch to the right of it :) And some Upgrades 45mm Sidedraft weber, just going to try it out. pretty sure just going to get some made induction noise :rock: And this is an electronics/auto project i have going, its a Programmable ignition system, on the left is the "central unit" and on the right is the controller to program it, joins onto a 'power transistor' thing to run a big coil and you can also add a knock sensor but i'm not sure i'll install one yet, will upload lots of info of that later

You mean something like this And weld along the to flange edges with a strip of steel or something???