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Posts
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Everything posted by Andy43
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What happens when you pull the choke out ?
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Yep I think luke is on the money
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3K Bigport Inlet Manafold Gaskits Where Do You Get Em
Andy43 replied to Andy43's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
Taz There just the plain type of Bigport with no water outlet. Looks like they will do the trick. Thanks Andy -
Rubber ring could be for spark plug o rings, if it was round the rubber o ring I would say dissy ? but it isnt so I'm guessing spark plug tube as there sqaure sided o ring. As the gaskit kit would cover most K variants you will get some stuff left over, Those ceramic things I got heaps in the shed, Cheers Andy
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3K Bigport Inlet Manafold Gaskits Where Do You Get Em
Andy43 replied to Andy43's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
Taz Once again you help me in a difficult spot. Didn't think about the search option, should have tryed that first Cheers Andy -
One of the jobs prior to getting the cage in, is to scale up the car. OK so a KE30 fully stripped, with diff, front end, brakes and steering is 388 kg. I would be interested to know if anyone else has done this. Cheers Andy
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don't be tricked by the casting number. I have one bigport that says 24042 ????? and another that just says 13. At 30mm dia of inlet port sounds like a bigport. If it has a welsh plug at rear yep you have a bigport. I'll pull my data on valve sizes and update tomorrow. In a nut shell. If its got a rear welsh plug ,Its bigport. There are some variations in the combustion chamber, and some very low compression heads. If its lows flatish around the top its mid port. As I said photo of the combustion chamber, one from the top showing the valve springs or where they were. And for good measure one of the back of the head. There are many variations of k heads, I'm happy to stand corrected, I can only comment on what I have seen. Cheers Andy
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Cool Thanks guys got it sorted now. Andy
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My 11 year old son rolls his KE30. Donald cops a hammering. http://www.youtube.com/user/youngapdz#p/u/4/F-lv2_aNKdc KE55 into the wall http://www.youtube.com/user/youngapdz#p/u/3/8uTwwbaHmZc KE55 rolls over http://www.youtube.com/user/youngapdz#p/u/6/Pg5szVBy694 And one for the datto owners this one is big http://www.youtube.com/user/youngapdz#p/u/2/5HmtWn3ehk8
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The local pinch a part has got a KE 70 diff with a ratio that I need for my KE30. I'm going to do a retro fit on it. How difficult is it to remove a diff drum to drum from a kE70 and what tools do I need ? Thanks heaps Andy
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Measure the inlet port, and post a pix of combustion chamber and valve gear, I should be able to sus out from there. Andy
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Ok The weather is bad, racing is called off, So it on to the motor. I picked up a near new motor that had been heat sized and siting in a blokes shed for 30 years, ( I got 3 3k and 2 k40 for $70 on ebay) Striped the engine down bores are within limits and crank looks like its just come out of factory. I have got on ebay a gaskit kit, $50, pistons and rings for $40 and bearings for $40, water pump $50 got a wade 446b grind for $80 and lifters refaced $32. So so far engine owes me about (say $20 for 3k) $312. opps forgot the engine paint better make it $330. I has so far honed the block, done the bottem end and are ready to install sump, I timed the cam a few weeks back but thought I would show you how I check the cam timing while the head was off. Prior to installing the sump, I want to make the timing chain cover removeable, So I have removed the studs and replaced with grub screws, that way best of both worlds easy to install gaskit and easy to remove cover. Here's how I done it. This is what you need And this is what it looks like to start with. Using two nuts to lock on each other remove studs Once the studs are removed put some lock tight on the grub screws and screw them in. Give it some time for the lock tight to set and put the sump on. OK now checking the cam timing. First off you must establish TDC for number 1 when its firing, not number 4 will also be TDC but will be rocking, that is the lnlet and exhaust valves will be open a little bit. SO we spin the crank around so the timing mark and balancer is at zero, I like to feel down the lifter bore of number 4 to confirm is rocking, if its not you will need to spin the crank 360 degree's Now we mount a dial indicatior on the piston of number one and move the crank slowly clock wise and anticlockwise until the pistion is at the very top of the bore. At this point we check the mark on the balancer and remark if required, I have seen some balancers out by up to 3 degree's. We now know for sure where TDC is on the balancer Now we move the dial indicator to the inlet lobe, The grind for the Wade 446B says if you have 72 thou lift at TDC on inlet to cam is timed correcty. Install a lifter in number one inlet and use a push rod to ready the dial indicatior, make sure everything is straight. (inline) don't forget to zero the indicatior. We move the crank in a clock wise direction slowly and watch the dial indicator, Once it reads 72 thou stop, as the lifter is unsprung if you go past 72 thou you will need to start again as you reading could be suspect as lifter may not travel down bore correctly. In this case my cam is about 1 degree retarded, its very hard to get better than that, in most cases the factory gears will set you cam up for about 5 degree retarded. OK so what do you do if the cam timing is wrong. First off you need to get some spare cam timing gears, never give these away cause if you a playing with cam timing you will use a few. For this you need. The cam gear off the cam. One spare cam gear to use a drill guide. A bench vise some g clamps or vice grips. A piece of tube that fits very tight into the centre hole of the Cam gear. A drill and a drill bit the same size as the cam dowel. First off remove timing cover, tensioner, gear and chain. try not to move crank or cam as makes getting back on easy. slide cam gear to be drilled one the tube face up. slide cam gear to be used as guide face up. Note CAM gears are 20 degree's spaced so if you line the peak up on one gear with the valley of the next gear you will have 10 degree retard or advance depending on what teeth you use. Here one set of 10 degrees. ( its a bit blury but youy can get the meassage) If you need 5 or 15 degree's just half it again, Once you try to get any less than about 5 degrees you setting will start of get a bit random, I normally drill 3 or 4 holes to what I want a take the best one. When its ready for drilling it should look like this. And the end product will look like this. Now its just a matter of installing it again and checking the cam timing, Note I have also marked the timing teeth this helps as well. Total cost so far $410 for project Cheers Andy
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OK I have checked the 3rd gear ratio and looks like its 1.38 to 1. The box has a identifying sticker saying K1 KE30. It has studs in the inspection plate and not bolts as later K40 did The extension housing looks like its standard K40 The Main body has one extra rib and a channel cast into housing ( see pix difficult to explain ) Do you have a Gregory's K55 manual ? as it covers both K40 and K50, I can scan and PDF if you want. I can also scan the Ke30 manual. I have compared the layer shafts to those in the K30 manual and it looks different as the K50 extendeds into the extension housing. Here's the pix Cheers Andy
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With a big hit like that I'd be checking the axel is not bent. Chock the front wheels, release handbrake and put in netural. Jack up the car and give the wheel a good spin and make sure it spins true. Cheers Andy
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I'll confirm the 3 rd gear today on the 2 to 1 box. I havn't seen inside a 5 speed box, I'm scrutineering a race meeting today if the rain stops, and where racing tomorrow I'll ask some of the other Corolla guys and see what I can find out. Cheers Andy
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I got one k40 with stud's in the bottom plate and a 2 to 1 ratio in 2nd and another with bolts in the bottom plate with a 2.2 to 1 ratio in second.
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I'll post some pix when I get the head back from the workshop. ( Friday) They look the same as a small port but inlets are about 27mm. I suspect they may out perform a bigport due to a better intake manfold design. If you look at a bp inlet manfold you will see a massive restriction about 20mm inside the port as the runner srinks down from 30mm to about 27mm. Where as a midport is about 27mm all the way to the plemem chamber. I want to prove this on the dyno.
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I'm after any info on K series mid port heads. What engine did they come off ? What model toyota were they used on ? Has anyone compared them to bigport or small port ? Is there a High and Low comp version. I was going to rebuild the one I have and do a dyno run, to see if its any better that our bigport. But I have just been told its soft so want so sus out if its worth while chasing another one up. Thanks Andy
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Yep ezyouts a great way to replace mild steel, with high tensile steel, that will resist all attempts to drill it out. I like to go easy on the bolts if still stiff CRC, and one belt with a big hammer, then try again, if still no go break out oxy. I typically break them somewhere in the middle of the process, then break the ezyout, mig a nut on to it, finnally give up and throw it out.
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Next Job is to call Evan to see if he has!!!!!!!!!! A brake booster, Master Cylinder and handbrake lever. Source one of those cup thinggys that goes on the firewall for the clutch as this car was a Auto. ( I think the local pinch a part still has a few KE's there) Front end and rear end need total rebuild. need to rear mount VT radiator. Kirky race seat. Alloy head plate. Source 3.9 diff and lock. Import Bilstien P0077 for front. ++++ heaps more. Expect build to take 12 months I will keep all updated. Andy
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Thought since I was building one up may as well share PIXs, Info, Highs and Lows with rollaclub members. I'll keep a update of the cost as well, Just don't heckle me too much each time I get ripped off. Build so far. Picked up a old KE30 farm hack for free. 10 year old son stripped car, with a Kmart tool set, I was hoping to sell some of the interior parts to cover costs but he broke every thing. ( bugger) Worse job so far has been removing sound deading, A paint scraper and heat gun work good here. Inspected shell for rust, yep it there in all the spots I would expect to find it. Noticed its been cut and shunt at the drivers front subframe rail. This wont cause too many issues as in a speedway rollcage, the cage will support strut towers and subframe. Rust has been treated as the car is golng to wear a fibreglass skin not too fussed about going overboard with the repairs, I just need to stop it from getting worse. You wont be able to see the rust as panels will cover it. Lower subframe rail has rust hole this will get reinforced and a plate welded over it. Its off to Scooters racecar fabrication in ballarat to get the rollcage dropped in, over the next few days. Total cost so far. $50 for Manual Pedal box and Manual crossmember. $30 paint and rust treatment. Photo of rust in subframe It is easy to see the shunt in upper rail, the lower rail is also Shunt but you cannot see it once its painted A few general pix of where we are so far,