Andy43

Does anyone know what's avaliable in K series exhaust manifolds that were used on fork lifts ? Our racing rules state no extractors and on mod's to the exhaust manifold, no heat sheilds other than OEM. I'm looking for a manifold that doesn't pre heat the base of the carby and would flow simlar to oem dual outlet, in that endless quest of horsepower. Cheers Andy

Hi All Would anyone know what the volume in cc's in the dish on a 4k dished piston. Thinking about hitting the dyno, with a 4k dished pistons and closed chamber mid port on a 3k, to see if it makes more power than our current 3k flat top with bigport head. Just need to check the CR ratio on the midport combo is OK prior to building one. Cheers Andy

Thanks Just finnished a reshell, and had the same problem. The crossmember hasn't broken, So I think it works OK

Langdon Here's how I did it. manual xmember and some 3mmX25MMX25MM angle I think and a mig. Andy

All If its been posted before sorry. If you havn't seen it enjoy. Andy

The quick way to check cam timing is. Bring 1 up to TDC, by spining around the crank until to get to 0 on the timing mark. Whip the rocker cover off, the rockers for 1 or 4 should be rocking .i.e. both exhaust and inlet valves open the same amount. at the same time the opersat cylinnder will have both valves closed. .i.e If one is rocking four will be closed or if four is rocking one will be closed. This is also the best way to do valve lash, just work your way though the firing cycle spinging the crank 180deg at a time. CYA Andy

I'd be going bsck to basic's first What did the plugs look like, can you post a pix ? New plugs and points oh don't forget fuel filter too. Check dissy and rotor for carbon arching. When you had the carby apart did you loose the little ball for the accellrator pump, IF this is missing the pump discharge nossle can leak fuel into primary venturi. How did you adjust the float ? you need to hold air horn upside down and adjust for about 5mm clearance between float and air horn. Check timing. Did you check the little filter inside airhorn that is connected to the seat. Note I get icing on my daily but it's usally on fogey night, never during the day. Let us know how you go.

Chris, When is it smoking and what colour is the smoke ? I'm not sure about the vac lines but I think you can plug the whole lot. The three that could be of importance is The hot idle compernsator that goes from the side of the carby to the jigger on the top of the carby. The dissy vac advance. The vac lead to the vac secondry I'm sorry i cannot rememeber what all the lines do. This my help You can strip all the dashpots off the carby except the vac advance one. The below pix shows the vac advance. cheers Andy

Not sure what everbody else thinks, I've flipped the leaf's in a ke30, did nothing good for the handling. If you want to lower, get the eye's of the springs reversed. By flipping the spring you get a flat leaf spring, as the suspension travels down the leaf shackel angle to the spring increases this causes the spring rate to decrease, (try thinking about the distance between the eyes) Never tried lowering blocks so cannot comment on those. Cheers Andy

Cool thanks

Evan, Whats the tip on stopping the sump gaskit leaking around the rear main, I got 2, 3k's both leaking there. :-(

Jaesn, If you need some 4k pushrods PM me, I'll post to you a set for free, I've got no use for them. Andy

Ryco Z9 fits, 3k's don't know whats its like as a filter, I'll cut one apart now.

Philbey, Thats tricky do you have a formula or web link. Thanks Andy

Yep Taz_Rx is 100% correct

The stock fuel pump delivers 900cc per minute at 2900rpm Its pressure 3 to 4.3 psi. On a ke30 if you unscrew the fuel pump inlet connection you will see a restriction, If you have a old inlet manafold lying around, you can remove the connection for the power booster unscrew that, drill it out and install on to the fuel pump inlet to replace the restrictive one.

The Kick down switch seems the way to go. Use that to disconnect the field winding to ensure to alt is 100% disconneted. Need to swap the alternator for one with an external reg. Prior to doing any permanent wiring, we have some dyno time booked in, I'll do two dyno runs, both at full electrical load. One with the alternator charging and the other with the field winding disconnected. I'll let you know how I go.

When your only making 75hp or so its 2% improvment for free.

I've found about 3 or 4 different length dipstick on 3k's, I just filled the sump to what toyota said the capacity should be and adjusted one to suit.

Looking at reducing power losses to a 3k via a alternaor disconnect cct. Can I just add a solanoid to disconnect the output from the alternator ? Or would a better option be to open the field winding via a relay ? Thanks Andy

We run the TT240-160, the engine runs a little cooler and we make a few extra HP on the dyno.

I'd be keeping the paint off the pins, and plenty on grease on them when you reassemble.

Whats the valve clearance set to ? As the cam gets bigger the clearances increase. Also if it says hot set when engine hot

The anti dieseling solanoid disconnects the idle cct to stop the engine running on when switched off. If you don't have one, don't worry not all 3k's had them. If you do have one, replace with a bolt or connect the wire to +12V A quick way to check valve timing is to spin the balancer to TDC on 1 (firing). Whip the rocker cover off, and look at the rockers for 4 they both should be open a equal amount. Also check your fuel tank is not pressuring, this is due to the fitment of the one way breather vavle requied by the ASCF. We have had this cause flooding of carby, as the needle and seat cannot withstand more than a few PSI. I fix is simple just depressurise the tank if the car has been sitting arounf for a few days. CYA Andy

the flywheel in my daily is shaved to about 5kg. made heaps of difference in 1 and 2nd.