Andy43

Altezza is on the Money. I like to add First up Google this book and get it. Four-Stroke Performance Tuning by A. Grahame Bell ISBN 978 1 84425 314 2 Read it every night. Mod the stuff they cannot see. Shave and port the head, ensure you port match to inlet manfold. (Check the head type and ensure you use the high comp head and you have flat top pistons ) Mild Cam. Get the flywheel lightened. Replace the thermostat with a tridon tt240-160, this gave us 2 hp on the dyno. Thermo fan it. Bigger pulley for the alternator ???? Commodore ones fit, Dyno stayed the same but the theory is good. Recurve Dissy On our last dyno trip we also picked up a few horses by throwing the performance aircleaner one in the bin, and modifying a stock one, We cut the sides out of it and blocked the hot air intake. Don't lower the car, and make sure the exhaust looks stock, Plan to do the lowering and extractors later, Same goes for window tint. The k series engines are a great motor to play with. You wont make mega HP, but there a great learning ground, And simple to work on, unless your alternatior dies. Andy

quote name='rianwest' timestamp='1298088770' post='504176'] That's what I did, I had no idea what a porta power was until someone suggested it to me. It worked really well, pushed most of it out but it still looks like shit, all the little dings and creases are still there and the paint is cracked. But I don't mind too much because it's still drivable and looks okay from a distance, plus I now have $1700 towards a new car :) Sounds like its all sorted out, Still sucks that people drive around uninsured. If you want to trick it up on the cheep. Dingo speedway spares in Warnambool Vic, Will sell you a fibreglass rear 1/4 panel and rear taillight section for about $50 each. You just need paint and pop rivet over the damaged section. In the pix the rear panel is wiped out real bad, can you pick it ? nope hidden under fiberglass, you can pick the rivets. The other pix is a glass panel ready for when the young bloke hits something. And there always bog. The Speedway Car see's the portapower every few weeks. We love em But then again we run on the 30m rule, If it looks OK from 30m is OK. Once the rails start to tear is time for a reshell. Cheers Andy

Have you got a qoute in writing ? might pay to get a second one. Thats the first thing, if you wish to take to court, you need a few costings. You may be able to push her 1500 up front then a payment plan. Porta power will push a lot of that out. But hmmm that door could be a rack job. Also do you need to report accident tp Polce ? Cheers Andy

We have the kids dirt karting. They love it. I did consider bitumem as dirt karting season shuts down in winter and this still could be a option. The bitumem karts are a lot newer than the dirt karts, I like the frames to flex so old karts where we can cut things out are the go. The engine rules also different, I don't think our engines are AKA legal. So I figure bitumem karting budget to be and please correct me If I'm wrong, 700 to join and yearly fee, then about 3000 to 4000 for a kart ? X2 as i have two kids. I was curious about track options and in the longer term I think this could be the way to go. Thanks So far Andy

Any help please ? If you check out what in the shed would be good Thanks Andy

Sound like the vacume switch that changes the vac advance on the dissy depending on coolant temp. chase the hoses through one goes to the dissy and 2 to the carby I think, If it is this yep you can run OK without it you might just loose some part throttle power.

Here's some stuff I posted on push rod lengths. http://www.rollaclub...__1#entry450919 If you need some 4k ones PM me you can have them. If you retard the cam the compression pressures will be reduced and hence it may run on pump gas, I aggree good cam choice may be a option. Cheers Andy

Been reading about, cooling the rear of the head, so you can up the compression ratio. Theory relates to the fact the small holes in the gaskit to remove cooling air locks in the block around cylinders 1 and 2 cause inbalance in the head temperature, this makes the head runs hottest around the combustion chambers for 3 and 4, This makes 3 and 4 prone to detination and over heating, and Hence compression ratios are wound back as a fix. Has anyone plummed from coolant drain point on the front of a 3k block to the heater port on the rear of the head, in order to improve the cooling efficiency of the head ? This of course is all theory. Cheers Andy

Harvey wreakers in Langwarrin have a KE55 coupe. Body looks good with minimal rust, missing passanger seat, rear seat, and doesn't start. The rest look pretty good. $500 is the asking price

I read about this in the yellow book, I removed the bypass hose on the race car once this caused all sort over heating issues. Do KE1X get around this by flowing coolant through the heat core ? Cheers Andy

Yep I aggree, two types. Go for the nippon one as it fits in easy.

Most important, leave the bypass hose between the water pump and the thermostat housing in. This gets the coolant flowing around the block while the thermostat is closed. If you block the bypass house the thermostat doesn't heat up and hence fails to open. Also leave the thermostat in, this controls the water flow and by giving the water pump something to push against stops hot stops in head and block by compressing any air that may remain in system. lt also slows water flow down through radiator. Cheers Andy

Need Help ! Toyota 3k carbys came out with varying venturi sizes. I need to find out the number stamped on the silver tag that is attached to the float bowl screws for the Carby that came out with the 25mm secondarys. I have a number of these carbys but have mixed the tags up, I need to put the correct tag on the correct carby so I can get approval to race with it. The 25 mm venturi can be identifyed but looking into the venturi and checking the number stamped on it. If you have a few of these hanging around the shed, I would be forever grateful if you could check them out for me. I suspect the number is 24373 but just want to be sure. Thanks Andy

Ohhhh I think i just died and have gone to heaven. Call what you want 137e(3k-r) still sounds 3k down low. Any info of the Corolla ? featured would be nice. looks KE30 from the front, but from the rear all I can say is looks good. Just wish they has subtitles CYA Andy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_SkekfNdZ8

Hot Idle compensator valve ? Have you had a look to see where the fuel is flooding. We run a one way breather valve on the speedway car, The fuel system does presusise a lot, on a hot day the filler will blow you hand off, But we never have flooding problems.

Guys before I get shot the wiki is down. Need to know 3k variants for KE30. My back yard collection on Id plate. one KE30 with a 3k-c one KE30 with a 3k-h what other variants could I expect on a KE30 ? I'm guessing 3k,3k-b,3k-d but not sure Thanks Andy

Sounds like needle and seat has some crap in it, or float is set to high

I paid $ 75 for a ke70 diff 3.9ratio drum to drum at the local pinch a part, (oppps did i say that should be pick a part !)

Hey Guys and Girls. Just want to know know about other Motorsport options for Kids My 12 yo races a KE30 speedway and Dirt Karts My 8 yo races Dirt Karts and will move into speedway when she turns 10. Are there any curcuit options for juniors ? If so any info on approx cost, seasons ( Summer or Winter ) track locations Vic. Would be great. Thanks Andy

Mooseman is on the money. Thinking about what you need to do. First step is the measure compression on current motor, This will give you a indication of its wear. If the compression is good. Cam, If in Melbourne go Wade, Clive or Crow, If not ask around here. While the cams out get a fresh chain, and gears. Take the time to dial the cam in, and most important set valve lash to grinder recommendions. Head Shave the head, and get the ports and springs worked over, remember use 4k valves, and rocker gear, Beware rocker gear bolts from early model 3k's are longer use them and you will strip threads, also back rockers right off before removing are installing as the threads in the head strip easy. don't get to fussed about finding a bigport head as once a small port is done up will flow better than a bigport. Exhaust Extractors or the go. Carby Nikki off a Gemini is the go check out the rolla club wiki for details. IF you have to replace the clutch get the flywheel lightened, This makes for 1st and second to be very zappy. If the compression is low you will need a bottom end rebuild. Remember your talking 1.3 litres, no EFI, At best you will keep up with stock commodores and falcons. The good side is the lump at idle will turn heads. The small revvy motor is fun to drive.

This ones as budget as you can get. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/46468-ke30-ascf-1200-junior-sedan-build-speedway/page__gopid__498689 Check the engine rebuild bit

Thanks dave. The plan is show a bit of techo stuff and show it isn't that hard, And to show how cheap it is to get the kids into racing. Some of the speedway stuff is a bit agricultural and not hi tech but it all fun. Andy

The engines done heads on. And yep change of plan. Decided need a test bed for the speedway car, and after seeing my Son's effort in running in his motor the last few meetings, Think its better for me the run the engine in. So the daily drivers 3k get dumped, The race motor goes in. The budget built motor completed. Out comes the old klunker In goes the budget one. So how's it run. Lumpy idle, the carby needed bigger jets. The run in has come along nice, getting 160 psi per pot. The engine pulls good through rev range and spins up to 8,000 nicely. Next job, this one comes out and the proper built race engine goes in.

:fuzz: Officer that's not a oil leak, Its Toyota's KE30 rust prevention system

It's a thing of Beauty, And ohhh the head and injection system