Andy43

Agree Tune up !!!! Do all the stuff, Oil, All filters (Air, Fuel oil), plugs, points, cap, rotor, if the leads look old change them too. Inspect the the plugs this should tell you how the carby is running . Check compression about 125 psi is the lowest you should see and all cylinders should be about the same. Be sure you check the timing, Id set to 10 and back off the 8 if it pings, you need to disconnect vac line to dissy when setting timing. Have a good look at the carby make sure the flapper vavle is working. Check the exhaust and make sure its not been flattend. Is it burning oil ? Is it losing water ? Cheers Andy

Alttezza Have you got a pix of the pulley, I would like to see the marks ? Thanks Andy

We always port match the inlet and have a step on the exhaust.(.i.e. the exhaust port is smaller than the extractor / manafold )

Thanks The boss was coming so I needed to exit quick LOL Andy

You need to understand squish and swirl. And Bigger is not always better. opps typo now fixed :-)

For a Denso or Bosch ?

If your in desperate need I can mail you a second hand one,

There's Plenty of traineeships in Telecommunications. With NBN its only going to get bigger Cheers Andy

While Idling spray the manfold with brake cleaner, from the top and below. If it stalls you have a inlet leak. Are you using an extractor gaskit ? Cheers Andy

Opps should have read the post better first I'm refering to the 3k carby's mech secondrys and flapper valve and not the 4k carbys as they are totally different beasts If you have a good parts guy in Toyota, He should be able to track down jets from Japan. You will end up paying about $12 per jet. Drilling them out is a tricky job, quite often you will go from too lean, to too rich with the twist of a drill. We are running 114 in a primary Venturi of 21mm and 181 in a secondry venturi of 25mm, If you can source a 3k with 25mm secondry venturis grap it. The most common sec venturi is 24mm if you get one of those Jet secondry to 177. These jet sizes are only ball park figures from my testing. Becarful changing jets you don't miss the washer that goes under the jet. Miss that and you will have all sorts of mixture problems Be careful when rebuilding carby there are two steel balls that have a habit of disappearing, One lives under the discharge weight of the accelerator pump circuit, the other lives under the spring of the accelerator pump, there different sizes so don't mix them up. If missed they can cause mixture problems as the air rushing through the venturi has a habit of sucking fuel out of the accelerator pump discharge nossel,( Noting most 3k carbs will do this miss the balls and it will be worse.) Other things that may trip you up is the screws that connect the throttle body to the main body, one screw has a hole in it this acts as a vacume passage and needs to be installed in the hole closest to the float chamber. Also beware some 3kc engines had a carby with a 19mm primary they are great for around town as offer a bit more down low, but are a piece of rubbish when expected to perform in the upper rev range. Cheers Andy

Is the exhaust manafold a single or dual outlet type ?

I have always set 1 to rocking adjust 4, set 3 to rocking adjust 2, and so on. Our old speedway motor had a crow cam, I used to set that to 12 cold and then readjust to 16 hot. As a interesting activity set to 8 cold then check compression, then re adjust to 12 cold and recheck. When I set them cold I've always noticed the rear ones seem to have less clearance when hot. Remember the head will run hotter with less exhaust valve clearance. Cheers Andy

If you use bosch points get the GB 752 points, There heaps better than the GB 534 They were designed for the XU1 and fit a bosch 3k / 4k dissy. They have a higher spring pressure so less chance of point bounce. I like to set the points to the lower limit, in the case of 3k about 16 thou, This gives the coil a greater charge time. Cheers Andy

Twinky I little trick I learnt was to spray disk brake cleaner around the inlet manfold, Any vacum leaks will stall the engine quick smart. Be careful around the the throttle body, as the carby will suck it in there and give you a false reading. Try Altezza's trick as well blocking of PCV and Brake booster. As I said I had a bad PVC last week took me a hour or two to sort out, It was only a few weeks old as well. Cheers Andy

Ahhh forgot we were talking 5k, There non adjustable. Correct they should auto adjust to zero clearance. Has the head, or rocker posts been shaved ? The lifter might be at the bottom of its adjustment which would cause the valve not to shut. don't know how to check this, I'm interested to see the responses for this. Cheers Andy

Twinky Whats the valve clearance like ? That will cause all issues from rough idle, overheating to low compression. I'd expect the compression to be 130 to 160 psi, generally the lumper the cam the low compression will read. My idle last week went from good to bad, 3 carbys later discovered PCV valve was stuffed. Cheers Andy

That curve doesn't look right, should be flat lining after about 3500 ???? I think For what it worth, All of our cams have bugger all vac at idle, I found the vac advance plays havoc down low, So I don't use it . On the track the engine lives between 4000 and 8000 RPM, I just set the advance for 34 at 4000 and away we go. At the engine basicly run's in two states hard on or hard off, I don't think we need a recurve, But I would be interested in others opinions on this. As I may have a flaw in my theory. Aggred for road running recuve is the way to go, As there too much to loose down low from bad timing. I'd be interested to know what others are running for total advance . Cheers Andy

Ahhhh cool So the transfer case doesn't bolt up to the gear box like a Landcruser or Patrol. Tricky little buggers at Suzkui. Any chance on posting a pick of the transfer case and gearbox when you have it all bolted together. Also whats the plan to get the carby vertical ? as the 4k's are nomally on the slant Cheers Andy

How do you manage the tranfere case ?

Trev Nice LJ, and good fit-up. How did you go with the rack clearance ? And Hey whats to go like ? Andy

Sound like a new way to reduce the back emf off the coil.

I put a 350 in a LJ Torona once, went great in a straight line, but would not turn. My mate turbo'd his 202 LJ, His mod was nicer to drive, needed no engineering back then, He left the granny spec silver paint and wheels on, and he never got a hard time off the cops. Small block sounds nice and a strip only car may be a good thing, They only just shoe horn into a LJ, I'm guessing KE30 would need major engineering. I'd save my cash, have you considered a beams or 4age and add some nitrous for the 1/4 mile ? Cheers Andy

I used to flush out the fuel system with Petrol, After running methanol as it used to eat everything. Carbys will need more than just jetting up, air bleads and so on need up sizing as well. timing can be advanced a bit more. I'd guess ethanol is simlar.

Hey Blokes When is it ? dates and location Thanks Andy

Hmmm too many beers, Got all confused with the pulley thing, Its the starter I was refering too .:bash: We keep melting on solder joints inside the things, I suppose this is good as it means the young bloke is putting his foot down. Nice Pickup Cheers Andy