stevejw

Mine is 240mm from the F mark to the rubber flange where it touches the block tube .which is the same as a 4k

Drives great ,with the 5k even with the low compression off boost (2500 rpm) would be just like a NA 4k .With boost very different .The supercharged 4k had a lot of torque down low ,but this is very similar .Often go around corners in 3rd,4th gear & just accelerate away as if it was in 2nd .Have to be careful if the road is wet it will spin in every gear inc 5th if you accelerate too hard .

About time I did a bit of an update .I replaced the std carbie with a 34adm weber from a 4.1 falcon as I made the manifold to suit that carbie .It improved the boost & power straight away as the std carbie was a bit of a restriction. I've added a manual boost control & can easily take it past 20psi now the std carbie would only let me get 15 . I've replaced the 5k head with a well ported 4k to lower the compression .Some problems have poped up .The clutch is not happy a HD one is to be fitted & the normal manifold gaskets not liking the boost but all just little things to sort out as I get time .Attached is a pick after a bit of hard running the manifold is still glowing red as I let the motor idle & cool down

3 year old post :lolcry: wonder if it is still an auto or car is still on the road !

The measurements confirm it. As I said above it is the seal that goes into the oil filler cap screw on type .

The rubber one looks like it is the seal inside the oil filler cap screw on type .

Hi I made everything myself so no idear what it would cost to get it done by someone. I'm thinking about building a couple manifold kits to sell but that will be in the future & have no idear on price yet.The turbo has to be be rebuilt with a carbon seal fitted .I got the T25 for $200 & a carbon seal rebuild kit for $100 .I rebuilt it myself quite easy but maybe a bit too much if you haven't done anything like that before. T25 has internal waste gate up grade water pump ? why? oil is taken from oil filter houseing .I drilled & tapped a new port into my houseing but you can just T into the oil pressure sensor

Yep I know the timing needs to be retarded as the boost increases .I have another idea for that just at this stage with std compression it has to be retarded a far bit to stop detonation & the bit of playing I have done so far indicated the hp increased a far bit with a little more advance .First I want to stop the detonation hopefully to the point that I can advance to where the hp drops without detonation .Then put it on a dyno find the correct advance/retard curve & go from there .To retard it I'm going to make /modify the vac advance to retard from boost reference .Being a fitter & Turner I can turn up a new bell (will need need to be very small in diameter 15psi will have a lot of force may even be just a small shaft & o ring seal )for the advance give it enough travel & change springs to suit. A bit of mucking around but it is easy to work out how much travel is needed to retard 1deg. Then say it is 1mm per deg to be able to retard 20 deg’s I’ll need 20mm travel & the correct diaphragm & spring to give 1mm travel for every psi .Sounds simple but I know it will be a nightmare getting the right spring to do what I want . The rate of retarding you suggest above is right on the mark and I’ll be aiming at those figures. Anyway there is a lot of work there to do as I get things sorted I'll post up the results. Thanks for the input Cheers Steve

Hi Yeah I have thought about useing one but I want to try an get full mechanical timing at boost also .The injection setup is cheap nothing to loose maybe lots to gain . Cheers Steve

Hi I haven't had it on a dyno yet still want to do some improvements The webber will be going on and addapting the ke70 aircleaner to fit it so it will still look stock.But I can't get over how well it goes with the little asian .I thought I would be down on boost but it flows enough to make 15psi.I looked into brodies efi setup back in 2008 (my name says I'm new here but I've been on rolla club for years just don't post :D )I got all the info from him about it as I planned back then to use that setup with a blow through .But I then went supercharged & put the turbo on hold till now. The next step at this stage is the water injection only real option with draw through (can't use an intercooler) so I can up the timing which should make a bit more of an improvement over the carbie.It goes so much harder with only a couple more deg's added but then the pinnging starts. Cheers Steve

Thanks Justin The std pump was fine with the dellorto it flowed enough and never leaned out. I used the corolla pump that has a return to tank bult in so there wasnt too much pressure on the needle & seat but I did restrict the return fitting on the pump to give me a bit more pressure than std. With the draw through you don't have to worry about boost pressure affecting the carb like in blow through just have to make sure it flows enough . Also just added a couple new picks one of the diff I just fitted & the turbo now that it is wraped Cheers Steve

No never found out who did it that was about 6 years ago .Only thing I was thankfull for was that they didn't take the mx13 corona mk2 that was beside it which has been in the family since new . The turbo is a garret t25

It was I tried to ues as much as i could from the old car. I even got the origional white on black QLD number plate number as personalised plates means nothing to anyone else :dance:

Yeah the first pick is the shell that is now the red sprinter .Then the ke15 that was burnt out .I was the the third owner to that when I got it I was still an apprentice 19 years old it my 2nd car i'm now 44 it was a very very good origional sl sprinter. other picks are the engine modes I've done

Thought it was about time to put up a Rides post about my current ke15.I started rebuilding it in 2008 .I first got the shell as a spare parts car for the ke15 I had at the time. I never planned on rebuilding it, as it was not that great a shell .It was only ever going to be a parts car for panels etc should something unthinkable happen to my good one. Well the unthinkable happened one night while I was out my house was broken into & my ke15 was used as the getaway car .Latter to be found as a burn out shell in the local pine forest .A few years passed till I finally got the bug again to drive a ke15 .So I decided to rebuild the old shell I had sitting there for parts .I used the front guards / motor and whatever else I salvaged from the burnt out wreck .I finished it with the intention of useing it as an everyday car not an original to go to car shows .(I got one for that half way through this rebuild + another good one all after I started this rebuild) So it gets some modifications. Brakes are ke35 discs with a duel circuit gallant master cyl k50 gearbox while it lasts First motor setup was the original 4k from the burnt car with a sc14 & 45 dellorto draw through setup. Worked well ran 10psi boost was fun to drive could switch off the blower & still worked well .I made a second set of pulleys for 15psi but didn’t get the results I was hoping for. It went harder but I didn’t put enough time into turning it & always planned on water injection so the timing could come back up a bit .In the end I just drove it till I found a crack in the manifold so it was time for my second idea to be used. 5k turbo a bit different to what I have seen posted here. I liked the look of the blower but it stood out too much when the bonnet was opened (no mod plate ) I wanted the turbo to sit down low and use a draw through so from the top just looks like a std carbie setup .I’m useing a T25 carbon sealed turbo just the std Asian carbie at the moment but I made the manifold to use a 34adm Webber .Currently running 15psi boost it performs a far bit better than the 4k did supercharged . But the blower had it all down low where this is from 3000rpm up. Just fitted a new slightly bigger diff it’s a Borg Warner from a corona st141.Only used it as I had it sitting there and was a 4.11 ratio + I knew it was in good condition .I had to cut it down 120mm & change the stud Patten to 4x110 & change the mounts . A far bit of work for only a slightly better diff .I’m going to do another one 28 spline Borg Warner 78 cheap & strong. The next mod is to install water injection so I can increase the timing & boost without it pinging. Also put a 34ADM Webber on but at the moment I can’t get over how well it goes with only the std Asian I always planned to build a motor just for boost (5k with 4k head )but want to try the water injection first as i know a k will handle a lot of boost as it is but only when it has it’s timing backed right off + the water injection works so well with old school boosted 6&:dance: .Then it is just a bolt on/off setup to any k motor .I have set it up with an exhaust flange so I can bolt up the turbo or the std carbie & extractors in a couple of hours. Well there is a lot of words so now for some picks