68krolla

Hey guys, sorry i haven't updated in a while. I went to Europe for 2-months and spend every last penny to my name as you do. I have to adjust my LCA brackets but if anybody wants some just let me know and i will get extra cut. I did consider getting a nut spacer for the hopper stoppers kit but 4mm is not enough clearance for my personal liking. I will be posting some updates soon i hope. Good to see everyone getting alot of progress done. Declan.

A couple of teasers for you all!!!

Thanks alot bAKER, I would be more than happy to show anybody on here just a pity that your on the other side of Australia. When its done i would love to come over and cruise with some of the other rollaclub guys. Its also good to see how many other members approve of my wheels. I spend 1/2hr out of my day just looking at them.

I'm going to use the standard internals on the block but i will get the whole thing rebuilt with new bearings and seals. I will have some slightly more aggressive cams and bigger injectors. The turbo at the moment will be replaced by a new Small Garret t28 bb turbo. I want the car to have good power and response but nothing to outrageous. Almost an engine built for daily driving. It will have some luxury features like aircon and electric windows, so I'm not going for the 10sec lightweight beast , I'm aiming for nice weekender to cruise around in.

Thanks mate, these wheels were the first modification i decided on really, they look sooooo tough. I am probably going to leave them black and paint a red lip around the outside and get some white walls. I still need to get the stainless trim rings to but there not that important at the moment.

More pix

I have been following a few of the other rollaclub boys and we all seem to be to aiming for the same thing when it comes to the forbidden ke10 front end. A more reliable and responsive setup. So this is what i have been upto lately. I have a ke70 rack and pinion that have been playing around with but I'm going to hopefully stick with the Ke10 cross member. I have discussed with my engineer the plans to convert the crossmember to a common LCA setup and he didn't have any objections as such, but I'm only in the prototype stages at the moment. I'm going to use ke70 LCAs with the adaptor I had laser cut, and ke20 struts which i also just purchased. I had to use these struts so my hopper stoppers kit would still fit. My plan is to make my own steering knuckles to make sure the Ackerman angle is correct while eliminating as much bump steer as possible. I am also using ke20 radius arms on the car so i will have to make a bracket to bolt to the chassis for it. Now I'm deciding on what sway bar will work to see if i need to incorporate it into the brackets!! The ke70 steering column doesn't loom like to much work to put in and it looks like the pinion will come out at a good angle towards the rack. I still have to cut a small section out of the fire wall for it though. Also the differential is on with no problems and the pictures are how it sits. I hope you can all see where I am going and any questions or comments are going to very helpful. Declan.

Ok, for those of you who were planning on purchasing the hopper stoppers kit or already have the kit for your ke10, you may have found out that the rotor will rub on the the lower control arm. The only solution that i have heard about is to have a 3-mm spacer made up to fit over the stub axle pushing out the hub. There was i few small issues that turned me off this idea. The first being that 3-mm is not enough clearance for me personally, the second is that you would have to machine down the spacer between the caliper and mounting plate to have it central and the bearings may not mount on the stub-axle properly if you were to push out the hub any more than 3-mm. So i decided that i could have a spacer laser cut to relocate the position of the strut. So basically the Spacer is bolted on to the steering control arm and then the strut is bolted onto the spacer. This is only a trial at the moment because i need to see if my engineer will approve of it. So i will let you know how that goes shortly. Also i wasn't happy with re-drilling the suspension components that bolt the spring pack to the diff so i thought i would have them laser cut at the same time. It is unbelievably cheap to have this stuff cut. It cost me $60 for the lot. After i have everything bent up will post them on. Now for the pictures-

First of all Merry Christmas to everyone and a Happy New Year, Here is my R31 Borg-Warner Differential, I had it shortened to the exact same width as the standard one. I went all out and had some new axles installed instead of wasting my time shortening the standard ones. The axles i currently have come with a much longer splined section that you cut down to size. i have a Pintara centre at the moment until i get it licensed then i will install a mini spool. All the brake lines are braided as you can and i just replaced all the seals in the calipers. So now the next step is to sort the suspension. I wanna get an extra leaf in the pack but without resetting it to have that little extra sag for ride height and I'm going Pedders shocks for the rear (same as the front). Also could any body tell me what they did for the brackets that the U-bolts go through to hold the springs to the Diff. I don't know whether the standard ones will be sufficient because once i have re-drilled for the bolts there will be little metal left on the bracket. So do you custom made them or is there another bracket i can use?? Any help appreciated.

No Bolt-on flares for this car, but i just pumped the guards out with a hammer and dolly so the wheels are covered perfectly. Thanks for the feedback fellas

The wheels i have are cragar smoothies 15x6 for the front and 15x7 for the rear so i had to pump, roll and flare the guards to make way. So where the wheel sits now is where the it should b positioned e when the diff goes on! i should be getting it back maybe this week. I'm really happy witht the wheels the give the car the oldschool dub look! I will update as soon as the diff is in!

Sup People! Big day for the build which i thought i would share with you all cos I'm that kind of a guy!! I got my halfcut, its a ae101 for those who don't know! 7 ribs and oil squirters.. i Also got a rex kelway steam pipe manifold with a t28 s14 bush bearing turbo ( will change eventually) and i got a OEM rwd inlet manifold (still to be polished). I went with an r31 diff that is being shortened at the moment. I should stay busy for a while now and heres all the progress pics..

Cheers man ill remember that!!

Unbolt the caliper and twist it around

Hey Guys and Gurls, its been a while but I'm slowly plodding along. I got brakes!!, the hopper stoppers with hq/chev bolt pattern ( for a reason ) and i got my tops engineered with toe-in, toe-out camber adjustments. I realise that my calipers are on back to front but I'm hoping that this will eliminate the sway bar hitting problem. Hope you all enjoy.

I had the original metal outer casings reused, and that metal shaft through the middle of the bush is just a metal tube its not ball bearings. I just took the LCA in with the original bushes and i suppose that they just matched it up from that. They were really helpful aye. I tried a few different suspension places but they pissed me off when they told me there was nothing they could do for me because there was nobody stocking them anymore. But pedders made the effort so they are now my first preference for suspension i think.

The coil overs are only test fitted momentarily because i still have to get the hats sorted out and i will post them up finished. I had all my ball joints injected because it is waaaayy to hard to find new parts. and yes i have a a solution to lower control arm bushes. Pedders did them for me but the are from a toyota Camry from memory. They had flanges at each end of the bush and one side was cut off to suit the length. They are a perfect fit. So thats all my bushes and joints sorted. Oh i also had a coat of two pack to finish them, lovely!!!

Here are some good pointers that helped me with my welding. These Guys are serious drifters though so i didnt go to the extent that they did, but my goal was just to strengthen the chassis but not to a drift cars extent if that helps. http://www.drifting.com/forums/tech-discus...am-welding.html http://www.drifting.com/forums/tech-discus...am-welding.html http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHEdtAVlbBw

HAHA no shit, i saw this up on the hoist at hyperdrive when i was gettin my r32 tuned. Looks the goods man.

two pack black on the front end and everything spot primed. There Was more rust cutting and welding i had done but now thats finished so ready for front suspension now!!

Well i've had this whole week off work to just trying to fix all the rust spots, tidy welds and finish the seam welding and get all those parts back in primer. Its still all the shit stuff but its gotta be done. Any way as it happens I'm usually trying to get the most out of a day and work at a good pace. So sometimes i do forget to wear my safety gear and while i was grinding my wels back i got a few sparks in my eye but thought nothing of it and kept working on. Later that night when i was trying to sleep it felt like there was sand through my whole left lid. It was so uncomfortable that i didn't sleep and tried to wash out my eye 4 times that night. The next morning was no improvement so later that arvo, after my parents and girlfriend convinced me i decided to go to the hospital and get my eye looked at. It turns out i had two tiny shards of metal lodged fairly deep into my eye with rust developing around it and i have been back twice in two days to have it removed. I also probably had arc eye as well. So for those of you who read all this learn by my mistake and wear your safety stuff. It so was not worth the hassle i had to go through and i can't work on the car for at least another 2 days. Any way here is how the car is going Ive cut all the rust out and cut the metal to suit so when my eye is better i can get onto the welding. There will be more pics up by the end of the week hopefully of the car ready to be straightened and ready for my front end to go back on (when i find my new bushes)

I welded in the Dash because i want the car to look clean so in the new place there will probably be a cd player or gauges put in or even the both of them. and i welded up the seams on top of the strut towers for the strength and it looks sweet! All of which still has to be body filled and primed again.

SHHWEEET!! Good one, 68krolla is always here for people who forget that this isn't there thread or car.. haha

yeah that should be heaps of time i hope. We will see how i go!!! Fingers crossed.

Haha good man!