lachiereeves

Charade looks the goods, How'd you go in the 6 hour? I'm sure it would of made a difference with the Koni's and the Camber! I will happily take those Koni shocks off your hands :yes: haha Unless you would happen to be have a spare set of Koni's lying round, I'd be happy to buy. Just wondering, how did you come across these? Do you know someone else that might have some?, I'm having trouble finding a set, even just the front two would do. Thanks Lachie

Found this on David's thread about his Ke70 racecar....So this is all him, I just found it. Like everybody is saying it'll be too expensive just to make a one off mould just for one door, bonnet ect. 'there is many ways of making fiberglass parts I can only tell you what I did first you must have a perfectly good hood with no dents or rust then you need to buy polyester and hardener, gelcoat and hardener, fiberglass matt ( I used 300g/m2 ) expect use 10 liter polyester and 20/m2 fiberglass matt for the mold and 1 final product wax for molding ( the product I use is named norpool wax 75W) and nonslip liquid ( norpool nonslip) a metal roller, various painting equipment, ++ I polish the hood that is already in a perfect overrated condition with autoglym 3-4 times to get low friction then I wax the hood 3-4 times with norpool wax, and you must wait between layers when that is finished you apply nonslip liquid and let it dry completely then you mix gelcoat with hardener and paint the entire hood and wait untill the next day so it's dry I would lightly sand the gelcoat the next day so you when you put on polyester it will attach to the surface mix the polyester with 2% hardener or whatever is written on the box paint the hood and put on 1 layer of fiberglass matt then add some more polyester and roll out all air bubbles since this is your first layer it's very important it is perfect else the mold will look crap wait until the next day or atleast 12 hours and then repeat the progress after the first layer you can add upto 3 layers each day, but you must add 1 at a time, if you do more than 3 maybe 4 layers it might get too hot and the mould can warp I would use minimum 7 layers on the mold of the hood, you should also add some reinforcements, rope is good and when soaked with polyester the rope will be very stiff you should also add some layers of fiberglass matt over the rope to get it even stiffer, I say minimum 3 layer over the rope when that is done wait minimum 24 hours after the final layer is done and you finished the mold, you can now remove it from the hood, I find that air compressor gun is very nice if you did rush the waxing you might have a big problem removing the mold.. wash the mold with water after it's removed and trim the edges, if some areas is not perfect do the repair now! repeat the progress to make a final product: wax the mold 3-4 times, add nonslip liquid, add 1 layer gelcoat, wait, add 1 layer fiberglass wait, add 3 layers fiberglass, finished I use total 4 layer fibreglass on the hood for a racecar, you might want to add a rope in the front for reinforcement, if you use 5 hood locks it might not be neccesary, depends on how stiff you need it too be 4 layers + rope in the front + 3 layers outside the rope = approx 4.5kg for the trunk I use total 3 layers without reinforcement, for front fenders I would use 3 or 4 layers if you use too much polyester the product will be weakened, if you use to little it will be air bubbles and crap do not mix too much hardener it will harden too fast! I find it better to use alittle less it's a good idea to be 2 people when you've never worked with this before.. wear a protective mask or you will feel funny after a while breathing the polyester also wear gloves because polyester is not nice for the skin and it's very messy to wash off expect that your first product will be scrapped if you can buy a fiberglass hood elsewhere I suggest you do it, you won't save money on making a mold only to make 1 hood'

Is that green 55 the free one? That I pm'd you about?

Yeah. They are cheap and easyish to find in that condition....Yeah, I wouldn't be keen to see your 36 smashed up haha. You could use your old 3k engine though cause that's the engine you have to use

You should race juniors Josh. You would love racing a 30 or 55 mate.

Yeah good idea. If you have a soft compound tyre on a slick track or concrete they wear away quick as....So you would only use soft tyres of on tacky or hooky track and they last longer.

Yeah. Things over there are cheap as once converted, but postage (especially for coilovers) would be a killer.

Found this panelvan on ebay today. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/JDM-corolla-ke30-bo...#ht_3420wt_1137

Somehow posted this twice??? Tried to edit and it did something.

Good luck with the project. What colour are you going with? or is that a secret too? :lol: Where do you get the dry ice from? Is it expensive? Cheers

Thanks mate. Been there a few times but I thought they wouldn't have it....never asked. Have you tried this yourself or know somebody who has? Cheers -Lachie

Andy, The mixture sounds interesting, we'll also try that (before alex). Good luck with at Nyora. See ya then. -Lachie

Yeah thats what we are thinking now. Easiest way I guess and they'll probably last a lot longer. Also how long do you think those tyres would stay soft for or a few motorkhanas (how long is one on average) do you rekon? Thanks Lachie

That makes sense... I saw that too. But it can't be right... I knew that a tyre softened with turps wouldn't last as long as a normal tyre so I was/still am confused. That means that guys tyres lasted 5x longer. I guess I'll just get the real stuff made for tyre softening. Thanks for the advice Johno. -Lachie

Yeah it is, and yes... its for speedway. Apparently the difference of a hard tyre and a soft one is night and day. So I'm guessing more grip and traction. Thanks for your help.